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Thread: What modifications to make E21 transmission mounts fit on an E36?

  1. #51
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    Opinions. Some are moderate, and some are strong.
    The pro Urethane guys make a stronger point 2 years on, as the E21 mounts now cost about the same as the poly.
    The argument about reverse ability was incorrect, as only the holes in the brace needed to be enlarged....Nothing else.

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  4. #54
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    Didn't want to start a new thread - what year e21 (or part #) are these mounts from?
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  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewtp View Post
    Didn't want to start a new thread - what year e21 (or part #) are these mounts from?
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...0#post18234410
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    The bmw genuine mounts under that part # run like $50 almost everywhere, but uro brand only 8$- anybody using these?
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  7. #57
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    There were two different part numbers for the E21 mounts for some reason. I went with 23711109173. Honestly I don't think it made a difference between fresh OEM mounts and the E21s. The E21 mounts may last a little longer.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewtp View Post
    The bmw genuine mounts under that part # run like $50 almost everywhere, but uro brand only 8$- anybody using these?
    I've heard very few compelling endorsements of the URO brand.
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  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by hli View Post
    There were two different part numbers for the E21 mounts for some reason. I went with 23711109173. Honestly I don't think it made a difference between fresh OEM mounts and the E21s. The E21 mounts may last a little longer.
    I noticed that too, I’ll probably just get the the stock ones if there is little difference between stock.

    and yes I’ve also not heard good things about Uro but i thought i would ask anyway.
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  10. #60
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    I see the attractiveness to installing 320 mounts because its an OE part,
    but due to having to modify the original transmission bracket I highly recommend UUC black mounts,
    since once drilled out you won't be able to go back. Don't use the cups, not a big deal if fitment is an issue, still better than stock.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Tried URO things a few times, with horrid results. Their rubber and plastic does not hold up long.

  11. #61
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    If we want to be really exact, drilling out larger hole through "support beam" aka cross member and then stuffing stiffer than OE bushing is ass backwards way of doing things. Not only do you weaken the support by making holes larger, but now on top of it you install a stiffer bushing so the support is made even weaker. If anything just install a stiffer bushing but leave the crossmember alone if you want to have tighter box
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  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by malter View Post
    If we want to be really exact, drilling out larger hole through "support beam" aka cross member and then stuffing stiffer than OE bushing is ass backwards way of doing things. Not only do you weaken the support by making holes larger, but now on top of it you install a stiffer bushing so the support is made even weaker. If anything just install a stiffer bushing but leave the crossmember alone if you want to have tighter box
    1 - The E21 mounts have larger bolts, so the cross member has to be drilled out. The transmission points can be left alone.
    B - The OE E21 mounts are rubber and not any stiffer than the original mounts. Hardly any difference in load that the cross member sees. People often run solid metal bushings here without an issue.
    III - This thread is suuuuper old.
    Last edited by LockDots; 11-08-2018 at 08:52 PM.

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