My lifter pump was worn out so I decided to replace everything back there.
All of these fuel parts are for a 1985 BMW 635CSi.
1) In tank lifter fuel pump
2) High pressure fuel pump
3) New gaskets for fuel pump in tank and sender unit
4) Two sizes fo hoses in diameter 8mm and 12mm (2 meters of each, and I had about 2 feet left over on each)
5) Hose cutter (Plumbing section of Lowes of The Home Depot - $12)
6) BMW hose clamps for 8mm (qty 8) and 12 mm (qty 2) fuel hose
I replaced my fuel filter two months ago, so no need for that to be replaced right now, but you would want to do this too if its been more than say 15k miles...
Disconnect negative terminal of battery
Open trunk
Remove carpet floor liner
remove rear wheel on passenger side, put on jack stand, keep jack with tension, just in case
Remove access panel in trunk
3 phillip head screws
unplug both electrical connections, they pull straight off no locking mechanisms
cut these hose clamps off, I dislike these... no reusable
remove 12mm main fuel supply
remove 8 mm return fuel supply
unbolt sending unit first - 4 x 8mm nuts
then unbolt the 6 x 8 mm screws with washers for the lift pump assembly
24 year old lift pump / brand new lift pump
inside tank- clean the surround area carefully
Pull hoses from tank area, let them drain, begin dissassembly of pump filter area
unbolt fuel pump/filter assembly (10mm) above right rear axle, and then undo electrical connection to fuel pump. 7mm for one side, 8mm for other.
the clamp that holds them together is held by 8 mm screws and nuts, evident when you remove it.
NOTE: Keep track of which line is the return line versus the main feed line towards the engine compartment, I don't know how consistent this is from year to year or E24/E28/E23. My 1985 E24 635CSi was on the inside, return on outside, see next 2 pics.
Remove all old rubber fuel hoses, and replace with new hoses cut to size with new clamps.
finished product
refeed new hoses from the underside to the tank, only one pathway, feed 12mm first then 8mm.
rebolt in via reversal of process above the new lifter assembly and sender unit. I'm missing one 8mm nut in this picture. Remember to reattach two electrical connections.
Reattach cover access plate, trunk carpet, and rear wheel.
Test...
Feels like I have 25-40hp more with new pumps that work.
Last edited by RocketJohn; 11-19-2015 at 04:36 PM. Reason: Pic links were dead.
Awesome write-up! Were you getting symptoms of a failing pump before you changed them or did one just die all of a sudden? My 535is has developed a pretty funky idle and I went through the intake and vacuum hoses last week and didn't find anything... Have not hooked up an inline pressure gauge yet but that's the next step. It's making some noise too...
'88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 951 /// '98 E430 /// '02 M5
Thanks... It's not a hard thing to do, but I never saw a write up and figured it might motivate some of us to do this change out...
Everyone, remember to wear gloves and I'm not responsible for your mess ups and all that other goobily goppily legal crap...
Symptoms?
Intermittent loud main fuel pump sound. Really loud.
Hard acceleration in heavy-G turns, loss of power.
Full throttle application, top gear, high speed, not smooth fuel delivery.
After doing the research on common ailments related to fuel pumps in all the forums you and I are members of, confirmed my assessment of the lift pump.
Car feels like I just bolted on 30-40hp... smooth smooth power delivery, no stumbling... quiet quiet quiet main fuel pump...
But to go through all that to replace one if not both pumps, I assumed my fuel lines would need replacement, and I knew I'd need new clamps to replace the terrible non-screw down kind, but I was actually impressed with the hose quality 24 years in... no hard brittle feel, no noticable leaks or cracks, but my car has been garaged its entire life on the west coast... I was there, the hose was cheap, so I replaced them.
All parts purchased from Rocky Mountain ( http://www.rmeuropean.com ) European parts and due to my spend load, free 2 day shipping...
Here's to another 24 years!
Thank you! I wish all "how to" write-ups were this good... 'cause I'm a dummy.
I think we should somehow reward the efforts of those who post these great, clear, idiot-proof, photo based guides. For example, everyone who actually uses the guide could voluntarily paypal you $1 or something like that.
I know I am new here, don't mean to rock the das boot, just an idea to encourage more posts like this.
Last edited by jrundell; 07-24-2009 at 04:18 PM.
Great write up, John! This should be a beneficial reference thread for years to come.
PS: It's always nice to "feel" a difference after a maintenance job like this. Especially a 30-40hp one!
