Do it on a slope and run heat. Should work since it bleeds itself.
95 BMW M3 Alpine-
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It sounds like a thermostat stuck closed or some other form of blockage. Slope isn't needed as the tank should be the highest point in the system.
During my first fill, I keep filling until it overflows, then with the cap still off I squeeze the hoses. If it doesn't overflow there is still air in there. I then run the car with the heat on to be sure that the core is filled as well. I then close the cap and run it until it has warmed up and the temp needle is in normal running position, indicating that the t'stat is open. I let it cool and check the level. If it is too high, I remove coolant to bring it down to the fill line. Too low, obviously add.
the radiator hoses do fill up with coolant so i wouldnt think it to be a stuck thermostat or am i wrong the radiator hoses do become very hot when the needle starts to go to the hot side
bump
Last edited by 6banger17; 06-05-2012 at 09:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You could remove the T'stat to find out, but Double-check everything before.
I've seen people get the hose routing wrong, especially the small hose.
The cooling system capacity is +/- two gallons depending on which radiator you are using. This is why I am suspecting blockage. I can check the heater core capacity if you'd like, I have a pulled one in my garage.
checked it, took about 1/8 gallon.
Last edited by DaveAZ; 06-05-2012 at 10:17 PM.
thanks Dave but i found out my problem.
the way i had routed the hose caused for the hose to have a high point in the system not letting the tank be the highest point in the system.
Instead of routing to the back of the engine i routed it forward like a previous posted had said this seems that it would work better.
but now i have a separate problem.
instead of relocating the jumper box i just bypassed it by connecting the wires together.
this is what i wrote in another post.
please read i need help if this has happened to any one else.
thanks.
I had to bypass the little jump box in the passenger side where you're "supposed to" jump start the car from. I did this to make room for the "European" overflow tank in doing in doing so I simply connected the wires red to red and black to black this worked perfectly for about 2 days when suddenly boom no electricity. So just to try it out we swapped things around connecting the black cable coming out of the firewall to the red cable going to the harness and the red cable from the firewall to the black cable going to the harness. and now theres electricity all lights work radio dash everything it just wont start. also my electric fan wont turn on but we tested the relay and it good so is the fuse.
ignore my previous post. All is resolved but now back to the overheating.
I routed it the way the user Herb did through the front filled the tank up and turn the car on and the level in the tank does not go down it simply just over heats. Before it gets up to temperature my top and bottom radiator hoses have no pressure at all they just feel empty once it is up to temperature my top radiator hose gets very hot and full. then it slowly creeps to the hot side.
Im beginning to think its something else in the cooling system.
how would i go about testing the thermostat?
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
A couple questions on connectors, and hose routing.
I've been scouring the forum this and others, part vendors and hardware stores. I picked up an E30 expansion bottle, fabricated my own mount, got that squared away. I have a '95, so the expansion tank to block hose doesn't come off the top front of the head but the rear. The hose from the block to expansion tank is 3/4", the hose connector inlet on the e30 expansion bottle is 1".
So far the only hoses I've tried are 1" & 3/4", with a double ended 3/4" union connector (all that I can find locally). I cut a piece of 3/4 for one side of that connector and slipped on the 1" over it and plugged it into the bottle. That doesn't seem entirely stable. This use of a connector, is that really the only way to extend the length around from the bottom left front to the back corner? Are there 3/4" to 1" union pieces out there at other stores? Is the hose connection at the block side, 3/4"?
2011 M3 Dakar Yellow-Black Leather-Comp Pkg-DCT-Dinan Exhaust-AP BBK Front-VOLK RE30/APEX ARC8 10" Square
1995 M3 Boston Green - Chipped - Coilovers - SSR GT3s
Past: 2005 Porsche Boxster S-Silver-6spd-Fabspeed Exhaust
Bimmerpost ID: FR01
deleted
Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:07 PM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
I don't remember exact hose sizes, but I know exactly what you're talking about. I found in Autozone sections of hoses that were (don't know exact sizes, but for example), 3/4" enlarging to 7/8" and then another that was like 7/8" to 1" and then a plastic adapter to connect them. Just so happened that they had the perfect curves in them the way I cut them down, and it ended up working perfectly. Hope this helps somehow someway for you
I think the stock expansion tank hose for a 96-99 E36M3 is 3/4 in the body by 1 inch at the ends. You may be able to use a section from it. I have the Euro hard pipe and use a short section of the stock hose to connect the hardpipe to the Euro/E30 tank.
I don't know what hose is used on a 95, but if it is shorter, maybe the early hose would work if it is longer. All M3s have the outlet at the driver's side rear corner of the head, but at least on my 99M3, it goes to the heater control valve (which has several hoses going to it even though the heater circuit to the passenger cabin obviously has only an inlet and an outlet). I never thought about reconfiguring the stock water flow routing somehow so I could connect that port on the back of the head to the expansion tank.
Im in the process of getting all the components to do this mod but am wondering if there was anyway you could convert the water lines to stainless steel braided lines? Wouldn't it last a lot longer? I know you would have to modify the hard lines to connect them but wouldn't it have fewer issues down the road
I would bother doing this only if you were not running the Euro hardpipe. The stock hose, reversed to run behind the engine, comes up only about 6 inches short. BMW thought the long stock hose was fine. I am not sure another 6 inches matters. Beware that braided hose can saw through other stuff. It needs to be carefully routed.
With the Euro hardpipe, the only long hose is the vent line and the Euro kit uses a hard plastic line for most of that length. The hose from the hardpipe to the reservoir in the 12 inch range.
I have had no trouble with my stock installation Euro kit in 4 years.
What is the part number for just the euro pipe? A lot of these part numbers on these write ups are just clamps for piping.So its just one hardpipe that basically runs behind the motor?
Last edited by eclipseguy; 10-17-2013 at 09:45 PM.
sorry for bumping such an old thread, but I searched and didn't see a clear-cut answer to my question.
Does the US/OEM coolant level sensor on the bottom of the expansion tank fit the euro expansion tank, or do I need to by a different (euro) sensor? I read about extending the wiring, which makes sense and about people using the sensor on their OEM e30 tank, but didn't know if the >96 e36 sensors will bolt right up to the tank.
TIA!
See my corrected post above.
Parts are #15 and #26 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...02&hg=17&fg=05
As a Euro part it's special order, but I believe Bimmerworld may have them. I got mine as part of a kit from them.
Neil
thanks.
- - - Updated - - -
looks like realoem has two part numbers. Looking on ECS's website they have detailed pics of both parts and they are different.
Just want to make sure I order the correct one.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...0421/ES166849/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...0458/ES168092/
What happens if you use an E30 float switch? I did this so long ago that I cannot remember the details, but think I bought a kit from Bimmerworld.
I ordered the first one when I did mine, and while it works, the connector is different from the one on the car. I just made my own connector with a few butt connectors, but that's not exactly the cleanest option. It looks like the second option will plug right in, so I would go that route.
Yeah, according to RealOEM the -0458 replaced the -0421 from 3/96 production. They're shown as the same length, 109mm, so should be interchangeable other than the connector. The one I'm using is apparently the -0421 (came with BW kit), identifiable by its exposed connector pins. I did the same thing as you with the improvised connectors.
DSC01471-sm-R.jpg
Neil
Last edited by NeilM; 04-03-2014 at 01:40 PM. Reason: Improved photo quality
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