Fan clutch? Consider ditching the mechanical fan and going to a SPAL electric fan.
Brian
SE36 #206
Considering Jeff's mechanical abilities (which aren't terrible, but keeping things as simple as possible would be best) I advise keeping the OE mechanical fan set-up. I suspect he will be driving the SE36 to events at first (just as I did) and the OE mechanical fan works beautifully in traffic - even with the OE electric fan deleted. When Jeff gets a truck/trailer set-up I will recommend removal of the mechanical fan for the extra 3-5hp on the top-end. There really is no need for a fan of any kind if the car is used as intended - on the race track.
3-5 hp? I wasn't even thinking about that. I wasthinking weight and exploding fan clutches!
Brian
SE36 #206
Update: The cooling system upgrade is complete and the A/C system has been removed. Ran into a few minor issues along the way but nothing too crazy. The samco hoses from BW were kinda a bitch to get on and the thermostat was frozen to the block.
Some pics:
Random fan blade jammed into the A/C Comp that was wearing on the drive belt:
My old man's 57 T-Bird was great for placing removed parts:
Last edited by BMW4LIFE; 10-19-2009 at 10:22 PM.
Last edited by BMW4LIFE; 10-19-2009 at 10:18 PM.
As Jeff mentioned, the rad fitment was pretty good except that the expansion tank now sits pretty close to the engine. I don't see much of a problem, though. Once the engine get solid mounted it doesn't matter. I have to show you the trick to those retaining clips. They literally take 1 second to pop open. If you have to fight with them, "'Yer doin' it wrong."
After taking a nice long drive in the car and then inspecting the expansion tank it appears to be rubbing quite a bit, enough to wear grooves in it already. And the rad seems to taper out from top to bottom, not sit flush.
Anyone else experience this problem with IE rad or any other aftermarket rad?
Something needs to be done to fix this issue.
When my poly mount let go, the timing case bolts started to work their way into the coolant tank (during a race of course). Going solid will help if thats an option for you. Wouldn't have expected it on the Ireland. Is the core thicker than stock?
Brian
SE36 #206
Jeff is going solid at some point in the future, which will eliminate the close-proximity issue. For now, though, it sounds like the expansion tank is making too much contact for comfort. The rad is an Ireland Engineering unit, which has a 45mm thick core vs 33mm for factory radiator (according to their website). This seems to be causing the interference.
I'd like to go to a remote aluminum reservoir at some point. That will also make bleeding easier. I haven't yet gotten around to re-reading the rules for legality though. What setup are you using Chris?
Brian
SE36 #206
Gotcha.
Brian
SE36 #206
Ditch that factory expansion tank!
Aftermarket. The euro tank makes it a pain to get the ECU out if you're in a rush (pit lane).
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