Jim
Excellent!
I need to do this to my six. Perfect timing.
Any fool can make a rule, and any fool will mind it.
Henry David Thoreau
Ride fast, safety last.
AWESOME! Thx for this one. I bought my 1977 630csi with seller claiming it only needed fuel pump....which he gave to me. i just havent gotten around to doing it yet. i want to drop the whole tank and "rinse" it out first. thx again.
There is a noise coming from the back right of the car. I don't know if it's coming from under the rear seat or from the fuel pump. I hear it every few mins, it sounds like 2 coins being touched together. It's a high pitch 'ding' noise.
Could this be the fuel pump going bad or could this be one of the AC parts under the seat?
you have a 88 5spd? luuuuucky
Currently looking for e24. PM me if you see anything interesting.
Also, looking for my old car. Sold it in 2014 to someone in Northern CA. He sold it shortly thereafter and doesn't remember to who. It was a bronzit '85 euro, lowered, headlight wipers/washers (that worked!), rear black spoiler, 5 speed, nutria interior (however i removed original buffalo leather interior and replaced with manual sport seats (front and rear).
ugh, i've replaced my fuel pumps 3 times, i could do it with my eyes closed now. i hope i don't ever have to do it again!
2004 Monaro CV8
2006 Range Rover Supercharged
1984 BMW 633CSi
1981 Scirocco S
its not hard, just takes some time, but all of that took me 3 hours and that was taking pics, setup and cleanup... and if you weren't replacing hoses and clamps, its a quick endeavor.
Brilliant! Thanks for the info, I'm about to change mine, so this will come in very handy.
I don't know if it works with my 6, but I used an aftermarket pump from Summit Racing for my SpecE30 racecar. I don't even need the external pump anymore, but I run both of them anyway. The pump was a high output model designed for a Ford Mustang. I had to adapt the in tank pump assembly for it, but it works great. No more power loss in hard turns.
Hi Guys,
Have at it.
2008 Alpine White, Portland Brown ///M5 (SMG)
2008 Alpine White, Fox Red ///M3 (6MT)
2008 Sapphire Black, Black 750Li
2010 Alpine White, GT550i
thanks! is it possible to creat a subforum with these?
also any way you could move the fuel pump install into this?
Currently looking for e24. PM me if you see anything interesting.
Also, looking for my old car. Sold it in 2014 to someone in Northern CA. He sold it shortly thereafter and doesn't remember to who. It was a bronzit '85 euro, lowered, headlight wipers/washers (that worked!), rear black spoiler, 5 speed, nutria interior (however i removed original buffalo leather interior and replaced with manual sport seats (front and rear).
Problem: a low current of hot air comes out at the driver and passenger feet vents, as well as up top by the windshield. The heater core valve leaks and lets coolant get into the heater core. the valve should completely close off. from what I've heard, it's a common problem in the 6 series.
Solution:
1. buy the cheaper of these 2 items. you don't need to spend $300 on an entire new casing, just get the $40 part. http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ontrol%20Valve
2. open the hood and look on the driver's side firewall by the master cylinder. you will find the heater core valve, it has 4 philips screws on the top and a plug with 2 contacts on it.
3. unplug the plug.
4. loosen the 2 bolts on the side with a socket wrench so you can pull it away from the firewall to access the four screws easier. you don't have to take the bolts out all the way.
5. unscrew the 4 screws and take out the heater core valve and it's casing.
6. slide out the old heater core and slide the new on in.
7. put everything back together.
Henry
actually the main problem with this is you have NO heat while moving, you'll have heat when not moving but as soon as you start to you lose it
Currently looking for e24. PM me if you see anything interesting.
Also, looking for my old car. Sold it in 2014 to someone in Northern CA. He sold it shortly thereafter and doesn't remember to who. It was a bronzit '85 euro, lowered, headlight wipers/washers (that worked!), rear black spoiler, 5 speed, nutria interior (however i removed original buffalo leather interior and replaced with manual sport seats (front and rear).
Actually I've had the same problem, I assumed it was the heater core valve. I just disconnected the lines to the heater core until I got around to doing this.
Thanks cleeves, I will get started on this as soon as summer ends!
Don't want to rain on anyones parade, but a sub forum for the write-ups would be much better. I like this idea but in its current configuration it does not solve the problem of having to sift through a bunch of posts to find what you want. Just my $.02
1988 M6, 69,000 miles
Currently looking for e24. PM me if you see anything interesting.
