First Cold Starts - New Problems

[AshamedGorilla]

So yesterday and today were the first times I have started my car in <40 degree weather. Two things happened:

1. Yesterday, when I started the car it was about 32 degrees and snowing. Now usually it will kick up to 1500-2000RPM then return to a normal idle right away, but this time it went up to 2500RPM and dropped, then bounced between 400 and 800rpm, almost like it wasn't getting enough fuel. It finally went to a normal idle after 5 seconds.
I'm thinking it's a bad ICV. Is this correct?
If it matter, later that day when I started and the engine was worm it started normally.

2. This morning when I started the car it was ~36 degrees and sunny. It started fine (revved a little high at first, but returned to a normal idle) but this time I had a CHECK light. Check coolant level. It went away after ~15 seconds, then I drove off, no problems. I kept an eye on the temp gauge but it stayed normal.
Should I just top off the coolant?

My questions are: could these be related? and, am I right about the ICV or is it something worse?

[goldieK]

in cold weather, the float that sends coolant level can stick at times. I'd check the level to be safe, but it may be ok.

[Ckyo5]

Check your coolant level when its cold. If its topped off, then your sensor is probably going bad.

My coolant warning starting coming on when it got cold. I tapped the sensor inside the tank with a rod and it stopped giving me faulty warnings

[AshamedGorilla]

in cold weather, the float that sends coolant level can stick at times. I'd check the level to be safe, but it may be ok.

Check your coolant level when its cold. If its topped off, then your sensor is probably going bad.

My coolant warning starting coming on when it got cold. I tapped the sensor inside the tank with a rod and it stopped giving me faulty warnings

The check went away after a few seconds, so it probably is a bad sensor/float, but I will check the level when I get a chance just to be sure.

Any input on the idle problem? Is it the ICV?

[jmo69]

Take the ICV out and clean it, on my M52 it was a PITA, but doable. Lots of disassembly in tight quarters. You'll want to do it in a heated area, cold fingers and small parts don't mix. LOL

[AshamedGorilla]

Take the ICV out and clean it, on my M52 it was a PITA, but doable. Lots of disassembly in tight quarters. You'll want to do it in a heated area, cold fingers and small parts don't mix. LOL

Sounds fun
Do you think that's the problem?
What should I clean it with/in. Alcohol? De-greaser?

[jmo69]

When I did mine I used a degraser that evaporated and followed with WD-40. A brake cleaner would probably work. Mine wasn't as dirty as some, no carbon or anything, shake it to make sure the flapper is free.

[AshamedGorilla]

When I did mine I used a degraser that evaporated and followed with WD-40. A brake cleaner would probably work. Mine wasn't as dirty as some, no carbon or anything, shake it to make sure the flapper is free.

Hopefully I'll have a chance to do this over break, but what happens if it gets worse and say, the ICV fails?

[jmo69]

If it has failed you'll have to replace it. I think they are supposed to buzz if the ignition is on and the engine is not running, do a search on that point, I'm not sure about it. e-bay has them relatively cheap, some Volvos used the same one.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=BMW...l+valve&_rdc=1