Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 40 of 40

Thread: 1998 BMW 528i Complete FRONT Suspension Overhaul

  1. #26
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Rochester Hills, MI
    Posts
    20
    My Cars
    X5 4.4 spt, 530i spt
    Looking for a bit of help and this was the closest thread I could find to what I needed. I did my thrust arms and control arms recently without a problem and I'm preparing to do my tie rods. The one issue I'm concerned about is that I don't see how to get the appropriate torque reading (71 Nm) on the tie rod to rack using the 32mm fan clutch tool. Can anyone comment on how they applied the correct torque using that method?

  2. #27
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,196
    My Cars
    1998 528i 5-spd 102K
    rholmes1068,

    It has been a year since I wrote this DIY, so far so good.

    Look at Step #20: once you have the adjustable wrench on the rack, simply tighten the 32-mm wrench with your strength. You won't be able to strip any bolt, so don't worry about it. Actually, once snug, it won't even move much, so tighten it firmly and done with. If you are concerned, then apply a drop of Loctite.

    This junction has little stress, it simply pulls the wheels R or L and there are plenty of threads on the tierod to hold it.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Rochester Hills, MI
    Posts
    20
    My Cars
    X5 4.4 spt, 530i spt
    Thanks cnn!

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    1,780
    My Cars
    2019 M850i - 2016 228i
    Awesome writeup!

    Just ran out to Harbor Tool to get that ball joint separator!

    Spent the better part of an hour wailing on it with a pickle fork to no avail last night.........Can't wait to try out the tool!

    Got the Harbor Freight Tool......

    First one popped out with ease!

    Second one snapped the tool......

    Not surprised for a $20 tool. Off to get a new one tomorrow.


    Will be investing in a stronger one for future use. The way this car goes through lower control arms, it will pay to have the right tool!
    Last edited by fmzip; 10-21-2010 at 09:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Livonia, Michigan
    Posts
    161
    My Cars
    1984 318i, 2001 Ford
    Okay so I did the whole front end. (Re-used the hubs.) Ride height is a bit tall though. The measurement from the rim to the fender is 17cm. The strut is OEM specs, I checked it before installing it, ordered the rest of the parts, E39 specific. What gives? I would appreciate any input. Thanks.
    1984 318i, Not pretty but running strong.
    1999 528iT
    2001 Excursion Ltd, 7.3 Diesel
    IAFF 1496, Laid Off
    ./________\.
    (OO=[][]=OO)
    { }------{ }


  6. #31
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,196
    My Cars
    1998 528i 5-spd 102K
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackCloud View Post
    ...Ride height is a bit tall though. The measurement from the rim to the fender is 17cm.
    Normal,

    Nothing to worry about. Over the years, the Factory Struts bottom out giving us the impression that it is the way it is supposed to be!

    New struts will raise the height a bit, that was my impression when I did mine 2 years ago. All is well for me.
    Nothing to worry about.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Livonia, Michigan
    Posts
    161
    My Cars
    1984 318i, 2001 Ford
    Thanks. I'm going to re-weight the car and release and re-torque the suspension to be sure the bushings aren't giving it any lift.

    GREAT DIY!!! Thanks for all the detail. I just printed it and was able to walk right through it.

    The only thing I really did different was to completely remove the suspension and essentially rebuild it in place. Either way fantastic info. Well done!!
    1984 318i, Not pretty but running strong.
    1999 528iT
    2001 Excursion Ltd, 7.3 Diesel
    IAFF 1496, Laid Off
    ./________\.
    (OO=[][]=OO)
    { }------{ }


  8. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Laguna Niguel, CA
    Posts
    61
    My Cars
    2011 550i M Sport
    Thanks CNN. I just finished this on my e39. I did it all except the passenger side sway bar bushing. After looking at it for 5 minutes, I determined there was no way in hell I was going to be able to get to the back nut. Can't believe you were able to do it.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,196
    My Cars
    1998 528i 5-spd 102K
    Quote Originally Posted by rdef View Post
    Thanks CNN. I just finished this on my e39. I did it all except the passenger side sway bar bushing. After looking at it for 5 minutes, I determined there was no way in hell I was going to be able to get to the back nut. Can't believe you were able to do it.
    The swaybar bushing: passenger side. You were right, it is so tight and difficult with the back nut. The back nut alone took me 1h, bit by bit using the 12-point wrench. It was painfully slow!

