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Thread: Euro expansion tank easy simple DIY. no $150 kit required :)

  1. #51
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    Euro expansion tank easy simple DIY. no $150 kit required :)

    deleted
    Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:05 PM.
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  2. #52
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    I've already done the secondary o2 delete and I got rid of the CEL by having AA retune my ecu to delete the code. Having said that, I will definitely be doing this mod instead of replacing the cracked expansion tube (honestly I have never seen plastic that brittle on the piece that chipped off the inner tube, I was able to snap the pieces that came out with 2 fingers). I can't turn down having less parts to fail and a better bleeding method. Can anyone tell me which years US 325i I can find one off of?

  3. #53
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  4. #54
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    I bought the hard plastic 5/16" euro line, but I didn't get the 3/4" metal pipe. I have not yet installed.

    What a lot of the naysayers aren't aware of about the euro metal pipe part# 11531318403 (+/-$100.00 shipped) is that you need to remove the intake manifold and that the pipe needs to be modified to fit properly. Many people are bending it with torches to get the correct angles. It also still has a run of rubber hose serving at each of (3) connection points using (6) hose clamps.
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1469562
    Compared to that, is running all rubber hose really that different? You may eliminate some distance of rubber, but the weakest link will always be the weakest link. Is the US car rubber or metal in this area?

    My question for Wangan: Your "parts needed" call out a 3/4" x 3/4" male hose connector. Your step #5 mentions a "T" connector. SOmewhere there is was just a mistake.

    Your 3/4" hose attaches at the timing cover under the intake manifold. It ends at the Euro expansion tank. Do you ever tee off to attach to your heater core? I'm not sure if the heater core is also 3/4".

  5. #55
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    Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:06 PM.
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  6. #56
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    Did you also connect your heater core?

  7. #57
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    The euro hard line has a connection for the heater core. If you don't use that hard line then you will need to put a T in to make it happen.
    Joe

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Estoril View Post
    The euro hard line has a connection for the heater core. If you don't use that hard line then you will need to put a T in to make it happen.
    Yep, I understand that. I'm curious if Wangan omitted his heater.
    I'm aslo considering an elbow to go between the engine and firewall to reduce any rubbing, but I'm not sure if adding two points of connection between rubber/metal is better than leaving it alone. I may have to try it to see.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveAZ View Post
    I bought the hard plastic 5/16" euro line, but I didn't get the 3/4" metal pipe. I have not yet installed.

    What a lot of the naysayers aren't aware of about the euro metal pipe part# 11531318403 (+/-$100.00 shipped) is that you need to remove the intake manifold and that the pipe needs to be modified to fit properly. Many people are bending it with torches to get the correct angles. It also still has a run of rubber hose serving at each of (3) connection points using (6) hose clamps.
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1469562
    Compared to that, is running all rubber hose really that different? You may eliminate some distance of rubber, but the weakest link will always be the weakest link. Is the US car rubber or metal in this area?

    My question for Wangan: Your "parts needed" call out a 3/4" x 3/4" male hose connector. Your step #5 mentions a "T" connector. SOmewhere there is was just a mistake.

    Your 3/4" hose attaches at the timing cover under the intake manifold. It ends at the Euro expansion tank. Do you ever tee off to attach to your heater core? I'm not sure if the heater core is also 3/4".
    In post #9, I explain that you can reverse the stock hose and just add a little to it at the end. The stock hose is long and BMW thinks it is OK. What is another 6 inches? The hard pipe does eliminate a lot of rubber -- like about 3 feet.

  10. #60
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    Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:06 PM.
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  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by wanganstyle View Post
    I had fully functional heater, didn't need to delete it, no reason to as my car did street duty as well as track.

    Just routed the line feeding to USA front radiaor mounted expansion tank to the euro location, that's all I really did.


    It's been a while since I had a s52 :p
    My euro tank setup was reconfigured for s54, s54 loves it- as s54 has a pipe on the side the expansion tank is on.


    The easiest way to understand is to take apart the stock setup, draw a little diagram of what needs to feed where, and connect the dots

    Oh, that's true- you were doing it on an S52, which has a dedicated line for the overflow tank. The S50 has a shared line, so it will be a little different. Hence why you never mentioned putting a T in it anywhere....

  12. #62
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    Hard Line suggestion

    I'm not sure the parts are all available to do the hardline from the factory, at least one of my friends said it was NLA... may or may not be.

    But, its easy to purchase the copper or aluminum 1/4 inch soft and very flexible tubing that is used in plumbing (also for fire supression systems in race cars) and bend your own, use a flare tool on the ends for added security, and make it yourself.

    If you're picky about appearances, paint it, or better yet, run heat shrink for its whole length, and it will have that oem plastic look at feel to it.

    Here's an example, not the greatest image, but you get the idea. Yeah, I know I have to straighten out the reservoir, its on a factory mount plate from a different E36, but I've not moved the Battery post to the fender wall yet, so, this will have to do. Have on the list for winter to change to black silicone hose there, and treat the alum hard line as above....
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by M3 Euro LTW; 01-14-2011 at 01:08 AM.
    Alex Lipowich
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  13. #63
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    Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:06 PM.
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  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by wanganstyle View Post
    word. for S54, its a simple matter of using the quick connect, or modifying the waterhose on header side to accept a standard 3/4" hose+ clamp (what i did for S54)

    the s54 water routing is SO MUCH CLEANER than s52!!!

    It's the same with the euro engine, man.... SO much easier. The S52 seems like they decided to put the overflow tank on the one side and then went "awww, crap... how are we gonna get coolant over there??"

  15. #65
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    Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:06 PM.
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  16. #66
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    OP, Interesting DIY. Quick question though...does your routing of the hose ever allow the hose to be higher up than the reservoir? I only ask because the Euro Tank is only self-bleeding if it's the highest point in the system. If some other point is higher, it could allow an air pocket to develop there and cause bleeding issues.

    Anyway, I did the Euro Coolant tank swap a couple of years ago as well. Used all of the OEM bracketry, piping, etc. and welded all the Euro Bracketry into place. Reason for me doing it? Well, first off the self-bleeding functionality of the Euro Tank was definitely attractive, but I also wanted to get rid of the radiator mounted expansion tank for a couple of other reasons...to make room for a bigger radiator and SPAL puller fan (clutch fan deleted), and for future clearance for a future planned engine swap.
    However, with mine it was important that I maintain ALL emissions related equipment. This is mainly due to the fact that in the future I am planning on having the planned engine swap inspected and certified by a SMOG referee so it will be completely legal. This requires all emissions equipment to be present and functional. So, I chose to relocate the secondary air pump to behind the right front bumper. To do so, I had to use the exhaust diverter valve from an E39 to facilitate the hose routing. Here's a couple of pics of the relocated pump...before I welded the brackets together, rounded the edges, and painted them all black...(yes, I know the tire is backwards in the pic...was only on there temporarilty.)...



    Works perfectly, with no CEL and tucks behind my bumper perfectly...
    Last edited by Mpowered02; 01-17-2011 at 03:52 AM.
    Alvin Caragay
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  17. #67
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mpowered02 View Post
    I chose to relocate the secondary air pump to behind the right front bumper.
    Very tidy installation!

    Neil

  18. #68
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    Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:06 PM.
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  19. #69
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    Ok, I did mine this past weekend. My take on this was a little different and a lot easier than I expected. For M50/S50, M52/S52:

    Parts list:
    17111712641 BMW expansion tank (re-use existing cap)
    61312250421 low coolant sensor/switch
    61311361249 coolant sensor/switch o-ring
    41112491298 front metal bracket for expansion tank/diagnosis plug [Euro part, expect delay]
    17111719190 Plastic clip to attach bracket to expansion tank
    41122256492 Rear metal bracket [Euro part, expect delay]
    5 ft of 3/4” heater hose
    6 ft of 5/16” fuel hose
    (1) 3/4" male/male connector w/ (2) hose clamps
    (1)3/4” elbow w/ (2) hose clamps
    6’ thin wire to relocate coolant switch/sensor

