Code 1261!!?!

[Dutty30]

Hey all,

I went out to do a stomp test just to see if anything new was going on with my car and came up with a code 1261. The chart says this is a Fuel Pump Relay issue.

I'm not sure what to do about this. Could a bad Fuel Pump Relay be a source of rough idle/surging and a bumbling sound when cruising in gear?( I can explain that a little further if need be) I thought that I had a vacuum leak since when I replaced my O2 sensor my car started to surge at idle and have these other problems. Could I have finally found my problem?

How should I go about this? Not really sure what to do since the car does run well after its warmed up. Is this OK to drive on till say, thursday?


Thanks for the help

[strad]

Be careful with your use of the term FPR. FPR usually means fuel pressure regulator, which is a different thing than Fuel pump relay (what the code actually refers to). You need to test your fuel pump relay for proper function.

And yes, a bad relay can definitely cause poor running.

edit: the problem could be caused by a faulty dme as well, so when I say test the relay you need to also test all its wiring and the output from the dme.

[Dutty30]

Ok so that would involve the use of checking the connections with a voltmeter correct? I can do this once I get home on thursday.

What does DME stand for?

[thejlevie]

To understand what that code might mean you need to know that the DME turns the relay on by grounding the coil. That code will be set if the current through the relay coil is below some threshold when the DME has commanded the relay on.

That means that the cause of the code can be a bad relay coil, a problem with the coil supply voltage, a problem with the wire from the DME to the relay, bad contacts in the relay socket, or a problem within the DME.

Power to the relay is provided by the ignition switch via C101. The ground for the coil is on DME pin 3.

Your idle problems are unlikely to be caused by this if you don't have issues at speed. The most probable cause of idle issues is intake leaks, perhaps compounded by a malfunctioning ICV.

[strad]

Ok so that would involve the use of checking the connections with a voltmeter correct? I can do this once I get home on thursday.

What does DME stand for?

DME = ECU, the computer that controls the fuel injection system. It's located above the glovebox.

[Dutty30]

Ok I've heard it a bunch before I've just never known what it meant. I do have an issue where at high RPM (5000-6000) the power will cut out very fast and my car will stutter. Could that be something in the fuel system? I always attributed that to vacuum leakage as well.

[thejlevie]

That could be a fuel issue. It won't be an intake leak as a leak big enough to cause that would stall out the engine at idle. Since this happens only at the top of the rpm band, I'd suspect a clogged filter, bad FPR, or a weak fuel pump.

[Dutty30]

I forgot to mention that this doesn't happen EVERY time. There have been times that I've been able to reach redline and it was flawless.

The relay is only about 10 dollars correct? If I replace it, the code should go away IIRC. Or would I need to disconnect the battery to clear the ECU's storage of fault codes.

[thejlevie]

If I replace it, the code should go away IIRC. Or would I need to disconnect the battery to clear the ECU's storage of fault codes.

If the relay is the cause of the code, which is pretty unlikely, it still won't go away on its own. You'll have to remove power from the DME to clear the code.

You might get lucky, but every time I've seen this code before, the cause was something other than the relay.

[Dutty30]

Ok, and the something others could be any of the assortment that you listed earlier. I suppose I will set off to work looking for the problem. Disconnecting the battery will suffice to clear the DME of its fault codes correct?

[boricua51]

Code 1261 is Fuel Pump Relay.

[Dutty30]

Thanks Boricua, I established that in my first post.

[tdennehy]

I absolutely agree that the 1261 never actually is the fuel pump relay. I have a problem where my 1990 e30 vert will stall, or "buck" or "lurch" and the CEL will blink on and she will stall. Usually ONLY within the first 15 minutes after starting the car. After that, smooth sailing. I swapped out the DME with my spare, and problem still exists after the computer learned the car. Leading me to believe it is a sensor. If it was a wire, I would think the problem would be immediate. I replaced the relay. I cleaned the original relay inside and out. Contacts, etc.

Problem still exists.

If y'all have any suggestions, please send them my way. It's annoying to have my car act up like this. Nobody wants to go start their e30 and let is sit in the driveway for 15 minutes before driving.

If the relay is the cause of the code, which is pretty unlikely, it still won't go away on its own. You'll have to remove power from the DME to clear the code.

You might get lucky, but every time I've seen this code before, the cause was something other than the relay.

[pgreene91i325]

bump.

Long time lurker and (luckily) first time poster.
the 1991 325i automatic has been running like a dream since I got it. Previous owner took good care of it seemingly. Ran great yesterday, ran great this morning.
That's until I parked for about 2 minutes. Got back in, couldn't quite start the engine, or would idle in park at ~2500rpm.
that classic code 1261 shows up.

-replaced fuse 11
-my relays are relatively recent so it feels like they might not be the culprit?
-due to high RPM at idle I removed, cleaned and re-installed the ICV valve and its hose, thinking that might have something to do with it.
-the initial ignition issues had me concerned about battery and alternator but that all seems fine.

once it's up and running, if the car is in park it'll be steady around 2500rpm as mentioned. back down to just above 1000rpm once driving.
One new weird quirk now is if the foot is off the gas, instead of lurching forward at 15/20km/h... it'll go steady 45km/h / ~30mph

Everything under the hood looks good, the only truly dodgy/ old looking part of the car is the Fuel Pump, under the back seats.
Is it worth it to try to replace that?

really would appreciate any pointers here.

[superj]

High idle like that most likely is a vacuum leak. Maaaayyybbe the throttle cable is sticking or the pedal has something holding it down a bit but you would notice that.

Check the usual stuff like hoses and such but also check the oil filler cap as it has a gasket and also the tube that drains oil from the head to the pan, under the intake, has gaskets too

[pgreene91i325]

thanks superj,

tried tightening every gasket and hose clamp I could find but it persists.
the next move will be to run a more full-on vacuum leak test tomorrow and take it from there.
thanks

think I'm going to get a better fuel pump just in case as well.

[superj]

Ok.