Both 5.0 & T5 swap threads I was following seem to have disappeared or been "towed" - can anyone explain?
Any updates from Lawson or Matt65?
Gone but not forgotten:
'96 328i, '95 325ic, '98 M3, '92 325is, '93 318is, '93 325i, '85 325e, '88 325ic, '85 325e, '87 535is, '85 528e
I would like to know why they were removed also?
Last edited by E36 328is; 11-30-2009 at 01:42 PM.
It was "some other events" that led to towing. I'll let the OP of those speak up if he wishes. . . .
I hope to start mine soon . . . I'm still looking for a T5
-=PJ
Strike Zero's Garage
==================================================
2006 SCR-SCCA Street Mod Champion
1982 Toyota Corolla
1988 Volvo 780
1993 BMW 318is: Gas Sipper
1993 BMW 325is => 350is: Track Rat
1994 BMW 530i + 5spd
1997 BMW 740i: Hwy Killah!!
1998 Honda VFR800FI: Gear Driven Cam Goodness
2000 Dodge Dakota: V8 + 5spd = Smokey Fun
2000 Lincoln LS V6 5spd
2004 Pontiac GTO - RIP
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
==================================================
"If not under warranty, live with it, or bend over and grab ankles."
Moderators, I have tried to be very careful to not post links or solicit - I'd like to just contribute information. I'd like to recreate the information lost with Lawson's thread in another thread. We covered a bunch of stuff: Shifter information, horsepower levels, etc. Maybe we can find one that's not locked and keep going?
yeah, that was a little silly.
there was a ton of awesome information in that thread.
it should be brought back.
2005 Volvo XC90 V8
1995 525iM oxford green w/ silver grey interior
2003 Dodge Ram CTD QC HO w/ 6spd
1985 Jeep CJ7 rock crawler w/ Ford 5.8l SEFI
Maybe have the guys doing the swap continue with their write ups for your site? I think most know what it is by now.
I now understand where there are coming from. Though one has to take into consideration that there is only one company that has the parts available. So that companies name is bound to come up numerous times over the course of the build. Hopefully we can salvage the info.
I'd like to see that info come back too, it's a swap I'm somewhat interested in...
Hello, sorry I had to pull the thread but just before the holidays I had some creep from forums/online find my house and ask to see my car in person. I had no idea who this person was and how he got my contact info so right now I don't think having a build thread is not for me with people like this around.
Sorry to hear that. Any way the mods could put the thread up but take out your posts? There was so much good info in there.
Wow that took some balls for that person to do that! Would of been time to show off the glock at that point!
WOW!! I cant believe that someone would do that, i mean as easy as it is to contact you and ask to see the car if you were interested.
that's totally understandable.
2005 Volvo XC90 V8
1995 525iM oxford green w/ silver grey interior
2003 Dodge Ram CTD QC HO w/ 6spd
1985 Jeep CJ7 rock crawler w/ Ford 5.8l SEFI
I emailed Monday about becoming a supporting vendor but no answer yet. Until then, maybe I can contribute info with no solicitation at all:
There are a couple exhaust options for putting the 5.0 in the E36, from cheapest and simplest to most expensive and complicated:
1. Use 2 passenger side headers, so that the drivers side points forward. It is cheapest to simply pay an exhaust guy to connect the headers to the 325/328/M3 exhaust. This works best if you're going dual exhaust
2. Use any set of Mustang shorty headers turned forward, connect at the front with a Y-pipe and single pipe back. This is what I did with 3" all the way.
3. Build a 3-joint steering shaft and use a set of block huggers or other headers that tuck in tight and turn down. I did not experiment with this option because it drives the cost up.
4. The Ebay DVD guy offset the motor, used 351w swap headers, and Vorshlag steering shaft. He had to grind on the block, the steering shaft, and dent the header to miss the shaft.
5. The 318ti guy used smog-legal stock Fox Mustang headers. His motor is centered. He moved the steering column over an 1", did the 3-joint steering shaft, and cut and welded the frame.
As requested in the last thread, here is a video of the shifter in my car. The shift rod is offset to the rear 3" and sticks up about 6".
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HoJDr8lfuI[/ame]
PJ documented that it is easy to drop the weight of the E36 down to 2600 lbs. On the 5.0, a head/cam/intake combo will get you up around 250-350 rwhp. The best heads seem to be AFR 165, aluminum.
The driveshaft is simple, you take the T5 yoke and the back half of the BMW shaft to a driveshaft guy and he will make one.
