"6 Series" Do It Yourself (DIY) Write Ups

[jbd5015]

Yes. Best thing to do is to just find something thats as close to the same size as the buffer itself.

I actually found that a 3/8 drive 7/16" socket was a perfect fit. I've used it twice now. First time on my car, and the 2nd time on my friends 85 5er.

I cant remember the length of the bolt I used, but im pretty sure it was an M8 (or the closest SAE equivalent).

It's an effective yet inexpensive fix. Once you have the parts in your hands youll be able to see what kind of parts you need.

-Jeff

[Seeker]

until we get a subforum.. heres a few I made up.. one's for an E36

DIY 92/93 E36 Window / Sunroof Relay Fix

DIY E24 Rear Wheel Arch Rust Repair Saga
DIY E24 Front Bumper Shock Compression
DIY E24 Turn Signal Relay Repair
DIY '85+ E24 Injector Replacement / Upgrade

[stoner]

Hey all, lets remember not to use this thread for asking questions, posting new problems or any other BS. This is a DIY forum where people have taken the time to post specific diagrams or photos on how to repair specific fixes for the 6er. If you have a question concerning a certain post or DIY, PM it to the original poster. Don't post your questions for everyone to see and don't post a question that could be anwered in the general topics area. This is a specialized area where the original poster, OP, has taken the time to diagram, detail and photograph a specific fix or repair for a specific area on our 6er. Do not cloud this area with posts concerning costs or any other impervious matter. Happy New Year Y'all. Sorry for posting this but just want to see facts here an not general posts or questions. This should be a hard core general how to and not a topical how do I do such and such, if you get my drift.
Regards,

Dwight

[landshark89]

i have a 89 bmw 635, just put some power steering fluid, but it still whine when i turn the steering wheel from side to side. new to this form and new to this car. my project car. any advice? also i had it park, and running for 20mins, THEN it just shut off? i try to restart it, it would just crank over, 5 mins later.... it started right up again? anybody know whats going on? email me at dkempire69@yahoo.com

[dkp77]

Thanks RocketJohn for the "How To", huge help, just had a slow leak of fuel and after reading this thread I found that the O-ring around the lift pump was stuffed and let fuel seep out when the tank was full. Only thing different was that my lift pump takes a quarter turn anti-clockwise to undo, not the bolts as shown in the pics.

Thanks again, huge help!

Cheers,

Dan

[master6]

Hi forum members,

I have made some recent changes in the DIY repair kit and rebuild service, as of 2-8-13.
Please refer to my DIY link.


I also found a supplier for the internal shaft seal at a lower price, 9.5mm I.D. This will take about 8 weeks to manufacture.

Then I will have the interior replacement parts, a repair kit, for the brake servo/booster.

Here is the photo link to the DIY re-build.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NpZDRQVHlGal9n


I also added a new helpfull hint for the re-build.
Where the grub screw, screws into the booster cylinder there can be a burr created by the grub screw, on the interior. This burr can cut the 38mm O-ring, and also damage the 2 white high pressure teflon piston rings.
Thanks to (tn).

[master6]

Hi Forum Members,

I have made some recent changes in the DIY repair kit and rebuild service, as of 2-8-13.
Please refer to my DIY link.

For the following cars, with hydraulic brake servo boosters, and ABS.

e23, 728,730,732,733,735,745;
e24, 628,633,635,m635,m6,L6;
e28, 525,528,533,535,m535,m5;
e32, 730,735,750;

e24,e28,e32(735) is Part # 34331156925.
e23 is Part # 34331152825.
e32 750 is Part # 34331161772.

The e23,e24,e28,& the e32(735) share all of the same internal parts, they are identical, for my 7 piece repair kit.

The e32 750 has been upgraded. The usual o-ring at the firewall end, is now a shaft seal.
This shaft seal is slightly more expensive.

I recently rebuilt another hydraulic brake servo booster, and I was amazed at how the rubber o-rings were deformed. They are now an oblong shape. The large o-ring 38.0mm x 3.0mm, at the front of the booster. It now measures 2.55mm high instead of 3mm. And is 3.28mm thick, were it should be again be 3.0mm. And it is noticeably more brittle. The smallest o-ring was brittle and it broke when removed.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NpZDRQVHlGal9n

BOOSTER REBUILD SERVICE

e32 750 booster to rebuild, refer to my DIY link.

REBUILD SERVICE WITH CORE

I have a spare e32 750 booster, refer to my DIY link.

Just send me an e-mail at jay_c_stratton@hotmail.com

[Deltaguy]

Great stuff. I think this write up section is missing some much information. Have all the e24 owners just not visiting here and contributing?

[NOLA6]

Great stuff. I think this write up section is missing some much information. Have all the e24 owners just not visiting here and contributing?

I tend to search the full e24 forum when I have a specific problem, so I tend to post there as well. Like this one on cleaning window switches: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=window+switch

[Golump]

I can't see the pics??

[AlexTheBeaner]

I wish I found this when I fixed mine, would've been so much helpful. but it's good now, will change the fuel pump today!

Having gone through this many times with some people, and having gone thought it myself quite a few times, I've made a write up with some photos on some of the biggest issues and solutions with the sheetmetal shifter on the 6ers.

First for some background information. This write-up is going to apply mostly to '85 5 speeds, or any car that has had the Getrag 265 5 speed swapped into their car. I do touch on some of the issues that I see with the aluminum style shifter found on the '86 - '89 5 speed cars (or the 260/6 transmission).

So here is what the assembly looks like:



There is a lot going on there, but I'm going to try and break it down for you. First I'm going to address what kind of 'slop' most people find in these cars. There is what I call 'Side to Side' slop and 'Front to Back' slop. 'Side to Side' is the slop you have in the shifter when moving it left to right. 'Front to Back' is what you get when moving it towards the front of the car and towards the back.

The next images are going to deal exclusively with the slop found on the Sheet Metal shifter.











This is how I've dealt with the Stop Buffer issue. It's a very easy and CHEAP modification. I will warn people that after this modification is in place, you will notice that you can 'feel' more of whats going on with vibrations, etc. I personally like it, but thats me.



Here are some issues I find with the Aluminum Shifter:



Now I dont have any 'quick' fixes for the aluminum shifter. I personally think it's an inferior design that is harder to fix or make as solid as I have made the sheet metal shifter.

Also, take all of this as you will. A lot of people arent comfortable putting something not from the factory into their car. This was just my approach to solving a design flaw (well, at least it's a flaw to me!)

cheers,

-Jeff

[Kenneth1948]

I can't see the diagrams on my screen, they are fuzzy and in the background. Is there a way to view them?

[master6]

I can't see the diagrams on my screen, they are fuzzy and in the background. Is there a way to view them?

Kenneth,

That is a Photo Bucket problem, That is why I use Picasa Google for my websites, see the links in my footer,

Best,