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Thread: looking for a street/track rat - trading/selling my drift car

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Baltimore, MD
    Posts
    8,409
    My Cars
    98 540i6

    looking for a street/track rat - trading/selling my drift car

    Looking to sell or trade my drift car. It’s become to impractical without a garage and/or truck of my own. If a trade is made:

    1) HAS to be RWD
    2) Has to be street legal (clean/salvage title that can be registered).
    3) Prefer it to be something like a track rat – light engine mods, suspension brakes, cage, etc. or in S13 terms – SR or well-built KA-t, coilovers, diff, etc.

    My car:

    Body/Chassis/Safety:

    - MA-motorsports 6pt. cage with X-type door bars
    - Sparco Pro2000 driver’s seat w/ OBX 5-point camlock harnesses (SFI certified)
    - Momo 300mm suede steering wheel
    - 5lb Halon Fire suppression system – pull-type, plumbed into cabin.
    - Stitch welded engine bay and rear sheet metal
    - Car was painted some 1970s Plymouth green as a bare shell, so most of the cage (added two door bars since paint) is painted as well as engine bay, door jams, etc.
    - B-Magic fiberglass fenders – 30mm front, 50mm rear
    - B-Magic “D1” fiberglass bumpers + side skirts
    - Some carbon fiber hood - I’m sure it’s a couple layers of aesthetic carbon with a fiberglass skeleton. I weighed it vs. my stock hood and it was somewhere around 20lbs. lighter


    Stuff that like…connects the chassis to the road:

    - Tanabe Pro DD coilovers (kyb-dampers) spring rates - F:10kg/mm R:8kg/mm
    - Megan adjustable RUCA (rear camber adjustment)
    - Megan Tension rods
    - Aluminum rear subframe bushings
    - Hicas Steering rack
    - Polyurethane rack bushings
    - Tein inner tie rods
    - SPL outer tie rods (retains parallel tie rod geometry despite ride height)
    - Z32 front brakes
    - SS brake lines in flex sections
    - CNC staging/rally brake – plumbed [inline] to operate the rear calipers (cable parking brake was relocated and still functions to park the car)
    - Longer “race” lug studs – F: Moroso; R: ARP
    - Wheels
    o F: 17x9 +15 MB Battle
    o R: 17x9.5 -23 (+15 with 1.5” bolt-on spacer)

    Engine:

    - Stock Twin-turbo Toyota 1jz (not sure, but I think it was from a JZZ30)
    - Mid-mounted Greddy S13 vspl FMIC
    - Griffin dual-pass “Universal Import” radiator w/ self-bleeding surge tank.
    - Generic boost-cut defender
    - 3” intake tube with generic filter
    - 3” v-band exhaust – downpipe-to-turbo and rear section
    - MA-motorsports 1jz-to-S13 mount kit (uses S13 rubber mounts)
    - Apex-i PowerFC w/ commander (not installed)
    - Gauges:
    o Greddy 60mm electronic water-temp gauge
    o HKS analog boost gauge
    o SPI electronic fuel-pressure gauge

    This [stock] setup made approximately 227whp (270bhp) according MA-motorsport’s dyno. It is dyno dynamics model – when operated correctly, Dyno Dynamics HP and Tq values are low-reading units when compared to many inertial-type dynos like DynoJets.

    Drivetrain:
    - Toyota R154 transmission w/ extended shifter.
    - Exedy Hypersingle clutch (3 events + 1hr. dyno time/break-in)
    - Custom driveshaft w/ Spicer replaceable U-joints
    - ATS Deftforce 1.5/2way [adjustable] LSD (regular fluid changes)




    The car runs well, but is far from perfect cosmetically – it’s a track-only car. I have a spare, unpainted RF fender, and I’m pretty sure a LF as well.

    As stated in the specs, I have not installed the Apex-I PowerFC. I may consider selling this separately – it is a designed for a 2jz; but, can be used on a 1jz with very very minimal rewiring (IIRC one or two injector wires swapped @ the ECU plug).


    I'm not really sure what to ask, I suppose we'll say $7k OBO with PowerFC. I will take more pictures this week.


    Clubloose.com – East Coash Bash II (1jz shakedown - w/o many body panels)
    (images courtesy of Adam Lam and Clubloose.com)





    Hyperfest 09 – USdrift Nationals
    (images courtesy of wreckedmag.com and Dan Jenkins)




    **This one was promptly after a bit of a muddy off in Turn 5 at Summit Point.



    Initial assembly (winter/spring 2005)



    **large pictures:
    http://www.mattmartindrift.com/albums/theb...ge%20build1.jpg
    http://www.mattmartindrift.com/album...d/P1010012.JPG

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Fairfax, VA
    Posts
    6,695
    My Cars
    stuff
    Why RWD?

    Just curious. A lot of the great bargains for entry-level track cars are FWD. I know of a B13 (I think) SE-R for sale that'd be a great starter track car, friend is selling it for $2800 last I checked. Know of another Neon that's already got a cage in it and would be a GREAT starter HPDE/Track Rat, and on its way to being a nice SCCA ITA car.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Baltimore, MD
    Posts
    8,409
    My Cars
    98 540i6
    I don't think I could 100% separate myself from drifting - too many friends and fun events. Also, I'd like the option if a "demo" (aka free track opportunity) arises.


    I'm not discounting the racing/fun abilities of good FWD cars, i'm well aware of their capabilities.











    Also, this car is Sold!
    Last edited by mattmartindrift; 09-22-2009 at 07:03 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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