Cuz forums?
95 BMW M3 Alpine-
<GO...JIC Cross Coilovers- UUC RCAB, AKG FCAB, Rogue Engineering TM bushings- AA Gen3 Exhaust- Dinan F&R Strut Bars- Dinan F&R Sway Bars- X-Brace- Mishimoto Rad- BBS RK 17x8"- TRM Chip- Dinan BBTB- DIY CAI- JP Performance Headers- 21.5 injectors- JB Racing Flywheel- Bimmerworld TB boot- 540i MAF><SHOW...OE euro clear exterior lights- Depo w/ HID- Hurricane Alcantara interior- Stereo (Kenwood,Sony,MB Quart,Rockford Fosgate,JL Audio)- Black kidneys- Euro 3 Spoke- ZHP Knob- AutoDim Mirror>
Opinions. Some are moderate, and some are strong.
The pro Urethane guys make a stronger point 2 years on, as the E21 mounts now cost about the same as the poly.
The argument about reverse ability was incorrect, as only the holes in the brace needed to be enlarged....Nothing else.
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Just can't believe people are getting flamed for upgrading parts by modifying and swapping with factory parts. What's next. Am I gonna get offed for doing a m50 intake instead of a $1000 shrick manifold?
If your not pinging you not running enough boost.
Current cars : 03 Saab 95 aero , 97 M3/4/5
retired : 88 carerra coupe 3.2 , e30 m52 Vert, boosted e34 535i, e39 540i sport, r53 cooper s......
Didn't want to start a new thread - what year e21 (or part #) are these mounts from?
"Gratitude is the open door to abundance"
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
The bmw genuine mounts under that part # run like $50 almost everywhere, but uro brand only 8$- anybody using these?
"Gratitude is the open door to abundance"
There were two different part numbers for the E21 mounts for some reason. I went with 23711109173. Honestly I don't think it made a difference between fresh OEM mounts and the E21s. The E21 mounts may last a little longer.
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
I see the attractiveness to installing 320 mounts because its an OE part,
but due to having to modify the original transmission bracket I highly recommend UUC black mounts,
since once drilled out you won't be able to go back. Don't use the cups, not a big deal if fitment is an issue, still better than stock.
- - - Updated - - -
Tried URO things a few times, with horrid results. Their rubber and plastic does not hold up long.
If we want to be really exact, drilling out larger hole through "support beam" aka cross member and then stuffing stiffer than OE bushing is ass backwards way of doing things. Not only do you weaken the support by making holes larger, but now on top of it you install a stiffer bushing so the support is made even weaker. If anything just install a stiffer bushing but leave the crossmember alone if you want to have tighter box
'95 M3 cosmos, sold
'96 M3 boston gree, sold
'00 M5 jet black, sold
'01 M3 Ti Silver, sold
'07 335i jet black, sold
'00 M5 Silver, sold
'03 M5 Carbon sold
'02 M5 Carbon black, sold
'97 M3, white, sold
'02 M5 Sterling gray, sold
'03 530xi wagon, sold
'91 M5 black, sold
'99 M3 cosmos, sold
'11 335i, gray, sold
'09 M3 silverstone, sold
'02 330i, sold
'02 M3, steel gray, sold
'02 325xi, BSM, sold
'09 335, Montego, sold
'97 M3, dakar II, current
'97 M3 estoril
1 - The E21 mounts have larger bolts, so the cross member has to be drilled out. The transmission points can be left alone.
B - The OE E21 mounts are rubber and not any stiffer than the original mounts. Hardly any difference in load that the cross member sees. People often run solid metal bushings here without an issue.
III - This thread is suuuuper old.
Last edited by LockDots; 11-08-2018 at 08:52 PM.
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