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Thread: Thrust Arm Bushing - "THE BOLT METHOD"

  1. #1
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    Thrust Arm Bushing - "THE BOLT METHOD"

    Hey folks

    My 2003 530i Sport with 76k miles required fast response regarding famous Thrust Arm bushing .
    After a lot of work done on my 2001 I felt comfortable to do it myself
    I read carefully beisansystems Thrust Arm Bushings (E39) replacement and it helped me a lot …
    but I personally don’t like Jaw Puller & Pipe Cap Press Technique so I did it in my way .

    I think it will be interesting to share this with you ...

    I used 2 tools – E38/E39 3 Rear Diff Bushing BMW Metric Tool – I called it A Tool

    A Tool





    and 3 pullers which i borrowed from AutoZone ( The Ball Joint Press Kit ) - I called it B Tool

    B Tool :

    I didn’t replace the whole thrust arms – here I simple SHOW you how I did it UNDER CAR on my OLD Thrust Arm .

    Sides should be 14.5mm – I checked my old bushing and it was very close ( 14.4 mm )





    I started to press my old bushing from arrow (inner) side:



    This is my first setup – I pressed bushing almost till Thrust Arm with puller #1 A Tool in front and puller #1 B tool in rear



    Start working, moving well:



    Coming to Thrust Arm …



    second setup - Now I need to change right puller #1 A Tool to puller #2 from AutoZone ( B Tool )



    The inner part of this puller will destroy my old bushing but outer part will do the job.
    I was not able to find the better puller of this size ( 66.4mm )
    As I don't need an old bushing this method worked just fine for me

    Bushing diameter
    58.3
    66.4





    Moving the whole bushing inside the Thrust Arm – most important and difficult part
    of Thrust Arm bushing replacement :




    third setup - need enlarge rear part – I replaced part #1 B Tool with part #3 B Tool




    All done





    Now I need to disconnect AutoZone puller from old bushing:





    My old bushing was cracked:







    Time to install my new bushing (pictures under car) . Again you need to start from the same arrow side



    Here I used part #5 from A Tool and part #1 from AutoZone B Tool

    Installation is much easy - this is the only one setup which i need :









    The most important thing is to achieve the right direction when you press new bushing and 14.5 mm dimension from both sides

    I marked 14.5 mm on my new bushing and also marked both arm and bushing to follow arrow signs

    Here is my installed new bushing ( right side )



    As you see the “BOLT method” is more effective and more easy than a “Jaw Puller” method

    I can say that this was not difficult at all ...

    Don't forget in the end to tighten all bolts in “normal position”

    My 2003 530i Black Sport stock “normal position” (loaded ) with OEM 17" wheels

    LF 395 MM
    RF 390 MM
    LR 370 MM
    RR 365 MM

    My 2003 530i Silver Sport stock “normal position” (loaded ) with OEM 17" wheels

    LF 380 MM
    RF 375 MM
    LR 360 MM
    RR 365 MM

    not loaded

    LF 400 MM
    RF 395 MM
    LR 380 MM
    RR 375 MM

    not loaded 18" with Koni Yellow Adjustable

    LF 395 MM
    RF 390 MM
    LR 390 MM
    RR 390 MM

    Enjoy !
    Last edited by champaign777; 06-23-2012 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  2. #2
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    Thanks for the nice write up. Can you put the down the torque specs for bolts?

  3. #3
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    tension strut to subframe 110 NM ( 81 Ft Lb )

    don't forget to perform final torque under normal position ( loaded )
    Last edited by champaign777; 02-23-2012 at 01:04 AM.

  4. #4
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    A thousand points of light.
    Cold vodka.
    Aletta Ocean.
    Bravo, nice job.
    This is the way to-do this job, no Shark JAWS puller needed.
    What bushing did you use, OEM or Myle HD?
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  5. #5
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    I applaud your effort. If I did this your way I would have left the other end attached to the spindle.

    I usually pull the whole arm out because I replaced the bushings with a pneumatic press. I have all the tools you used. I'll have to try it your way with the arm in once to see if it's any faster.

    I work as a tech at an independent BMW repair shop.

    LA chapter BMW CCA autocross CDI
    www.bmwclubla.org

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerfiver View Post
    A thousand points of light.
    Cold vodka.
    Aletta Ocean.
    Bravo, nice job.
    This is the way to-do this job, no Shark JAWS puller needed.
    What bushing did you use, OEM or Myle HD?
    it was long time ago in 2009 old man and it was cold but no Russian vodka used
    i may try next time with vodka and see if it's any faster.
    No china suspension on my cars , only OEM bushing . Even they will not last long they will last gooood

    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff.T View Post
    I applaud your effort. If I did this your way I would have left the other end attached to the spindle.

    I usually pull the whole arm out because I replaced the bushings with a pneumatic press. I have all the tools you used. I'll have to try it your way with the arm in once to see if it's any faster.

    I work as a tech at an independent BMW repair shop.
    Usually trust arm bushing lasts ~50k miles where whole trust arm
    can lasts ~100k miles so this method may work for you as well
    Last edited by champaign777; 10-03-2011 at 11:46 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  7. #7
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    Fwiw, my thrust arm bushings are about 25% torn/compromised after 12-16 months. And that's tooling around on 16" wheels. New York roads are like Siberia, tough.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  8. #8
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    i know New York roads are evil amigo so your next job will be BMW mechanic

  9. #9
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    Do you think one would be able to find, say from a lowes or home depot, a similar bolt and size piping to replicate the tool you used?

    Would it have the "strength" to push the bushing out?

  10. #10
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    you may try this combo

    #1 Master Ball Joint Adapter set
    #4 10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set
    from Harbor Freight + some long bolts



    I never tried it so cant comment

    If you need my E38/E39 3 Rear Diff Bushing BMW Metric Tool i can rent it
    igorolen at gmail dot com
    Last edited by champaign777; 11-12-2011 at 12:26 PM.

  11. #11
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    Replacing bushings is a waste of money and time. Just my own opinion LOL!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
    Replacing bushings is a waste of money and time. Just my own opinion LOL!
    Not always, something older cars with lower mileage have softened bushings due to age, but the ball joint still have plenty of life.

    My car has 42k miles and I'm sure the ball joints are just breaking in, but the front end does feel a bit soft, so for me some new bushings might be quite an upgrade.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElleShooTiger View Post
    Not always, something older cars with lower mileage have softened bushings due to age, but the ball joint still have plenty of life.

    My car has 42k miles and I'm sure the ball joints are just breaking in, but the front end does feel a bit soft, so for me some new bushings might be quite an upgrade.
    That's a maybe. But why spend double the time with bushing replacement for a maybe result?
    When you can just replace the whole thing for half the time, and check off on your list that it's done...

  14. #14
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    because trust arm bushings last 30-50k ( $40-$80 value ) where trust arm ball joints last 70-120k ( $130-$180 value )
    The life of whole trust arm = 2 lifes of trust arm bushings
    Last edited by champaign777; 11-13-2011 at 01:22 PM.

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