Sorry to bring up an old thread. How did you guys do your heater lines? did you leave your heater stuff in the stock location, or did you guys relocate it? Also, I saw a few of you guys had written in your build threads that you would do your heater lines differently if you could.
do any of you care to elaborate what you meant by this?
I also got my 48” gates 90⁰ hoses as suggested by tongboy. The best prices I found were at rock auto for about $13 each
GATES 28472 5/8" X 4" X 48" qty 1
GATES 28480 3/4" X 4" X 48" qty 2 I only used one full length of the 48" hose to go from the heater core to the expansion tank
If I were to do it over from scratch I would use qty 2 3/4" x 36" (maybe 24" might work) to go from the heater core to the heater valve and keep the 3/4" X 48" from the heater core to the expansion tank
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ocrvaw3d4UM Dont drive over limited speed!!! Drive safely......
look in my build thread - you have to relocate it - the block/heads is where the stock location of the heater core goes. the factory option is the e36 euro m3 mounting position on the drivers area. I ran it back by the ECU in that area - you could also mount it under that tray where the battery goes in the 318 if you wanted to hide it.
I relocated the heater valve to just behind the passenger side strut tower. I made hard lines to run between everything with just rubber to connect to each component (more clearance around the headers). I like how it turned out but think there would be a faster cheaper way to fab the lines. But I'd do it again if i couldn't find a better way. One thing I am going to do differently is plumb the euro expansion tank into the heater lines. I'll get to it eventually.
Link to a bit on how I did my lines.
http://www.ls1bmw.blogspot.se/2007/0...last-post.html
Hers my setup...
Overhead picture of the cooling system. I used the factory BMW lower radiator hose cut to length.
The U-hose to the expansion tank
Brass 90 degree elbow from Lowes. The packaging says 1" however the OD of the fitting fits 3/4" hose perfectly...
Brass tee from Lowes*
GATES 28472 5/8" X 4" X 48" qty 1
GATES 28480 3/4" X 4" X 48" qty 2 I only used one full length of the 48" hose to go from the heater core to the expansion tank
If I were to do it over from scratch I would use qty 2 3/4" x 36" (maybe 24" might work) to go from the heater core to the heater valve and keep the 3/4" X 48" from the heater core to the expansion tank
In this picture the top hose is the 3/4" X 48" from the heater core to the expansion tank. The bottom hose is 5/8" X 36" (again 24" might work) to the heater valve. Another Lowes Racing brass elbow was used at the end of this hose to turn toward the heater valve. This brass elbow is packaged as 3/4" but fits the 5/8" hose correctly.
E34 heater valve installed in lower half of battery tray
*pics edited out so the quote isnt off the chain
Extremely clean setup! well done sir, reminds me a lot of mine only I relocated my overflow reservoir to the driver side behind the headlight. Its a snug fit but it works and my intake fits much much better! will post a pic if I find one.
**Edit Heres a pic of mine! Notice the reservoir over to the right of the engine bay peaking out from behind the headlight
Last edited by EKnight; 04-30-2012 at 02:08 PM. Reason: adding pics- pics or its worthless :)
Thanks!
I like your setup too. Did you have to make a bracket to mount the overflow tank?
Where does the small line off the oem expansion tank need to go?
Im using a jtr transitional T with bleeder and steam vent fitting too....
Necro posting to keep relevant information together.
Ive seen a few one piece lower radiator hoses in recent swaps. Does anyone have a part number for connecting the Fbody water pump to the lower E36 stock radiator?
The stock BMW hose works well.
Easy enough.
Thanks
any one find any easy one piece solution for the for the top tube?
Dayco 71189 works well for me.
Last edited by Inflame; 01-22-2016 at 01:51 PM.
When I bought the PWR radiator in 2009 I believe I found it on sale for around $500. It must have gone up a lot since then.
If you buy an aftermarket radiator you may want to consider having it configured with the outlet on the right side. This would allow more room for air intake piping. I realized this later. However either way there is room enough.
Here's how I did mine. This took me quite a bit of time to figure out correctly.
My heater hose, for now, is looped back into itself. The only place I could find to tie in was with a splice from JTR that was a 1 1/2 inch with a 3/4 to tie into the e36 coolant tank. The hose used was a stock ls1 radiator hose that I chopped up to fit the splice in the middle. I mounted the overflow tank on the right side of my radiator, with enough clearance for the filter to fit over to the right side using a Silicone Intakes universal air filter kit.
For the upper radiator hose, I used the CX racing tube made for the e36 ls1 swap, pictured below. I couldn't bleed the damn thing no matter what I tried, because I was filling from the bottom (spent 3 days trying to bleed properly). My solution was to have a -4 AN bung welded into the top of the radiator tube. I left that open while filling and coolant came out right away - no more air bubbles at the top. Made a job that was going to take seemingly unlimited time, take about 10 minutes.
final top tube.JPG
For the radiator I am using a 6 cylinder radiator I got on RockAuto, the 318is radiator had to go. The 6 cyl radiator in a 4 cyl car seems to be a squeeze, I'm not sure if mounting points are different or something. The fan used was a 16" SPAL 30102049. I originally had a 14" universal eBay fan that absolutely could not keep the temps down.
Last edited by Richard Franks; 07-21-2017 at 02:11 PM.
Bookmarks