BAE Turbo Help Needed

[BAEE21Turbo]

Hello all,

I been trying to go through the theads to get as much info as I could about what is available as for replacement parts for the BAE Turbo.

I just picked up a nice 1980 E21 from a forum member here, which by the looks of it needs a Turbo rebuild. Until I get it off and apart I do not know the extent, hopefully it is just the seals which I can work around.

From all info, RayJay rebuild kits are no longer available, there was talk of someone planning on re starting the parts. Has there been any updates on this that you know of??

I have no issues going with a nice low aspect ratio t3/t4 if needed and make a adapter plate, but I rather keep things as they came if at all possible.

Also, for the guru's that are out there. What did this kit come with. I know Turbo, intake manifold. exhaust manifold ect. But did they come with a cam shaft for the turbo, bigger T-Body? Any modules to increase fuel under boost ect.

On another topic, these kits have been around for a while and must have been tinkered with to get more power. I have built a couple VW Turbos that used K-Jet, and know a few tricks, eg. Volvo 240 Turbo Fuel Distributor ( Bigger flap than the stock E21 ), Audi Turbo Warm up regulator & Cold start valve. Any ideas??

Thanks for the help,

- Karl

PS: There was someone who had a pdf for the installation manual, I would like a copy please

[DrewDude320i]

There are still two companies in the US that might have rebuild components for them, but as the RayJay is severely outdated, I would take this as an opportunity to upgrade.

No cam, no throttle body, no means of enriching under boost or retarding timing under boost. It was very basic, and meant for low pressure use only.

The Volvo parts work here as well. You can read about it in the FAQ section.

[BAEE21Turbo]

Thanks DrewDude320i, I've been reading a bunch of your posts, gives me some good information and a basis to start with.

Looks like a t3/t4 is in the future, but I would like to explore all options, if you have the info on those 2 companies that would be great. I am hoping it is just a seal kit, will not know until it is all apart.

Luckily I have a full machine shop at my disposal, so making a bracket is not a problem for a replacement turbo. But I would just like to get the vehicle running good, work out any other issues before going head long into it. But wait it is a project car...

Thanks for all your help

[BAEE21Turbo]

Hello all again,

Ok I have to pick the BAE guys brains again.

Well I started her up for the first time since I bought her, I wanted to see what exactly is going on. The previous owner said that their was white smoke coming from the exhaust as well as from the engine compartment.

After 2 attempts she fired up, wasn't really happy 'til warm due to the camshaft that's in there. It is a little lumpy cam, until I pull it I don't know what it is, only going to assume it is a Schrick due to the fact that the North American Distributor was in Vancouver Canada and that is where the car is from.

Do you know if Schrick put part # on their cams?

So I take her down the back alley try and get some boost going. Shift at 3500, no boost. Took her for another drive this time to 5500. At about 3800 the boost kicks hard and a whine from the turbo, before i know it I was at 6200.

Is this typical for the Rayjay, that much lagg?? It is a big turbo for a 1.8L

Also, there was white smoke coming from the breather in the valve cover. Someone put a stupid catch can system which didnt vent so it held the pressure, I got rid of that and put a breather that your would find on a chev 350 for now. So my mechanic thinks its the valve stem seals which needs replacing. Anyone else have the same problem??

Thanks in advance again

[DrewDude320i]

Hello all again,

Ok I have to pick the BAE guys brains again.

Well I started her up for the first time since I bought her, I wanted to see what exactly is going on. The previous owner said that their was white smoke coming from the exhaust as well as from the engine compartment.

After 2 attempts she fired up, wasn't really happy 'til warm due to the camshaft that's in there. It is a little lumpy cam, until I pull it I don't know what it is, only going to assume it is a Schrick due to the fact that the North American Distributor was in Vancouver Canada and that is where the car is from.

Do you know if Schrick put part # on their cams?

So I take her down the back alley try and get some boost going. Shift at 3500, no boost. Took her for another drive this time to 5500. At about 3800 the boost kicks hard and a whine from the turbo, before i know it I was at 6200.

Is this typical for the Rayjay, that much lagg?? It is a big turbo for a 1.8L

Also, there was white smoke coming from the breather in the valve cover. Someone put a stupid catch can system which didnt vent so it held the pressure, I got rid of that and put a breather that your would find on a chev 350 for now. So my mechanic thinks its the valve stem seals which needs replacing. Anyone else have the same problem??

Thanks in advance again

The RayJay is a very tight turbo, and I don't think they even spin at idle Mine didn't. That rpm is about typical for them. That's where they got their nickname of the "turning terror," because they'd spool up as you were exiting a turn and spin the car. take the breather off and just run a hose to the ground and tape a screen on the end of it to prevent critters from crawling in. Otherwise, you're going to have that part of your engine bay covered in oil eventually.

[jrcook320]

you may not have a cam, it could just be a tuning issue causing the lope at idle (ie vacuum leak, lean mix, etc)

the best way to get your bae turbo to spool sooner is to stroke it to 2.0L. A good down pipe with 2.5" exhaust will also help, and good, open plumbing to the turbo inlet will help.

There are many bolt-on fuel system upgrades that will allow you to turn the boost up. All the CIS tricks apply, though I've never agreed with the barbaric cold start injector spraying. Whatever you do, DON'T do that.

Volvo and VW guys claim the 240 turbo fuel distributor is good for 220 hp. I'm running a porsche 924 turbo afm/fd and I"m pushing about 250 hp with no additional injectors, and I"m not even using my boost sensing wur since I swapped to the porche unit. I attribute the 12:1 afr under boost with no control presure adjustment to the better flow characteristics of the downdraft afm and the near bend free and short pipe from the afm to the turbo on my setup.

[BAEE21Turbo]

Thanks again for the info.

I helped build a few high HP normally aspirated VW in my past. A 2.0L SOHC VW Rabbit GTi @ 160hp. I am going to be using the same type of tricks to get there in this 320.

I have a 70k Fuel Distributor from a '86 Audi 5000 Turbo, I am just going to block off one of the injector holes, also the WUR, cold start valve and Frequency valve from the same vehicle.

It is hard finding the old CIS parts, especially in my area. I know of 1 924 Turbo and have not see all that many 240 Turbos.

The 5000 Turbo's were good also for 220 - 240hp.

Now the question would be in regards to the fuel pump, what can the stock pump handle? And what is a good replacement?

As for the cam, I can bet a Timmy Double Double ( Its a Canadian thing ) there is a cam and not vacuum leak. I never had a vacuum leak that made an idle like that. When warm it holds steady 900rmp, no fluctuations. When I have the cam out doing the valve stem seals I'll see if there is a number on it, or I'll send it down to Vancouver, there are a couple specialty cam shops that will be able to spec it for me.

As for the crank of the 2.0L, I read that it is a bolt on, no machining, will I need to change rods to the 2.0L? I am more up on what I can do with VW's than the BMW's at this point.

Thanks again for your help

[epmedia]

quote: ...As for the crank of the 2.0L, I read that it is a bolt on, no machining, will I need to change rods to the 2.0L? I am more up on what I can do with VW's than the BMW's at this point.

For the 1.8 - 2.0 stroker, last I heard: is just the pistons are different in the wrist-pin location. However - the block should be bored, unless the cyl walls are "perfect". The boring of the worn cyls would be necessary if "not perfect", because the piston will travel an additional 4.5mm down, and 4.5mm up - so - the cyl bores need to be checked for "perfection".

Or more simply put about the boring: The rings will go "up" near the same, yet go "down" an additional 9mm in the bore. CANNOT be any ridges on those cyl walls.

Did I say that right? Robert