Also, looking for my old car. Sold it in 2014 to someone in Northern CA. He sold it shortly thereafter and doesn't remember to who. It was a bronzit '85 euro, lowered, headlight wipers/washers (that worked!), rear black spoiler, 5 speed, nutria interior (however i removed original buffalo leather interior and replaced with manual sport seats (front and rear).
Is your rear window stuck in the down position? The first thing you want to do is check the switch. If that's ok, then try this:
These instructions will help you get it back to the raised position. Also, there is a good chance that once you move it off the bottom position, the electric motor will kick in again.
These were posted by alpinacsi:
most likely a switch but as per the owners manual:
1) remove the sealing cap from the side trim
2) attach handle (from screwdriver) to allen key and fit to [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]adapter[/COLOR][/COLOR]
3) turn allen screw clockwise until it cannot be moved any further
4) place [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]spark [COLOR=blue !important]plug[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]wrench[/COLOR][/COLOR] on the hexagon and turn in the required direction with the bar
5) unscrew the allen screw counterclockwise by app 2 turns. this wll retain the glass in the position chosen
All tools needed are in the factory tool kit.
2003 M5
2007 X3 6MT
Hi! I'm new at Bimmer Forum and would like to post some pics of my car, but don't know how yet. Anyway, I need some information on how to adjust the valves. Anybody out there that has any in info, I'd really appreciate it. Hope to make some friends here. I always liked this car and finally was able to get one in 2002. A Euro model, it's great. As a matter of fact I found out on this forum on how to change the fuel hoses from the top of the tank. Thanks, James
I want to thak you for your info on fuel lines. Today I changed the lines at the bottomof the tank, but did not know how to change the fuel tank lines. Do you have any info on adjusting the valves on the 635CSI? It would be a great help!! And how do I add my photos? Jim
Last edited by jhill144; 10-04-2009 at 02:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Hi Jim and welcome. To post pictures of your car you need to get your post count up over 15 or so then you will be allowed. What year is your Euro? I have a 88 635CSi that was brought into Canada from Switzerland back in 2005. It was (and still is) kept very well.
I could do a DIY write up on adjusting the valves. I have a M30 on my engine stand right now so it would be easy to take pictures and all. Problem is I wouldn't attach it to the end of this fuel pump DIY. It should go in it's own thread. Gimme a week or so and see what I can come up with.
Mine: 1988 635CSi Euro in Diamantschwarz Metallic, 1989 ALPINA B10 3.5 in Alpineweiss II, 1981 528i in Kastanienrot-Metallic, 1958 Isetta 300 currently in rust repair
In the family: 1958 Isetta 300 in Federweiss/Pastellblau, 1987 635CSi, 2000 M5
My YouTube Channel
Having gone through this many times with some people, and having gone thought it myself quite a few times, I've made a write up with some photos on some of the biggest issues and solutions with the sheetmetal shifter on the 6ers.
First for some background information. This write-up is going to apply mostly to '85 5 speeds, or any car that has had the Getrag 265 5 speed swapped into their car. I do touch on some of the issues that I see with the aluminum style shifter found on the '86 - '89 5 speed cars (or the 260/6 transmission).
So here is what the assembly looks like:
There is a lot going on there, but I'm going to try and break it down for you. First I'm going to address what kind of 'slop' most people find in these cars. There is what I call 'Side to Side' slop and 'Front to Back' slop. 'Side to Side' is the slop you have in the shifter when moving it left to right. 'Front to Back' is what you get when moving it towards the front of the car and towards the back.
The next images are going to deal exclusively with the slop found on the Sheet Metal shifter.
This is how I've dealt with the Stop Buffer issue. It's a very easy and CHEAP modification. I will warn people that after this modification is in place, you will notice that you can 'feel' more of whats going on with vibrations, etc. I personally like it, but thats me.
Here are some issues I find with the Aluminum Shifter:
Now I dont have any 'quick' fixes for the aluminum shifter. I personally think it's an inferior design that is harder to fix or make as solid as I have made the sheet metal shifter.
Also, take all of this as you will. A lot of people arent comfortable putting something not from the factory into their car. This was just my approach to solving a design flaw (well, at least it's a flaw to me!)
cheers,
-Jeff
Last edited by jbd5015; 11-05-2009 at 01:44 PM.
1983 633csi a.k.a. Wolfie - M30B35 Swap - Getrag 265 - 3.73LSD
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