    You can always do this bushing later when you have free time and a weekend with nothing else to do!

    Do you like the "new" ride/handling, fantastic right!

    Now you have done the Front, time to do the Rear soon (I also wrote the Rear overhaul here).
    Once you have completed the Front and Rear suspensions, the car drives like a charm!
    Last edited by cnn; 11-07-2011 at 10:41 AM.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Clarksville, TN
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    2002 BMW 525i
    I have the 525i sport suspension. i know instead of the HD's i should go with the sports. as far as all these suspension overhaul kits im finding, will these work with my sport suspension? i can't find a kit for the front that says it is compatible with sport, im about to start compiling a list of individual components.

    edit: by the way, that is an incredible write up. thanks
    Last edited by skibby; 12-19-2012 at 09:38 AM. Reason: forgotten information

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    San Jose, California
    Posts
    28
    My Cars
    1998 BMW E39 528i 4Dr
    Quote Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
    Awesome writeup!

    Just ran out to Harbor Tool to get that ball joint separator!
    Spent the better part of an hour wailing on it with a pickle fork to no avail last night.........Can't wait to try out the tool!
    Got the Harbor Freight Tool......
    First one popped out with ease!
    Second one snapped the tool......
    Not surprised for a $20 tool. Off to get a new one tomorrow.
    Will be investing in a stronger one for future use. The way this car goes through lower control arms, it will pay to have the right tool!

    Thank you for the DIY, it was very helpful in changing my front suspension components. In my opinion, if you are going to replace the the lower control arm, thrust arms, and tie rod, a Pickle fork may be a better choice of tools.

    I also bought the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Separator, and although mine did not break, it did take considerable effort on my part tightening the bolt with a combination wrench. Spraying the ball joint stud, and knuckle with WD40 or Penetrating Oil a few hours prior really does help, as does whacking on the knuckle while the Harbor Freight Tool is applying pressure on the Ball Joint Stud.

    My lower factory control arm snapped in half while driving and making a U-turn, granted the Thrust arm bushings were gone,unknown to me at the time, and the shimmy I had at highway speeds was misdiagnosed by the alignment shop as a bent wheel which is not bent and now drives problem free.

    I also replaced my passenger side upper thrust arm & lower control arm, and was wondering what might be causing this wear on the thrust arms, I know that this sounds crazy, but it looks like some one took a die grinder and ground the control arm in hopes that it would snap while I am driving.

    I checked the inner wheels and see no scraping marks, which should be there if that was what caused the gouge on the arm. All four control arms I replaced have a BMW logo, and part number on them so they are probably the original upper and lower control arms.

    Jose F. Medeiros
    408-256-0649 Google Voice
    San Jose, California
    http://www.linkedin.com/in/josemedeiros
    "There is nothing you can't accomplish if you let another man take the idea".




    PICT0002.jpgControlArm1.jpgThrust Arm2.jpg

  12. #37
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Oxnard, CA
    Posts
    74
    My Cars
    2003 525i M54 Auto
    saved for my to do list.
    Gerry
    2003 525i M54 Auto E39

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Virginia,USA
    Posts
    3,144
    My Cars
    528i, 525iT, M5
    thanks for making my efforts on suspension overhauling simple
    Current Garage Highlights
    2003 525iT TiSilver
    2002 M5 TiSilver
    1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)

    Former Garage Highlights
    2005 X5 4.8is
    2004 325iTs (2x)
    1973 Pantera L
    1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
    1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
    1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
    1969 Road Runner 383
    1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    568
    My Cars
    02 530i, 70 Cuda 440-6
    Thanks for the excellent write-up. Just installed Sachs OEM sports struts with Vogtland springs (951027). It lowered the car 1/2 all around over the originals (117K on them) and the car rides wonderful.
    I'm very happy with this choice as handling has improved without sacrificing ride quality!

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    568
    My Cars
    02 530i, 70 Cuda 440-6
    Thank you cnn for the DIY. Just did my 2002 530I and I went with Sachs sport shocks and Vogtland springs. I'm very happy with this combination.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •