I know, but it's a bit close to the headers for my taste. Guess I could lead the overflow tube across the back of the head to the intake side someplace.
Of course when the US cooling system overheats it'll vent coolant all over the engine compartment, so I guess that anything would be an improvement.
Neil
One thing I came across which I found interesting is that NASA specifies a 1 liter (I think) catch can is used. Of course for HPDE they don't care and they may not even me strict about that for racers but it was interesting nonetheless. One option is to use one of those cheap aluminum water bottles that are very common, tall and thin, and not too expensive. A small gatorade bottle works too
Last edited by Mr Estoril; 01-28-2011 at 09:43 AM.
Joe
I had thought so, too. I was amazed by how much more difficult everyone on the forum made this out to be. I paid a mechanic $40.00 to help me with this because I was expecting to have to pull the intake manifold. I ended up doing everything except welding the mounts myself. As others have pointed out, I could have drilled/riveted that myself as well.
That, plus the wasted box of hoses that I can throw away.
It also took me an hour on the TIS to find this part number:
Originally Posted by DaveAZ
Everyone who did it made their own, but BMW has one for $6.00 to save all that time & effort.
deleted
Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:07 PM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
That part comes on US cars as well, but only on M52/S52 ie obd-II cars.
If I'm not mistaken SAP or whatever go in that corner precluding the battery post being placed in the location it is for earlier cars.
Searching for parts can be challenging. In this case, that bracket is not a welded on part that is part of the body, so you don't find it with the collection of fender brackets where you'd expect it, you find it in the battery cable section with electrics. It sort of makes sense in a way, but its not intuitive either.
I have a few of these if anyone needs one overnight. I keep them in stock as part of the S54 transplant program. Make sure to get the plastic inserts that pop into the square pre-punched holes in the fender wall, makes installation a lot easier.
The typical Euro M3 car used this part: 41118153757 which did come welded to the fender it seems there are other options as well. For us, not having to weld, and just use the inserts and screws seems best, but I think you lose the bracket that holds down washer and wire lines to the hood. Not a big deal.
Have fun parts-searching!
Alex Lipowich
xyobgyn on AOL
Trying to make the world a better place with 5 extra throttle bodies at a time.
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Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:07 PM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
For Alex or anyone else who knows:
With a 1995 (terminal right in the way of the Euro tank) do you need to lengthen the battery cable or get an OBD-II battery cable in order to have the terminal reach the new bracket?
Last edited by nucci; 01-31-2011 at 12:35 PM.
Matt Nucci
6/94 E36 M3 Cosmos CP
Scroll down this page to where they do it. They buy/make terminal end extensions. On mine I just unbolted it and pushed it down out of the way.
http://www.racepad.com/proj/racepad_...or_project.htm
I ran into an issue with my install.
The Euro BMW uses coolant lever sensor part # 61318360458.
The E30 uses coolant level sensor part # 61311378320.
Apparently the two have different resistance values and are not interchangable. MY E30 tank had a used one in it that wasn't responding properly, so I bout a new E30 one and that still does not work.
Do any electrical geniuses know if I can put a resistor in-line to make this sensor work? I guess I can try to compare the resistance of the regular E36 one to the E30 one as a starting point when I have a chance.
the coolant sensors should be a straight open/closed sensor - sometimes the sensors need a certain amount of coolant to flip the switch (water doesn't have enough conductivity for them). put one of the sensors in aglass of water and read the resistance in & out of the water - you should see open one way and closed the other way - maybe it's backwards from the e30 to the euro/e36 switch?
I am doing this mod and installing it in front of the passenger strut tower on my '95, what exactly is the reason for the 3/4 inline connector? If the hose is 3/4 before and after the connector I'm not sure why it's there.
The 3/4" straight connector was to re-use the bent hose at the point of connection to the bottle. If your location doesn't need it (Since you are not putting it in the stock Euro spot) you may not need it.
deleted
Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:07 PM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
How does the front bracket mount to the tank? Am I missing something off the tank (e30), I don't see how the two screws with nuts play into mounting or the single vertical screw? See pics of 41112491298 I received. Wan, your bracket pics don't load.
TIA
Herb
BMPR STKR: Real racers go LEFT and RIGHT.... So tru! Twins at heart.M
'93 325is-Sold/'03 WRX-Sold/'04 RX-8-Sold/'92 525iA-TotaledSold/'90 e30s52-Sold/'96 328i-TotaledSold/'95 525iM-Sold
Last edited by DaveAZ; 02-02-2012 at 08:22 PM.
Thank guys, I found the part on realoem under the tank diagram. And the pics you just provided helps a lot. The tank has been in the car for two weeks now, I had a rolled up piece of cardboard to keep it level.
As for the hoses, the bottom rad hose I just ran it the normal e36 route and curved it against the passenger fender, instead of behind the head along the firewall.
Fill and forget, love it. I think I have wased more coolant bleeding m5X systems than I have actually lost from a failure!
BMPR STKR: Real racers go LEFT and RIGHT.... So tru! Twins at heart.M
'93 325is-Sold/'03 WRX-Sold/'04 RX-8-Sold/'92 525iA-TotaledSold/'90 e30s52-Sold/'96 328i-TotaledSold/'95 525iM-Sold
When you have a chance, please take a pic of the hose routing that you are describing. Are you saying that you added a piece from where it formerly attached to the old expansion tank and ran it back along the inside of the passenger wheel well?
I will, and yes. I actually have multiple fittings, but I have to replace my wp (only a year old ), so when I do that I will get one long piece for both the upper and lower tank feeds and route them as is.
BMPR STKR: Real racers go LEFT and RIGHT.... So tru! Twins at heart.M
'93 325is-Sold/'03 WRX-Sold/'04 RX-8-Sold/'92 525iA-TotaledSold/'90 e30s52-Sold/'96 328i-TotaledSold/'95 525iM-Sold
If you go around the front of the engine, you need an extension hose that is closer to 3 feet than the 1 foot extension needed if you go around the back of the engine. Either way works, but shorter is usually better to me even if longer is easier. When I ran the stock hose to the Euro tank, I ran it around the back of the engine and needed just a short extension from approximately that passenger rear corner of the cylinder head to the Euro tank very close by. Running along the front of the engine and down the passenger framerail also puts the hose closer to the exhaust header heat. I would wrap or heat shield it.
I would rather have a longer hose I can see fail, than a shorter one I can't see fail. That was my basic decision breaker for me, and I already have the heat tape .
2012-02-03_07.16.16-1-1.jpeg
2012-02-03_07.17.11-2.jpg
2012-02-03_07.17.44-1-1.jpg
BMPR STKR: Real racers go LEFT and RIGHT.... So tru! Twins at heart.M
'93 325is-Sold/'03 WRX-Sold/'04 RX-8-Sold/'92 525iA-TotaledSold/'90 e30s52-Sold/'96 328i-TotaledSold/'95 525iM-Sold
It's an OEM euro hardline that runs along the side of the head, just like the stock US one does. Being a hardline, I don't really think you have to worry too much about it failing. It leaves you with less than a foot short soft line that you can easily see rather than a long amount of hose that runs by the headers. Your car though...
Just make sure the level stays at the fill line and keep the heat on, the system will bleed itself. Add as needed and keep an eye on the level as it will go down.
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