I drove my M3 two days ago and everything seem fine, I was playing CD for a while. Parked the car over night and started it the next morning to go to work and it seem to start slow like the battery was not charged. Checked with a volt meter and I was showing 14 volts across the battery so the ALT was charging, later that day the car wouldn't start. Charged the battery over night and it started fine. Next day, dead again. I checked for a draw and found that the CD changer in the trunk was draining the battery, I ejected the disc pack out of the changer and no more battery draw. Did anyone else every had this problem, do I need a new CD changer? This is CRAZY LOL.
CRUISER
Don't mean to be a jerk (ok, maybe I mean it a little), but if you got sick while driving would you ask BF.c to diagnose you?
Your CD player is either broken or installed incorrectly. Remove, repair, or replace.
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Gac's the name. Seriously.
I drive a Metallic Fern Green 1998 BMW M3 Convertible with a hard top. I just rolled over 67k, and I rate the current appearance of the car as 7.8/10, pending repair of some trim pieces. I rate the drive condition as a 7.1/10 until I figure out why my clutch gets into a "slippy mood" evey few months. It is bone-dry stock, except for a modern head unit and slotted/dimpled rotors and ceramic pads. I like it this way. It is awesome.
That is all. Carry on.
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um, are you still on the original battery? the battery just could be at the end of its life and not holding a charge for very long...you said it started after being charged over night, but how long between when you took off the charger and when you started the car? Have you tried putting the disc pack back in? Perhaps the disc pack was jammed in some way causing it to keep running?
Try the CD again and see if you get the same results. Also get your battery checked (some chargers have a check function or bring to an auto parts store).
Current: 2011 X3 35i M-Sport, Deep Sea Blue Metallic, Oyster Napa interior, Afe intake, RaceChip Ultimate.
Past: 1998 M3 sedan, Cosmos Schwartz Metallic, Black interior, Euro 6-speed, AA Stage II TwinScrew supercharger, and a bunch of other mods.
I got a new battery and I put the disk pack back in and there is still a draw across the battery. I got the pack out for now. I put this thread out there so just in case people are have a draw problem this is another thing to look for just in case you were wondering GACATTACK. E.L.E Dude.
CRUISER
bumping an ancient thread here. I wanted to thank Crusier for putting up this thread. I just had the exact same problem and finding this gave me some peace of mind that I wasn't losing it.
Basically my battery died after a short trip into town. Got a jump, came home, tested the voltage with car running before shutting down ~14V confirming alternator was doing its thing. Shut her down. Battery showed ~12.5V after a short while. Was a little puzzled/figured previous owner didn't drive the car much and maybe the 3yr old battery was dying early/my short drive didn't give it enough time to recharge. Go to lock the car and the central locking system doesn't work. So I think.. ah hah.. maybe it is flexi trunk cable shorting out. I tear that thing apart since I had found 2 wires with broken insulation and had previously taped them (I really need to order the repair harness).. no other broken wires. I retape the 2 wires. Central locking system works again. Figure there must have been a draw on the system from a short. Maybe battery isn't dying? Next morning I test the battery and it is down to ~10.5V. Crap! Figure I'll need to go buy a battery.
Fast forward to new battery going in. I figure I better test current draw on the car before leaving new battery sitting there in case there is a short in the flexi trunk cable (only area I had reason to suspect)... I hook my DMM in series with the negative terminal. Sure enough there is a 0.30A draw (trunk light bulb removed, doors closed). Then I realize the CD DISC CHANGER is cycling through the cartridge. I have an Alpine head unit and the CD changer is not in use - no aftermarket amps/etc. I come inside, find this thread.. go back outside, hook up battery through DMM, confirm again the 0.3A with the changer cycling... remove the cartridge and voila! 0.01A draw now.
My question is - What could cause the CD changer to suddenly start doing this? Has anyone found the root cause? I suspect somewhere else there is a wire that is providing constant power to the CD changer.. I doubt this would be its failure mode when not in use? Curious if it is prudent that I start searching elsewhere... Would love to hear Cruiser's input if he is still on this forum 7 yrs later.
- - - Updated - - -
BTW - For anyone checking PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW. For completeness:
-Disconnect your negative battery cable at the battery
-Set your DMM to 10A DC (always start with large range) + move the DMM leads to the correct position to use this setting
-Touch DMM Positive lead to chassis Black/Negative Wire
-Touch DMM Negative lead to battery negative post
Beware - this puts your DMM in series with any current being drawn by your vehicle. This is meant for diagnosis only/do not start your vehicle with the DMM in series this way.
Last edited by psu325i; 08-14-2016 at 04:11 PM.
'11 328i m-sport, 6spd - bmw performance intake + bmw performance exhaust
Bump, i am interested
Hello Everyone,
I have a 330ci cabrio pre facelift with a H&K system with the small nav screen and CD changer in the trunk.
I lately installed a Bluetooth device for streaming audio and calls from a brand called yatour ( might be no one is heard of it). I use the CD changer connectors to connect. It had no extra wires for the ACC switched power.
Lately i have noticed that the Bluetooth device stays on even after shutting down the car hours ago. so i thought it might be the device and unplugged it and plugged the CD changer back in, the CD changer never goes to sleep.
I have to pull out fuse 7 and 41 if i have to leave the car for more than 2 days. its slowly annoying me.
Any one have some good ideas to fix this?
May be make the fuse 7 or 41 as switched power
or make a switched power just for the CD changer ?
Thanks guys, you have been very helpful in the past, hopefully i can contribute one day or the other with more content of my own.
Cheers
I'm guessing you have an E46 which is likely closer to E39s. On an E39 of mine, it turns out the radio has power all the time, it's not switched with the ignition. The computer buss tells it to shut off, but power is still present. I found all of that out because my radio would sometimes stop working, dead, nothing. And sometimes in the morning with a good battery it would be completely dead. Then no problems for a month or three. Replacing the radio in my case helped, but all was stock. I'm not sure what you need to do, but this might be how your system works.
98 328is
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and decades of owning and driving BMWs
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