David at Syncro Design works designed and made a pipe for the US motors for the Euro coolant tank retrofit that goes around the back of the head. I'm not sure if he made any for sale but I know it's been done. He installed it on his 95 M3. It's been a few years since but maybe if contacted with enough interest he might make more for the public.
I've read over this thread a couple of times now, but looking at my own S52 I'm slightly confused. How is the Euro hardline connected to the back of the water pump neck? It seems everyone has a different way of mounting:
Here is someone who has a short rubber hose connecting the two:
Here is someone with something entirely different:
And mine appears to be a metal heater hose tube heading straight into the back of the water pump neck without any obvious connector, so I'm confused.
Last edited by DrftKingIII; 03-14-2019 at 06:00 PM.
Past: '99 Hellrot/Dove M3 | '97 S14 1JZ | '06 Triumph Daytona 675 | '01 330I M-Tech I | '99 Silvia S15 | Current: '96 Estoril/Black M3
Anyone have a part number for the small cap that has the sensor on it Or a cap without the sensor just to block it off?
Not the big pressure cap.
I find no evidence of it being available other than with the level sensor as a complete assembly.
I believe the screw cap alone may be the same as on the original E36 coolant tank. Of course the sensor isn't the same, since on the E36 it's inverted at the bottom of the coolant tank. Variants of this part are used on lots of BMWs, so you ought to be able to find one off a junked car.
Neil
Last edited by NeilM; 06-13-2019 at 04:02 PM.
deleted
Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:09 PM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
TL;DR
Use the correct level switch, because they are not functionally interchangeable.
Yes it's just a float operated switch, but it's single pole/single throw (SPST) with only two contacts. Swapping the harness wires makes no difference to the switch logic, since there's no inherent polarity.
The E30 style level switch used with the Euro expansion tank is top mounted. For normal coolant level its float rises toward the connector end and the switch contacts are closed, while for low coolant the float drops toward the non connector end and they're open. If you took the same switch and inverted it for the bottom mount E36US coolant tank you'd get a reversed alert. The same error occurs if you try to use the US style inverted level switch on the Euro coolant tank. BMW has two level switches series with opposite logic to match their opposite mounting orientation, and they cannot be substituted for one another.
If you do a parts search in RealOEM you'll see that the E36US inverted level switch (P/N ending in -855) is used in a whole series of cars with the radiator mounted tank, and the top mount switch (P/N ending in -320) is used in a whole series of cars with the Euro-style tank.
Neil
Last edited by NeilM; 06-17-2019 at 10:31 AM.
deleted
Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:09 PM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
deleted
Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:09 PM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
In the old days, car owners were responsible for checking all fluid levels. The old people are dying and the young are too busy with other stuff. So today we have cars that tell you what to do and when to do it. Soon, the cars will do the driving for us.
I am old and know how to do this stuff (I even know how roll up windows work), but the young never had to learn. It might be unwise to suggest they disconnect the devices they have been relying on.
The typical E36 radiator failure is fracture of the plastic neck at the top hose, resulting in immediate loss of most of the coolant and near instant engine overheating. That's 'soft failure'?
Yeah, it's just that their 'proper service life' is a fraction of that in most cars.Bmw cooling systems dont fail if they are changed in proper service life; only a moron owner would treat it like a Honda and expect the cooling system to be durable.
I fitted a high capacity all aluminum PWR radiator back in 2003 and expect it to last indefinitely. It was expensive, and not everyone would want to do that.
Yep, it doesn't seem like a good idea to recommend the deletion of a potentially useful warning function.
Neil
deleted
Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:09 PM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
Gotta bump this . Looking to do this swap again in now an obd2 car .
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.
― George Orwell
Will be doing the simple set up, my car is obd1
Not sure why OP deleted this... Here is a snapshot I was able to find of the original post.
Link
Its a bit slow so be patient.
I also saved a PDF copy so PM if anyone wants it.
Last edited by jb556; 02-11-2021 at 12:52 PM.
Reading thru the commentary that people made and argued over 12 years ago is funny at first but also frustrating!!! so after like post #30 I skipped straight to the end to ask about what the current situation is looking like in finding the euro hard lines as of today ?
AND since everyone added their opinions about this mod and other mods in similar . To the people who cant go to sleep at night and rest their heads easy because they consider themselves as criminals now for deleting the secondary air pump because its illegal under federal law, haha LOL @ yall !! =]
But ya where can I find some hidden overstock for metal hard lines ?
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Last edited by onesikM; 11-01-2022 at 07:31 PM.
You don't want the metal Euro line. It doesn't fit our engine layout properly. Instead, run a length of rubber hose from under the intake, around the back of the head and to the Euro tank. Yes you'll need some hose size and angle adaptors, and no I don't recall exactly what they were (I do have some photos though). You can figure it out. I also ran that hose inside a corrugated metal shield to protect against any abrasion against the firewall or engine.
It's nicer to have the Euro plastic line that runs from the rad across to the passenger side and back to the Euro tank, but it isn't necessary. A length of 6mm ID rubber hose is functionally equivalent, if less visually appealing.
See also post #69 by DaveAZ in this thread, and following discussion. Edit: Also post #140 about the MB hose.
Neil
Last edited by NeilM; 11-02-2022 at 02:23 PM.
I bought my hardline off of Ebay in 2020, it's ~3x more expensive now, and you'll have to wait months for it to ship from Europe. Looks like Schmiedmann has at least one in stock for much less: https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-E...1-53-1-318-403
Mine is still sitting on my shelf and I went with the hose around back/over the transmission, like Neil's recommendation.
Assuming you have the Euro hardline, what would be needed to connect it to the water pump? US style looks completely different. Assuming you could cut the pipe and run hose behind the head from there.
You use an M50/S50 press on fitting with a short section of rubber hose to the euro hardline and 2 clamps.
Does the hard line hold some actual dollar value?
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
Sure, but nothing close to a Lambo.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinwei฿ III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
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But my Lambo isn't sitting in the garage collecting dust.
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
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