After an 8+ year hiatus from wheel to wheel competition I have decided to rejoin the ranks. Participating in the Club Race School at O'fest 2008 at the Glen helped re-plant that seed. Having read many comments about how much fun people were having in BMW Club Racing and the opportunity for growth in the Spec E36 class sealed the deal for me.
Before jumping in feet first I did some research, read through the rule book, and talked at length with Chris @ BRM Motorsports about his Spec e36 build. I plan on building the car over time as the funds become available and try to do as much work as possible myself even though I am admittedly a poor mechanic. I hope to have it ready for next season but that may be a long shot. In the meantime I will continue to run my e36 M3 track car in HPDE’s.
After a month of scouring every imaginable classified ad, I found an alpine white 1997 328i close to home with 139K. The owner was a young guy who had lost his license or could not afford to repair the car and let the car sit underneath a tree for over a year. It was in rough shape and was un drivable when I went to see it but there was alas NO RUST and all the VIN#’s were present on the every single body panel. The motor did start but ran horribly and was making a loud whirring sound. The front door panels were removed and the passenger door would not open from the inside or outside. There were ants crawling all over the exterior, bird droppings, tree sap, berries etc...a real sad sight. I pulled 9 codes from the check engine light. I gambled that most of the codes were old and not cleared. A quick reference to the peake booklet pointed to emissions related issues as well as a misfire in 4 of the 6 cylinders. He informed me he had recently replaced the clutch but had no receipt. I was skeptical but I did spot the sach’s clutch alignment tool in the trunk. Asking Price, a ludicrous $6K!!! I offered him/low balled him $800 figuring the motor may be shot. We settled somewhere north of that as I really wanted a white sedan and I knew I would be replacing a lot of parts anyway. I ran a car fax for piece of mind and discovered that it had been a California driven car from new until 123K miles. That explains why it had no rust.
Several days later I went to pick it up. After the PO filled the tires with air and jump started the car I checked the fluids and took my chances and drove it home. The clutch and tranny were great, most of the electronics work, and the car drives pretty nice for sitting so long. I averaged 27 mpg in mostly city driving. I plan on registering and driving the car on the street and sorting out any issues as they arise as well as performing routine maintenance. My first order of business will be to replace all the rotors and pads and bleed the system.
Enough blabbering incoherently and onto the pics:
Classic Trunk Full O' Parts:
Last edited by BMW4LIFE; 08-20-2009 at 10:37 PM.
that looks like fun
The car was detailed today and it came out great. The chassis is incredibly clean and rust free. Prepping the car for detailing took a solid hour and I went through a tank of gas in the power washer. There was so much dirt and sap in the all the jams and the paint needed a serious claying after being washed. After it was done being prepped it was compounded, polished, and waxed. The interior was detailed as well and the door panels, seats, and carpets look good and will be for sale at some point in the near future.
The car came out so good I am debating turning it loose on the open market and making a quick profit.
So who needs there car detailed by the best?
Here are the pics:
Extremely clean wheel wells:
Last edited by BMW4LIFE; 08-20-2009 at 10:54 PM.
Profit.
Get another, then race. You've still got 3 weeks.
Garage sale coming soon, watch this space.
Thanks Tucker. That would be 2 steak dinners I would owe you. Utah 2!
I tend to break more than I fix as well whether it is wrenching or on track. Maybe it is a disease.
Tempted to sell. Is this car too clean to race? Edit: Stupid question knowing that people drive cars off of the showroom floor to their cage builder.
3 weeks is impossible. It took me forever to find this car. I cannot tolerate rust. Anyone have a cheap e36 that resides in Cali that can be driven to NY? Road trip.
Last edited by BMW4LIFE; 08-20-2009 at 11:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Make sure you fit into an IT class so you can run the TeamDI Pro IT Series in 2010!
Keep it, it's straight and rust free. You'll regret it if you can't find another one in time.
Over the weekend I replaced the rotors and pads at all 4 corners or at least attempted to. After a closer inspection it was quite clear that the PO neglected the brakes. The drivers side front rotor was so thin that the pressure from the brake pads bent the rotor inward. When I removed the pads from the caliper they were fused together and the piston fell out. I bought 2 front calipers from another member and I am waiting on them to arrive. Quite Ghetto Fab but I used golf tee's to plug the brake lines and I am hoping that I did not trap too much air.
