Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Rear 735il Window troubles

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    gilbert, az
    Posts
    9
    My Cars
    1992 735il

    Rear 735il Window troubles

    1992 735il... drivers side rear window is stuck about 3/4 up...no grinding or for that matter nothing is happening with either the main window switch or the rear door switch depressed. I have tried the move the window manually with either switch depressed and it won't budge...I'm thinking its an electrical issue....any ideas???

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sacramento
    Posts
    932
    My Cars
    325is, 540i, M3, 2002
    I had any issue sorta similar with my e36. my divers side window regulator went out so I had to buy a new regulator. the regulator going out on the e36s is pretty common so I assume it probably would be common for any bmw around that year range. I ended up having to take the door panel off and manually move the window by hand.

    you might want to take the door panel off that door and just move the window up like I did. At least the window will be up and you can test the wires and make sure they are getting power and you can visually see if the motor is turning. that might not help you too much but thats where I would start.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,720
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    yep, probably the window regulator, you have to remove the door panel and have a look. Instructions for that are linked on my website below, under lots of DIY>>>private DIY links>>>>Johan and Sean under body and interior.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    gilbert, az
    Posts
    9
    My Cars
    1992 735il
    Thanks for the quick response..I'll keep you all posted with what I find.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    gilbert, az
    Posts
    9
    My Cars
    1992 735il
    pulled motor out....pushed up window...reinserted motor...magic picksy dust and.....the window works...go figure...must have been jammed.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sacramento
    Posts
    932
    My Cars
    325is, 540i, M3, 2002
    good to hear. better than having to buy a $70 regulator...or a sharp stick in the eye.
    If you still have your door panel off you might want to put some lithium grease on the rail and the plastic slider piece so it wonlt jam up again.
    Last edited by nateb603; 09-03-2009 at 06:37 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    California
    Posts
    185
    My Cars
    1988 BMW 735i
    I have the same issue with my rear window as well. It goes down but wont go back up. haha. I find it kinda funny.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,720
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    check the wire loom, see Kabelbruch Tuer links hinten in the index
    updated link, https://bmwe32.pagaduan.org/
    Last edited by shogun; 10-20-2020 at 10:08 PM. Reason: link update
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Miami, FL, USA
    Posts
    132
    My Cars
    1988 BMW 735i
    I have a similar problem but my rear window will not go down

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,720
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    the only way to check is to get the door panels off. Maybe it is just a window regulator which costs you $2

    or the limit switch at the motor is defective, or something else. But without checking = no repair
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Boca Raton, Florida
    Posts
    1,558
    My Cars
    89'750iL,98'740iL,00'M5
    Same problem here, but the window motor clicks when I hit the switch but no grind or anything. Ill check out what was said above.


    Since were on topic, my drivers side window makes a grindnig sound everytime It goes down past a certain point and jams, can that be a worn out motor gear? Lots of $$$?

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
    1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,720
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    if the motor clicks and nothing moves, that can also be a misaligned limit switch near the motor, or the motor requires too much power = windowd regulator defective or must be greased.
    A used window motor is not that expensive. Check the half moon toothed rim on the window mechanism, maybe some tooth are missing.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Boca Raton, Florida
    Posts
    1,558
    My Cars
    89'750iL,98'740iL,00'M5
    Ok thanks Shogun, ill check that out. Hopefully its just the gear that can be replaced

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
    1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    1993 740iL

    Strange but true..

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    I realize this is an ancient thread, but for people like myself that are searching for answers, this (as well as another strange issue) happened to me too. The link included above is no longer valid, but some of the pictures can be seen if you look use archive.org to see a previous state of the website.

    The problem I had (same as what was in the link), is that somehow one of the window motor wires was broken within the wrapped harness, even though the harness looked perfectly intact and didn't show any external damage or distress. It actually appeared the door card/panel had never been off the car. After a lot of very confusing troubleshooting which included testing the motor directly (it worked), the key for me was to disconnect the harness at the B pillar and test continuity between that point and motor connector. I had no continuity, so I proceeded to unwrap the harness and found the break at the same Y junction shown in the linked pics.

    To make things even stranger, the other rear door window didn't work either, so I figured maybe it was the same problem (It had the same symptoms as the other door, I could hear a faint click when using the switch but no movement). Nope. One of the screws for the motor case that attaches to the plastic body was stripped out. When attempting to engage the motor, it would push against the case, slightly opening it up, and causing the motor to bind. I could hold the case tight against the plastic body and it would work fine... My fix was to tap a slightly larger size and use a new screw.

    First post. Hope this is useful and helps somebody in the future! This site has been invaluable to me trying to sort out all the gremlins in this car.

    93 740iL

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,720
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    good info, thanks here is the updated link with working pics https://bmwe32.pagaduan.org/ click on the left index Kabelbruch Tuer links hinten

    and for front window this is the place to check, from A-pillar to door
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by shogun; 10-20-2020 at 10:17 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •