There you have it folks, I'm just trying to waste everyones money and time.
Yeah MY UUC DSSR is ALL messed up from using the 320i mounts... so angry. :P
BMW CCA Member 186373 - Golden Gate Chapter
Former (e)Bombe Magazine Editor, "The Toy Box" product review writer | Current member of Team Jesus
Gone: 1995 E36 M3 Arctik Silber, 1996 E36 M3 Cosmos, 1991 E30 318is Cosmos
I have used both sets.
The Number I provided is what I most recently bought for my S52/ZF320('99 M3) drive train swap in my E30. A single one is designed to be the sole tranny mount in the E21.
They do have the green paint on the rubber.
The Other number I used 3 yrs ago to replace the stock mounts on my E36 M3.... I have not checked them lately but they were fine the last time I used the car...Late oct.
They are the same except the colour is absent on the one set.
I gave you the number provided as the sales receipt was handy.
m
Edit... Either set are stiffer durometer than the Gum like softness of the E36 mounts.
They are the same in dimension.
Last edited by mmark.; 12-24-2009 at 08:48 AM.
I had to grind down two nubs that keep the stock mounts from rotating. It didn't take long at all since the x member is aluminum and I think I had to drill the holes out to 10mm.
Why in the world would you modifiy your crossmember/tranny case just make a $6 mount work?
Is $35 really too much money for you?
Because it's an easy mod only takes 20 minutes or less. It's worth it for those of us that can operate a drill.
Last edited by black318i; 12-24-2009 at 02:20 PM.
^I can operate more than drill, but now you have modified the crossmember so if you ever want to go back then your out $50. If you modified the trans case that's is even worse. I guess we don't think the same way.
Dude give it a rest...
The 320 mounts are great. Ive got a set waiting to go on...
PM/email me for some of the cleanest and safest redrills money can buy.
info@ewheelworks.com
I can also powder coat, polish, and plate for a very competitive price.
ewheelworks.com
Give it a rest? Your hacking up your car like a dead broke teenager.
I guess we don't. You could go back if you want, but you would probably want to add some washers though. I cant think of a reason to go back and the e21 mounts can be had at any dealer so availability is not an issue.
Why do you think you are so high and mighty just because you think it's a better idea to spend the extra $23 for a bolt on vs a mod part. Some of us don't mind and even enjoy modding beyond direct bolt on parts. For me and probably just about everyone else it has vary little to do with saving money.
Last edited by black318i; 12-24-2009 at 03:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You don't mod the bushings. What is stupid is fact that you cannot comprehend that drilling out the x member holes and trans slots out by 2mm does not cause any issue what so ever, none, zero, zilch. Converting back would not be an issue at all so I don't see what your point is about modding the x member and trans case. There is absolutely no noticeable vibration or noise with this mod and e21 mount is obviously a factory part so availability is not an issue. If you are too afraid of this mod then don't do it. Sure it's easier to use the direct bolt ons and $35 is nothing, but some of us like to go beyond direct bolt ons. Seriously what is your hang up with this? It's a proven mod.
Well if you are not capable of holding the mount while tightening the nut this mod is not for you. The mount doesn't turn after the nuts are tightened.
Last edited by black318i; 12-24-2009 at 05:58 PM.
^I don't need that mod, I already have UUC red non race mounts.
LOL
UUC red race mounts for me too.
Not sure where the tranny case modding came from but: IF THE STUD DOESN'T GO THROUGH THE SLOT ON THE TRANNY SIDE YOU HAVE THE WRONG BUSHING.
You do not need to touch the tranny to make these work.
CUT A NOTCH IN THE MOUNT, OR TAKE THE NOTCHES OUT OF THE BRACE,MAKE THE HOLES IN THE BRACE A LITTLE BIGGER AND CALL IT AN EFFING DAY.
THIS IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE!
This in no way makes your cross brace un-usable with stock mounts should you ever decide to go back.
Thats almost as stupid as saying installing a Dinan intake that requires you to remove a horn destroys your frame rail since you had to modifiy or remove the horn mount.
Aftermarket Mounts made for the application and work as intended FTW. E21 mounts are fine I'm sure, but up to the quality of a good aftermarket for a M3? Seems as if the application of each has a different target. E21 for a nice Street Car, Aftermarket designed for a hi-performance application.
If it works for you, thats cool!
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
Ran into this dinosaur from 3 years ago as I'm doing the e21 upgrade.... why do people have to act like jerk offs?
If your not pinging you not running enough boost.
Current cars : 03 Saab 95 aero , 97 M3/4/5
retired : 88 carerra coupe 3.2 , e30 m52 Vert, boosted e34 535i, e39 540i sport, r53 cooper s......
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