1994 BMW 325i won't start !!

[bushmstr02]

Hello , new to the forum and i'm having trouble with my wifes 94 BMW 325i . The car was running ok but was pulsating during accelleration on ocassion . We had some major rain for like two weeks and on the last day of rain she called and said that the car wouldn't start . I got home and tried to start it a few times and it sounded like it was turning over just fine but wouldn't fire and then the battery died . I figured it was the fuel pump because on long trips it sounded kinda loud and I figured that it finally went out . I didn't have time yet to fix it and she got one of her friends son to come look at it after I asked her not to . He changed the fuel filter on it and checked the fuses and I really don't know what else he checked and it didn't work . I got home as he finished and when he tried to start it , it sounded different to me . It sounded like a timing chain / belt was broken , like turning too fast , but i'm pretty positive that isn't what it is . I went out with my test light and noticed there was no power on the fuel pump fuse and no power of course at the fuel pump . I started researching online (pelican DME article ) and found out about the DME flooding problem and figured that was it . Opened the compartment and water poured out , so I took it apart and set it out to dry for a few days . Went and got some electrical spray , q-tips and a soft toothbrush and gently cleaned both sides . Put it in the oven @ 150 degrees for 45 minutes and put it back together and tried it and nothing still . So I have been trying to figure out the whole relay thing and everone has something different to say about which one is which . From what I gather , the small box on the side of the big fuse box is the DME , fuel pump relay and whatever the #3 is . I'm not sure which is which , #1 is blue , #2 is white and #3 is orange . I know there is power going to them on at least 1-2 prongs . If I knew which one was the f pump and which was the dme I could try jumping them . I did try it on the the #1 and #2 two but I really don't know what i'm doing there but I do remeber hearing some run in the dme when I jumped both of the sockets at different times but never heard the fuel pump . Am I suppose to do both sockets at the same time in specific slots ? I also read that no spark would make the dme turn off power to the pump , so would that be why there is no power on the fuse ? What about the crankshaft position sensor , if it was bad and not sending a signal to the dme would it shut it all down ? If one of the coil packs is bad will it kill the whole engine ? My other car had 1 injector ground out and went bad and it shut the whole engine down just like the bmw is doing .

[E36 For Life]

Wow wow wow, hold the phone in the oven for @ 150 for 45 minutes my oven only goes down to 170 or warm. What is that an easy bake oven? Either way never bake any electronics heat is your biggest enemy and do not jumper wires you don’t know!! Your DME is on the passenger side in the fire wall under the hood, as a 94 it’s probably a #413. Your compression is down from all the cranking of the engine and no, one bad coil will not kill the engine. Start with the basics do you have fuel, is there spark ,is there a check engine light? Then go from there.

[bushmstr02]

Thanks for the reply , I know where the DME is and it was under water when I pulled it out and alot of articles were doing the method of putting it in the oven to evaporate all the water out of it . My oven only goes to 175 also but I left the door open a little with a oven thermometer and it kept the temp down . I read where one guy left his in the oven all night on 150 degrees and it fixed his problem , but it didn't mine ! I don't have fuel because there is no power going to pump and I will check the spark and resistance on coils tomorrow .

[E36 For Life]

Do a stomp test (if you don't know how do a search here) and pull the codes Then get back. Don't worry about the resistance on the coils, I doubt all six went at once.

Check for power to the coils.

[dcwright]

Wow wow wow, hold the phone in the oven for @ 150 for 45 minutes my oven only goes down to 170 or warm. What is that an easy bake oven? Either way never bake any electronics heat is your biggest enemy and do not jumper wires you don’t know!! Your DME is on the passenger side in the fire wall under the hood, as a 94 it’s probably a #413. Your compression is down from all the cranking of the engine and no, one bad coil will not kill the engine. Start with the basics do you have fuel, is there spark ,is there a check engine light? Then go from there.

150F and even 170F won't hurt your electronics module when there's no power applied. 70C (which is 158F) is the maximum operating temperature for commercial grade ICs and typically anything that goes in the engine compartment is industrial grade which has a max operating temp of 85C which is (185F). You do need to be a bit careful about putting anything in the oven that might give off volatile fumes. If you have enough of the cleaner on the board and get a spark from the contactor in the oven that turns the element on and off you can get a nice bang that will pop the oven door open..........

[E36 For Life]

Semiconductors degrade with heat.

[scottki]

I am having the same problem, it sound like it wants to turn on but it does not. i have changed the cranshaft sensor but nothing. im thinking my altenator? some people say i could be the prblem and some say it couldnt be the proplem. i dont get any power to the pump also. im gonna go to autozone and get the altenator checked. there are two bolts and two belt tensioners. probably a nub in the back of the bottom bolt.

[themac6]

I have the exact same problem: Huge rainstorm and now my car won't start. It'll crank, but it won't turn over. I'm getting no spark and no fuel. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Now the camshaft sensor comes up when I use the diagnostic tool. I was advised to take the computer out and shake it since I might have gotten water in there. Really hope it works because I've sunk a considerable amount of cash into it already and still nothing. any advice is most welcome.

[bushmstr02]

i took my dem apart and cleaned it and heated in the oven for an hour , but it didn't work . I noticed it had broken connectors on some of the solder joints , so I bought a used one off of ebay . It is working now but still won't start , I have no power going to fuel pump relay . I've done all the test thta everyone has posted on the forums . The only thing I have left is the crankshaft sensor and maybe checking the alarm system immobiliser unit , i'll let everyone know how it turns out .

[themac6]

Update: I caved and had it towed to a shop. It was the DME - it wasn't wet, but it was fried. Apparently there were several cars suffering from the same affliction. Helluva storm, it was. And an expensive DIY lesson (gotta be zen about it. that and I've run out of curse words.) Got it replaced and it's back to normal - except now there's a check engine light on. Oy!!

[bushmstr02]

Finally got mine to start , bought a dme off ebay and still wouldn't start but did have power coming from it now . Replaced the crank sensor and it fired right up . Bad thing is now , whatever that sensor looking thing that is mounted into the air box that has two coolant lines attached to it , one of the nipples broke off of it and can't be fixed . I don't think it can be a sensor , it has no wires going to it . Does anyone know what it is called so I can replace it ?

[montec]

I think it is a coolant temp sensor? one of the nipples broke off mine, but I used and dremel on it and was able to make a connection farther up for the coolant hose.

[bushmstr02]

Yeah that's a good idea , but i'm thinking of just capping off the hoses with bolts and putting a hose clamp on them . I figured out that was just a throttle body thermostat that keeps your throttle body from freezing in cold climates . Everyone says their cars run better without it hooked up because the air is cooler going into the intake .