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Thread: Oil Filter Housing Seal Replacement (528i)

  1. #1
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    Oil Filter Housing Seal Replacement (528i)

    The first DIY doesn't mention disconnecting the battery's positive terminal, but the second DIY makes a big point about it. Better safe than sorry.

    DIY-oil filter housing seal

    Oil Filter Housing Leak Repair
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 11-15-2009 at 09:24 PM.

  2. #2
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    Thanks James,

    People need to know that fixing the O.F. Housing Rubber Gasket is only one issue.

    Another separate issue is the 2 Aluminum Plugs on the back side of the O.F. Housing can leak too. Here is the thread on it:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1341719

    -------
    Anyone has a used (Leaking Recessed Plugs is fine) M52 Oil Filter Housing laying around so I can use as a guinea pig? I will return it in repaired condition (if the guinea pig is still alive LOL)

    Here is what I am getting at, for those familiar with NPT (National Pipe Thread Tapered Thread) concept, it is basically Tapered Thread for good sealing.

    The 3/4" Blue Anodized NPT Plug I just received has the standard NPT dimensions:
    - Inner Groove: 24.80 mm
    - Outer Thread Tips: 26.67 mm

    Therefore, on the O.F. Housing Side, the bore size must be around or less than < 24-25 mm, this way I have room to tap the threads.

    Again, I NEED A GUINEA PIG please!


  3. #3
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    cnn,

    I saw that thread and your possible solution. Thanks for adding that.

  4. #4
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    I just posted the Oil Filter Housing OVERHAUL: from O.F. Housing Seal to the Repair of leaking "Freeze Plugs":
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1350178

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesdc4 View Post
    The first DIY doesn't mention disconnecting the battery's positive terminal, but the second DIY makes a big point about it. Better safe than sorry.

    DIY-oil filter housing seal

    Oil Filter Housing Leak Repair


    Why do people say disconnect only possitive terminal..

    Dont' you need to take the negative off first? Else, well... die?

  6. #6
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    is this the same procedure for the v8?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcatank View Post
    Why do people say disconnect only possitive terminal..

    Dont' you need to take the negative off first? Else, well... die?
    You have to disconnect the positive cable from the alternator to reach the housing.

  8. #8
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    Post

    Quote Originally Posted by shlalaw View Post
    You have to disconnect the positive cable from the alternator to reach the housing.
    I was just going to disconnect the negative and positive from the trunk first before I start anything.....

    Tons of work to do next week.

    - Oil Filter Housing seal
    - Spark plugs + boots
    - Valve Cover Gasket
    - Tire rotation <-- Hardest

  9. #9
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    The reason is the alternator wire is still "hot" until disconnected at the battery. Good luck on the oil filter housing seal. Did mine last weekend. Be sure and follow the tip to write down where the six housing bolts go. They are of different lengths. And don't mistake the idler pulley for the tensioner. I did at first. A PITA, but do-able.
    Last edited by shlalaw; 07-11-2011 at 08:02 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shlalaw View Post
    The reason is the alternator wire is still "hot" until disconnected at the battery. Good luck on the oil filter housing seal. Did mine last weekend. Be sure and follow the tip to write down where the six housing bolts go. They are of different lengths. And don't mistake the idler pulley for the tensioner. I did at first. A PITA, but do-able.

    Did you have to use a T50?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcatank View Post
    Did you have to use a T50?
    Eventually. Before I wised up, I was cranking on the the bolt on the idler pulley. Wouldn't move the belt a damn bit!

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