can someone tell me how much better the IDQ V.3 is than the V.2? I'm on a tight budget and I just wanna know if you guys think there is a noticeable/significant difference between the 2.
thx alot
"A man without religon is like a fish without a bicycle."
How much better? That's entirely unquantifiable in my opinion, but instead of skirting around semantics, let's just say it is much better, maybe even much much better.
Thank you and great write up, thanks for taking the time.
For people like me though who are basically tone deaf having the best is not necessary and do not want to drop 1k plus into stereo equipment (least not yet )
I drive topless as much as I can when the weather permits in seattle so I am looking for upgrading my speakers so I can crank the Rock. Mine are blown in front and have to use my rears.
I was thinking of putting in some MA Audio's
MA Audio HK50C
5-1/4" 2-Way Component System
Power Handling:
- Peak: 160 watts per set / 80 watts each side
- RMS: 80 watts per set / 40 watts each side
Mica cone woofer
PEI Titanium tweeter
Bi-ampable crossover (dual amplifier inputs)
Balanced 12dB crossover
4 ohms impedance
2-Layer high temp kapton voice coil
10oz. Strontium magnet for optimum performance
Top-mount depth: 2-3/4"
2-year Manufacturer's Warranty
Speaker Size5-1/4"Design2-way Component SystemTweeter DesignN/ATweeter CompositionPEI TitaniumWoofer CompositionMica Injected Polypropylene (MIPP)Woofer SurroundButyl RubberPeak Power Handling80 wattsRMS Power Handling40 wattsSensitivity91.1 dBFrequency Response35 - 25000 HzImpedance (per voice coil)4 ohmsTop Mount Depth2-3/4"
The price is what is attractive about them plus they have gotten good reviews
$44.99
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...dio+HK50C.html
I do hear complaints about the size of the cross overs so it could be a drawback
Smile Make My Day
Anything is going to be better than the stock system. If you've listened to those speakers, and they sound good to you, then go for them. Your only other requirement is going to be an amplifier; you'll need good clean power to drive your speakers loud enough to break through the wind noise, but you won't need monster power either.
Great thread---should be stickied!
Wanted to hear your advice on my plans.
99 M3 Coupe--with h/k setup.
Plan to do BSW Stage I fronts only
Also have JL stealth boxes that I will replace with better subs
Need an amp to power this...
could this work? MB Quart Discus DSC 480 80x4 rms at 4ohm? Price is $95
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...im/diymacom-20
Goal is to replace system with decent quality, without comprimising space.
Can I run 1 4 channel amp for both the fronts and 2 subs or am I going to need 2 amps?
Last edited by nmehta211; 06-20-2010 at 05:04 PM.
Yes you can, but the subs shoul be either single voice coil 2ohms, or dual 4ohm - ie the subs wired together will need to present a 4ohm load to the amplifier.
The one problem is you'll only get about 150rms to each subwoofer in this configuration (working on a 75rms x 4 amp). You'd be better picking up a 2channel and a mono but depends on budget. There are grunty 4ch amps, like the older Alpine MRV-F545 which would be sufficient for a pair of subs and front speakers (125rms x2 + 500rms x1).
Mutual Admiration SocietyFounding member
I have an e36 vert and I am on a tight bugdet. I replaced the factory speakers with BSW Stage 1. My HU was replaced with a Pioneer HU with a 6 disc changer in the trunk. Even though I changed the speakers, it still sounds like crap. I dont know if the factory amp was bypassed when the HU was replaced. Whats the easiest way to find this out and what would be a better choice of amp?
Best Regards,
Mr E36!
I picked up a set of Hybrid Audio Clarus C51. Should I use their black tweeter dome in my dove interior or does the tweeter fit well in the stock ring and stock cover?
Also...do I leave door mid-range in door and simply disconnect- or pull it out and glue a black piece of cardboard, etc. behind it? I would like to be selling whole system (C33 is already posted): C33+HK amp and all speakers. If I do what should I ask for whole system?
I put the tweeter behind the larger of the 2 speaker grills in the door. Fit very well.
^ thanks!
This is what I've accumulated (only CD43 installed so far):
BMW CD43 head unit
PPI Art series A600.2
PPI Art series 2300M surfboard amp (2 unbridgeable mono source
Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus C51-2 two way component speaker system
I still have to round up sub. I’m leaning toward one 12” in sealed box. Then remove BMW deck speakers to port into cabin. What do you think about an Image Dynamics IDQ12v3.4?
Last edited by blak blur; 07-05-2010 at 10:02 PM.
I think that sub is incredible. Get it.
OK. I've donned my flame suit, guys.
I decided after getting into the statosphere budgetwise to pick up a JL 12W3v3-4 for $159 shipped.
I have a coupe with no ski-pass. I'm heading in the direction of a sealed box and removing deck speakers.
Opinions?
like the OP said, the best sound you can achieve from the sub would be firing it into the cabin. You can cut away the sheet metal and then make a mounting since you don't have a ski pass.
I've junked the stock system on my e36 and I'm slowly putting together a new audio setup. I bought a pair of MDF adapters for the rear shelf and will mount 6x9's. I've heard a few systems that rely on the 6x9 for bass and its all I would need. I don't need thump in the trunk. A simple 100-220w amp and then a decent set of speakers up front is all I'm going for. So far, the most difficult choice is a new headunit since I have the stock cassette deck. CD43 would look best but for the money you can also buy a decent aftermarket uint with an iPod hookup ready to go. Only issue with aftermarket decks is finding one that has amber backlighting or at least the ability to adjust the color to match closely to amber.
I exchanged the JL 12W3v3-4 for a JL 10W6v2 4 ohm. As you can see I didn't feel good about the direction I was going.
FOLLOWING YOUR ADVICE - THANKS (and my budget, and my wife's threshhold for my new hobby
WANT TO PUT ID8 IN SKI PASS - IS THERE A PREFAB BOX THAT PRETTY MUCH FITS IN THERE? (don't have much spare time/skills/tools for building)
ALSO WHAT SUB AMP?
Have just ordered:
- Eclipse cd3200 $125
- Boston Acoustic SX60 components $138
Have OEM 6 speaker NO AMP - that is std on 1995 vert
I realize this a bsw sponsored forum
Pros and Cons between my own ID8 install and the bsw drop in unit.
Just want musical sound / rock etc, my personal consumption
My custom system probably $350 + and some headaches and unknowns
BSW $500. May will be worth it but how is the sound relative ID8 in the skipass?
Does the armrest cover the bsw? or only when not in use?
Chances of getting a used bsw, open box?
Any annual / holiday sales / forum discounts?
Many thanks
Last edited by duffbeerracing; 09-10-2010 at 04:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I have an E36 coupe, ergo no ski pass, and have been making installation decisions, but I'm a little baffled here (no pun intended). Exactly where is this sheet metal that's being referred to? I have two fold down seats and there's obviously no cutting through them; then there's a sort of dividing post between the seats that can't be any more than 6" or so. That leaves the rear deck, which I hope is what's being referred to.
Last edited by Plynth222; 09-17-2010 at 09:20 PM.
Ski pass is an option if you don't have filing seats. With folding seats you can either fold one down (not ideal in my opinion) or you can port the rear deck by removing speakers or cutting an additional hole.
I went with an infinite baffle set up (JL stealthboxes) and I am very happy. I do not miss the rear fill at all... There are several for sale on the classifieds and eBay right now... You can also make mdf adapters to do the same thing. I saw someone On here do it with 12s...
Thanks for your thoughts. From everything I've read, IB is an excellent option, depending on what you're looking for as well as what you're willing, or not willing, to do to your car.
I called the IDQ home office yesterday and found myself on speakerphone with, what appeared to be, some of their designers. Their strong recommendation was to aim the speaker into the cabin, which was no surprise. With specific regards to the "no ski pass issue," their suggestion was to cut a hole in the center of the deck and go IB OR install the speaker and build a ported or sealed box around it. Your JL seems to have accomplished this without the cutting. I will do a search to find those using mdf adapters for similar achievement.
Last edited by Plynth222; 09-18-2010 at 03:39 PM.
after reading and re-reading this thread I've decided to do a complete audio renovation in my e36. I recently bought a Pioneer AVIC N3 and decided that I might as well replace all the speakers and get a quality amp. I was planning on running 6x9s in the rear but I ended up selling the adapters since I didn't forsee myself actually installed them. Now I have a great headunit I need to install and figured I might as well have some sound quality to match. Not to mention the PO of the car hacked up the wiring to the trunk so I only have inputs for a subwoofer. Can't find the stock wiring from the shelf speakers, so time to ditch the crap and start over
Another option for front speakers if you have the money are morels. they make a 3 way component set specifically for the e36. It isn't cheap but is the easiest fit. Another option is Hertz HSK-163. they have good speakers but take a little work to install
After reading this over, I purchased and installed the CD43 unit. What a difference! It looks great in the dash, too!
Next up - speakers!
This is a great post. Thanks for keeping it around!
Previous owner of my "new" e36 vert replaced the tape deck and put in a new head unit. I blew the stock speakers in the back and have some replacements coming on the way. (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...am-X-SC42.html)
I have a Sony Xplod 404eqx amplifier from an old system I had 12 years ago; I know this is better than the stock but I wonder about putting a new amp in.
Re: amp install, assuming there is a factor amp behind the rear passenger seat, does anyone have any recommendations on how i might be able to preserve the factory wiring? I'd like to use the existing wiring and avoid running my own speaker lines and RCAs; was planning on using high level inputs into the amp, though I guess the 8591 wire harness would work fine.
Re: the CD43 - I'm surprised how expensive these are on ebay. Anyone have any luck with a junkyard or online part discounter?
I second the sticker shock on the CD43 on ebay. wtf.
not to mention the 'rebadge' thing.
Last edited by sluggo; 01-23-2012 at 11:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I purchased mine from a fellow who replaced the HU in his Z3. He sold it to me for a nominal amount. I think $150
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