Spec E36 Build - 328i

[Sam Son]

very cool project seems to be coming along nicely

[M3Rob95]

I have read the spec e36 rules but how do you know all the other parts you can use that are not mentioned?

Like the solid mounts, exp tanks, etc...

[BMW4LIFE]

I have read the spec e36 rules but how do you know all the other parts you can use that are not mentioned?

Like the solid mounts, exp tanks, etc...

From what I understand, if it is not mentioned you can't use it. Solid mounts are allowed though. Aftermarket or remote expansion tanks may not be allowed but I can't imagine someone protesting me on that.

The dashboard was removed today. What a fun job. More busted knuckles. Thanks to Chris for the help.

[m3weaver]

Jeff,

If you leave that dash loose, we may try to fit the dash bar in OVER the heater core

[noodlexyz]

Jeff,

If you leave that dash loose, we may try to fit the dash bar in OVER the heater core

That would be interesting to see, but why not just remove the heater core?

-Ryan

[m3weaver]

Just leaving the dash loose until the cage is installed, then reinstall, rather than working around it.

Want to keep the heater installed for defrost and clearing windows while running in the rain.

[Fukes 2]

Looking good Jeff. Damn there's alot of stuff under these dashboards.

[HabberstadChris]

I'm doing my best to convince Jeff to remove the heater now, while it's staring him in the face. I have solutions for each and every one of his concerns regarding the heater-delete. He has a bad case of streetcaritis. Reaching minimum weight will be but a dream if his condition persists.

[M3Rob95]

Haha at street-car-itis. So solid bushings it is. Motormounts and all?

[HabberstadChris]

Haha at street-car-itis. So solid bushings it is. Motormounts and all?

I recommend Al engine/tranny/diff and sub frame mounts. Bushing material has yet to be discussed.

[JClark]

This car will be done and raced before Chris's ever sees the track again.

[B.Watts]

Haha at street-car-itis. So solid bushings it is. Motormounts and all?

Suspension bushing material is free, but sphericals are not allowed. So, in some cases, you're looking at a hard rubber rather than a solid bushing since some bushings are multi-axis.

If allowed, solid motor, transmission, and diff mounts are a no brainer in my opinion. More reliable as long as you take proper care to reinforce the subframe, etc. In some areas, using delrin for a bit of shock absorption might be better than straight aluminum.

[HabberstadChris]

This car will be done and raced before Chris's ever sees the track again.

Oh heeellll no. My car is parked, patienly, ready for an event. I even managed to ditch the OE eprom in favor of something a bit more "racey". I will be at the first club race within a single-digit tow. Or, instructing at a DE of similar proximity.

[Fair]

If allowed, solid motor, transmission, and diff mounts are a no brainer in my opinion. More reliable as long as you take proper care to reinforce the subframe, etc. In some areas, using delrin for a bit of shock absorption might be better than straight aluminum.

Yep, this is why we use Nylon on our stiffest BMW motor mounts. It has a tiny bit of NVH absorption, but is essentially solid. The difference in shift feel and throttle response on a BMW equipped with our nylon comp motor mounts and our comp trans mounts vs. "the hardest rubber mounts available" is astounding.

[HabberstadChris]

Personally, I do not like to use mounts that incorporate bonding agents (or glue). I have witnessed failures of these bonding agents (and even a failure of the mount material itself) on more than one occasion - though not of the examples shown above. Typically it is the right engine mount that fails, due to the heat emitted from the exhaust manifold. Aluminum mounts are simply solid metal, eliminating any potential for failure.

[Fair]

Personally, I do not like to use mounts that incorporate bonding agents (or glue). I have witnessed failures of these bonding agents (and even a failure of the mount material itself) on more than one occasion - though not of the examples shown above. Typically it is the right engine mount that fails, due to the heat emitted from the exhaust manifold. Aluminum mounts are simply solid metal, eliminating any potential for failure.

Agreed. I have seen many a bonded polyurethane or rubber drive line mounts fail catastrophically (just like the OEM rubber mounts do), too. Then the engine just flops around like a dead fish, pulling on all of the hoses and potentially causing all sorts of damage (to coolant or power steering hoses, radiator necks, etc).

+

That's why we make our competition motor and trans mounts as a bolt-thru mount design. The only way for it to come apart is to remove it from the car, or if the big M10 stud breaks (which would be hard to do!). This method gives you some upgrade/downgrade choices down the road, if you want a harder Nylon or softer Poly bushing insert. We usually have 2-3 durometer bushing choices for each mount we make.

...and now back to your regularly scheduled Spec E36 build thread.

[BMW4LIFE]

Looking good Jeff. Damn there's alot of stuff under these dashboards.

Thanks Joe. Yes there is and it is overwhelming for this first time builder.

I'm doing my best to convince Jeff to remove the heater now, while it's staring him in the face. I have solutions for each and every one of his concerns regarding the heater-delete. He has a bad case of streetcaritis. Reaching minimum weight will be but a dream if his condition persists.

Streetcaritis. I do have it real bad but with every piece that is removed and often times destroyed my affliction diminishes. So much so I am even actually considering removing my heater core.

This car will be done and raced before Chris's ever sees the track again.

Shot's fired!

[skiboard06]

Streetcaritis. I do have it real bad but with every piece that is removed and often times destroyed my affliction diminishes. So much so I am even actually considering removing my heater core.

Jeff, take the heater core out, you'll appreciate it later. The dash bar if well designed will block all of the stock defrost ducting from getting to the windscreen.

Also se36 weight is lighhhht and it looks like it takes some effort to get there.

[noodlexyz]

Jeff, take the heater core out, you'll appreciate it later. The dash bar if well designed will block all of the stock defrost ducting from getting to the windscreen.

Also se36 weight is lighhhht and it looks like it takes some effort to get there.

Hahaha, just take it out already!

-Ryan

[BMW4LIFE]

Jeff, take the heater core out, you'll appreciate it later. The dash bar if well designed will block all of the stock defrost ducting from getting to the windscreen.

Also se36 weight is lighhhht and it looks like it takes some effort to get there.

All this pressure to remove the heater core has finally gotten to me. Chris is coming over on Sunday and we will officially be removing the heater core forever ridding me of street - car - itis!

You are correct, it does take some effort to get to minimum weight. There has been quite a discussion about that on the Spec E36 Yahoo Group recently and being that I have a sedan I need to remove everything I can within the rules to achieve 2830. Not to mention I am pleasantly "stocky" at 200lbs.

Hahaha, just take it out already!

-Ryan

Ryan, please see above...

[lawson4323]

awesome build! good luck!

[BMW4LIFE]

Update: Heater core is officially out of the car. It was pretty straight forward for the most part with some wrestling towards the end to remove it once it was unbolted. Most likely removed ~50lbs worth of parts today. So it was quite a successful day.

Thanks once again to Chris & Tucker, I could not have done it without them.

[tuckersmg]

Did you guys get anything done this weekend?

[BMW4LIFE]

This past weekend was productive. The injectors were rebuilt using a kit bought from Mr. Injector. The instructions were very thorough and the process was only mildly painful. Plus I was told that rebuilding the injectors is good for at least 10+ HP.

As for the heater core removal project, the intake manifold was removed and the Bimmerworld plate was installed were the coolant flowed into the heater core.

I also finished removing all of the sound deadening residue from the rear half of the car. A mere 4 hour project. I am not sure what to do yet with the seam sealer. Some say to grind it off and other say to leave it. When I paint the interior it will surely be an eye sore.

Injectors
Before:

After:


Intake Manifold Removed:

Did you guys get anything done this weekend?

See above.

A better question is, did you get "anything done" this weekend?

An even better question for all track junkies is would you rather play around with race cars or pork? I smell a poll.

[tuckersmg]

does that answer your question