broken ignition cylinder?!?

[Newfangle9]

I think this is my first post here. Been lurking a long time. I'm having some weirdness with my 95 530i steering lock assembly. After a lot of looking around I found this
https://www.amazon.com/Bross-Ignitio...PH7PB199FSWA19
Just got it yesterday so I haven't had a chance to look at anything yet, but I'm hoping I can just replace the shaft while the assembly is on the the car. As long as I have the later assembly like the pics posted above I read that I can grind some metal away from what looks like a little set screw, but is just a pin that can be removed then I can replace the shaft. Don't know if the new part will solve my problem, but at 18.00 with shipping it's worth a try. The new shaft looks to be pretty well made too.

[ross1]

I think this is my first post here. Been lurking a long time. I'm having some weirdness with my 95 530i steering lock assembly. After a lot of looking around I found this
https://www.amazon.com/Bross-Ignitio...PH7PB199FSWA19
Just got it yesterday so I haven't had a chance to look at anything yet, but I'm hoping I can just replace the shaft while the assembly is on the the car. As long as I have the later assembly like the pics posted above I read that I can grind some metal away from what looks like a little set screw, but is just a pin that can be removed then I can replace the shaft. Don't know if the new part will solve my problem, but at 18.00 with shipping it's worth a try. The new shaft looks to be pretty well made too.

Not a set screw but serves the same purpose. By breaking away some of the casting around the boss you'll relieve a lot of the friction fit and(worked for me)be able to knock the pin out. NFW you'll do this on the car, plus it's a pain to re-assemble even on the bench. Enjoy!

[Newfangle9]

Thanks for your reply. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to look around in there. I'll see what I can do, but if I need to take the whole assembly off the car then I might as well just replace the whole thing. It is twenty one years old.

[TheStigg]

If you already have the new replacement shaft, then you can do the job in place. All you need to do is remove the lock tumbler and broken broken shaft (be sure to grab the spring on the end of the shaft. Back off the set screws that hold the plastic switch and pull the switch aside. Put some grease on the end of the new shaft to keep the spring in place. Reach in and push the steering lock plate down and guide the new shaft into position. Clock the new shaft and put the plastic switch back on. Insert tumbler and done.

Reverse-action flat tipped snap ring pliers come in real handy for this job:

McMaster-Carr p/n 5773A14 (or Proto or Snap-on "brake key" or "vacuum grip" pliers)

reverse_pliers.jpg

[Newfangle9]

Thanks, I have the day off this Friday, so that will be project day.

[Newfangle9]

Well, I am a bit surprised that I was able to replace the shaft with the lock assembly on the steering shaft. The hardest part really was just getting the tumbler out. It took me a while but once i chiseled some metal away from the pin on the bottom of the assembly it fell out. The shaft still wouldn't come out until I noticed the brake pedal cable. I decided to take it out, and then the shaft pulled right out. It didn't solve all problems, but it was an improvement. I also drilled out the spring to disable the locking mechanism. I don't like the idea that my wheel won't lock, so I ordered the complete assembly and may replace it tomorrow. Just wanted to say that it can be done, and if your problem is just a broken shaft this is an easy and much cheaper repair.

[5mall5nail5]

As it turns out, you can get the individual replacement shaft without buying a whole assembly:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E39-E36-...mtr&rmvSB=true

Attachment 585233

Makes the job much simpler. I bought one to keep as a spare in my toolbox. I've had to do 3 repairs, an e32, e34, & e36.

So, I ordered the replacement shaft piece.. great. How the hell do you get both halves of the broken one out?!

[Newfangle9]

Not sure, my shaft wasn't broken. Maybe some needle nose pliers or something. My shaft pulled out very easily once the pin underneath and the cable to the brake pedal were removed. There's also a black plastic piece with some metal contact pieces that you have to reinstall on the new shaft. Must be for the brake pedal cable, but it's not difficult either. Was just rethinking this and I'm wondering if maybe the fact I had drilled a 3/8" hole through the bottom of the housing to remove the spring from the locking mechanism prior to removing the shaft might have freed it up some. Replacing the whole housing was something I don't want to do again. There are a couple youtube videos that show how to remove that spring to unlock the steering wheel.

[5mall5nail5]

I decided to just delete the steering wheel lock via the drill method. Once that was out it just took a bunch of wiggling and the remaining piece of the broken shaft rocketed out (there's a spring). Car now starts with a key vs. a screw driver - classy!

[struka]

I decided to just delete the steering wheel lock via the drill method. Once that was out it just took a bunch of wiggling and the remaining piece of the broken shaft rocketed out (there's a spring). Car now starts with a key vs. a screw driver - classy!

DO you have a picture where you drilled to remove the spring?

[LysanderSpooner]

DO you have a picture where you drilled to remove the spring?

I know this is an old thread, but I'd like to know the answer to this too. My lock cylinder shaft just broke, and I've got a new aftermarket one on order. I have no issues disabling the steering lock as it's likely the culprit in the original one breaking in the first place thanks to all the twisting force it can take to get the wheels unlocked such as after cramping a wheel against a curb when parked on a hill. Add the fact that aftermarket one is surely weaker than the already weak OE one and it almost seems worth carrying a spare just in case!

[LysanderSpooner]

If you already have the new replacement shaft, then you can do the job in place. All you need to do is remove the lock tumbler and broken broken shaft (be sure to grab the spring on the end of the shaft. Back off the set screws that hold the plastic switch and pull the switch aside. Put some grease on the end of the new shaft to keep the spring in place. Reach in and push the steering lock plate down and guide the new shaft into position. Clock the new shaft and put the plastic switch back on. Insert tumbler and done.

To anyone reading this post in the future, be aware that some lock cylinders have another safety feature built in, in the form of a small pin that goes vertically into the lock cylinder space from the bottom where the red circle is to prevent easy removal of the lock cylinder shaft:

lock-cylinder.jpg

If you find a '95 E34 at the junkyard and try to remove the shaft without first cutting this pin out, you will break the OE shaft in the process, thus requiring you to purchase a suspect quality aftermarket shaft instead. Ask me how I know...