    To relocate battery terminal:
    12421432906 Euro Battery terminal bracket (mounts to inside fender) [Euro part, expect delay]
    Napa 711891 (1 gauge 19” battery cable with terminal ends. You may be able to use a significantly shorter one, I didn't do this to find out.)
    18” 10 gauge wire, (2) terminal ends
    Directions for terminal relocation are here:
    http://www.racepad.com/proj/racepad_...or_project.htm
    (I got lazy with the terminal. I unbolted it and shoved it downward below the expansion tank. I never used it and I don't intend to.)

    Euro parts you don’t want: (Don't let people talk you into these mistakes.)
    There is a Euro hard plastic 5/16” cooling tube is molded to meet the top of the passenger side of the radiator. It needs to reach the driver’s side. Using a straight run of 5/16” fuel line is much better than adding multiple connection points.
    You cannot use the Euro lower metal hose on a US engine without investing a lot of time and effort modifying the angles of the pipes with a torch. Many people have destroyed them trying. The Euro engines have different cooling line locations. US cars already use rubber hoses- the metal line is needless overkill.

    This red notes in this diagram explain the hidden connection point better. I thought the entire hose was being replaced based on Wangan's directions.

    (Pic showing elbow from cutpoint in existing hose to new 3/4" hose.)

    I removed my airbox, mass airflow sensor and all the intake hoses up to the throttle body in order to access the existing hose under the intake manifold. I routed the 3/4" hose from the location of the Euro expansion tank behind the engine to the point of connection.
    I kept and reused the existing end of the hose which had been connected to the bottom of the US expansion tank because the end which mounts to the bottle is flared and the 3/4" hose will not fit the expansion tank.
    The rest of the directions are already discussed in this thread.

    The green line in the diagram shows the two lines to connect if you'd like to eliminate the coolant lines which are routed to add heat to the throttle body and airbox. It has nothing to do with this task and I'm not telling you to do it because I don't want to hear what people think of that idea.
    Last edited by DaveAZ; 01-25-2011 at 12:36 AM.

  20. #70
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    David, what did you use for the 3/4" elbow and straight male-male connectors. I think I see from your pic above that the elbow is black plastic, which I like for its factory look.

    Neil

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilM View Post
    David, what did you use for the 3/4" elbow and straight male-male connectors. I think I see from your pic above that the elbow is black plastic, which I like for its factory look.

    Neil
    They are universal heater hose connectors. Most auto parts stores carry them. I bought them at O'Reilly (Checker, Schuck's, Kragen, Murray's.)

  22. #72
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveAZ View Post
    They are universal heater hose connectors. Most auto parts stores carry them. I bought them at O'Reilly (Checker, Schuck's, Kragen, Murray's.)
    Thanks, available at: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...187&ppt=C0108:



    I've had the conversion parts sitting around for well over a year waiting for some other reason to take off the intake manifold so I could do this at the same time. Apparently I've procrastinated long enough that this thread has obsoleted a couple of the expensive parts (Euro metal and plastic pipes) that I'd bought thinking they would be needed. On the plus side the intake manifold doesn't need to come off now.

    I see there are two hose connections under the new reservoir pressure cap. One hose snakes around to the radiator nipple on the driver side. Where does the other one go?

    Neil

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilM View Post
    I see there are two hose connections under the new reservoir pressure cap. One hose snakes around to the radiator nipple on the driver side. Where does the other one go?
    The other one usually has a hose that just drains into the fender for over-pressure bleed-off...
    Alvin Caragay
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  24. #74
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mpowered02 View Post
    The other one usually has a hose that just drains into the fender for over-pressure bleed-off...
    Ah, so it's just a simple overflow. However dumping coolant is a no-no for those of us who track our cars, so I guess I'll be looking for a suitable small catch tank.

    Neil

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    Good Write up!

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