5.0 in the E30 is in progress, here are some pictures:
Recipe for ~280 whp & ~300wtq
- GT40 or GT40P Iron Heads
- Freshen the head
- Valve seals
- Valve springs (Trickflows will handle any of the cams listed below)
- Rebuilt stock shortblock (ring, bearings, seals, and freeze plugs)
- Exploder Intake (GT40 style 96-98)
- 24lb injectors
- A9L ECU
- 76-80 mm MAF
- CAM
- Stock cam degreed
- Some people go advanced 4* or retard 4* (Make sure you contact a cam specialist)
- E303
- F303 - Good cam for boost
- Trickflow TF1
- Stock distributor
This combo will give you an awesome street monster with a power/torque band of 1500-5500 rpm all built for the nice price of $1500
For 300+ whp, start looking at AFRs, Trickflows, and Eddys. Dropping on set of Eddys on the above combo bumps that whp number to ~325, matched with a B303 cam, you should be looking at a motor that pulls from ~1800-6500rpm. Don't forget to get your lower Exploder intake ported by TMOSS!!
For you boost junkies . . .the above combo (with F303 cam)+ 42lb injectors + MP70 or 60-1 = Block splitting power and torque. (450-500+whp & ~500wtq)
There are some guys using HX35 @ 9lbs and putting a full weight foxbody into the 11s @ ~125ish
That's all I can remember right now . . .
EDIT:
I added a FMS Cam chart by one of the CAM gurus . . . some people think they suck. . . but they perform and are CHEAP . . . like $100-$150 cheap . . .
EEC Tuning
More on EEC Tuning
Last edited by PJ325i; 12-07-2009 at 09:27 PM.
-=PJ
Strike Zero's Garage
==================================================
2006 SCR-SCCA Street Mod Champion
1982 Toyota Corolla
1988 Volvo 780
1993 BMW 318is: Gas Sipper
1993 BMW 325is => 350is: Track Rat
1994 BMW 530i + 5spd
1997 BMW 740i: Hwy Killah!!
1998 Honda VFR800FI: Gear Driven Cam Goodness
2000 Dodge Dakota: V8 + 5spd = Smokey Fun
2000 Lincoln LS V6 5spd
2004 Pontiac GTO - RIP
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
==================================================
"If not under warranty, live with it, or bend over and grab ankles."
thanx for the info. i wonder if there is enough space for the ebay turbo kit from one performance will fit. if so one can have a monster on their hands.
Another header option might be the Ranger v8 swap header. The frame and steering shaft on a Ranger makes for a tight fit also.
Wow I'm gonna need to budget for all the rubber I'll need to replace after this swap too.
2005 Volvo XC90 V8
1995 525iM oxford green w/ silver grey interior
2003 Dodge Ram CTD QC HO w/ 6spd
1985 Jeep CJ7 rock crawler w/ Ford 5.8l SEFI
Yup there's plenty of space for one of the Ebay Turbo Kits........
just make sure you have a big enough garbage can for the turbo kit to fit into.
I said once before to someone else. Get the engine in the car first and running. Then once the power gets to be boring start looking at upgrading. Sure adding heads, cam, and intake is worth it off the bat. Adding a turbo kit isn't the simplest thing and most Ebay Kits have problems fitting in Mustangs (along with the laundry list of other problems they have, namely reliability), so it's best to just focus on getting the engine in, running, and driving the car. Then when it gets boring look at boosting it. It's way too easy to get in over your head and overwhelmed when parts are so cheap for the 5.0. Next thing you know you have a garage full of quadruplicate parts because you kept finding good deals that cost you thousands and are only worth hundreds when you sell them.
Cliff notes, get car running first, then turbo later. And remember, you can bolt on a set of heads, you can bolt on a supercharger, you ADD a turbo to your car.
Edit:
I'm assuming going turbo on this platform isn't going to be a cheap process (does anyone have a v8 turbo 3 series car?) because of the buttloads of torque that monster is going to make. Going turbo is not cheap in a Mustang, and Mustangs are cheap. I'm assuming it's going to be much worse in a 3 series BMW because the supporting driveline is much more expensive than in a Ford. And what's the point in having 500 HP and no way to use it.
Last edited by Chuck Woolery; 12-06-2009 at 08:23 PM.
The threads are in holding because the member said he posted some information in the threads that lead to some other member showing up at his home. It freaked him out so the threads were "suspended" until I can go through them and find what needs to be removed so he is no longer a stalking victim.
Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by hundreds of engineers that get paid thousands of dollars for something you bought at Pep Boys because your buddy who doesn't have a job told you it was 'better'?!?
has anyone even completed this swap?
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