Some pics:
According to the Bentley manual I need to have the brakes bled at the dealer because I have ASC on my car??? True or False?
I want to install stainless steel lines in the front but I may have stripped the nut on the hard line. How F'ed am I if that is the case?
You only need the dealer if there is air in the ABS, if all you did is change the calipers then a simple bled is all you need. This would be a good time to upgrade to stainless brake lines if the rules allow it.
Jeff,
Those Brakes are Scary, good thing you didnt try any fast down hill driving on the way home.
the way you cleaned that thing up was amazing, you may get some money off your cage, if your able to do that to mine.
David
Very cool, I agree, white E36 sedan = . I'm also looking to get ino (1st time for me) W2W and Spec E36 is one of the series I was interested in ... however my "current" plan is to build my car out for GTS3. Good luck w/ the build and I amy pick your brain when my time comes. BTW, did you sell the Avus car yet?
Thanks for the info. I really wanted to avoid the dealer.
Funny you should mention SS lines. I have them and intended on installing them until I stripped the nut on the hard line even after soaking it in penetrating oil. I am at a loss on what to do at this point. One thing is for sure, I am a poor mechanic.
Fast down hill driving is what the E Brake is for, right?
Thanks Dave! I have no doubt that your race car would clean up just as nice as my car.
Hey Joe. No reason to put your mint avus M3 into W2W. Buy a cheap e36 that is not in mint condition and has a less than perfect interior and join the Spec e36 class.
Thankfully my avus M3 sold about a month ago. That sale helped make this project possible. Having 3 BMW track cars would have been insanity.
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On to more brain farts:
Well... I am waiting for parts to arrive and that of course has given me time to think about more money I need to spend and parts that I need to order.
The cooling related parts need to be completely ripped out and replaced. I am torn between 3 radiators. The BW Alum., Ireland Eng, and the Mishimoto.
I think I have decided on the Ireland Eng. unit because it offers additional cooling capacity and it fits like the stock unit with no mods.
My rational for not choosing the other 2 - The craftsmanship of the mishimoto worries me and the BW is identical to the OE rad in capacity although it is aluminum.
I know the PWR and Fluidyne are very popular with club racers but they are out of my price range.
All other related cooling parts including a stewart pump will be bought from BW.
Last edited by BMW4LIFE; 08-26-2009 at 11:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Damn, you weren't kidding when you said the brakes were SHOT! I've never seen rotors worn that much. The dude must have driven 5000 miles using the backing plates to stop. Long Island Mobile Car Wash did one hell of a job on the detail. Now, bring that car to me for a look-see.
Jeff, you're overreacting, those brakes have plenty of life left in them.
This should be your replacement interval:
Go with the mishimoto rad. You can get it for $185 shipped on ebay. I bought some EBC rotors for dirt cheap from usautoports.com fronts are $28, rear were $23, shipping was $5. They work great.
Cold Tires + Wall = Suck
Great find Jeff. Have fun building her up. Feel free to contact with any questions.
Holy original front rotors.
Jesse....dayum...thats the ultimate in lightweight rotor design.
i did that to the hard line in between the rear lines.
took the whole thing off the car, but it in a very big mounted vice, cranked it reaaalllllllyyyy tight, then put a pipe on the little turning rod and cranked it even tighter! lil penetrating oil grab the wrench whapow! right off.
if its a front line, or the first rear line, i don't know what you would do but if theres a way to take it off the car and do what i just said, do it!
best of luck on the build I want an SE36 they look like a blast!
-Mike-
BUY MY FORGELINE WHEELS!
Update: The oil has finally been changed, a new optima battery installed as well as stainless steel brake lines, Redline MTL in the gearbox, and the drivers side door now open's and closes from the inside and out. The car has all new rotors and pads at all 4 corners and even survived a 300+ mile road trip on the stock cooling system and some awful sounding noises coming from the engine compartment all the while returning 25 - 30mpg.
Issues: The car is infested with ants and spiders but luckily no rodents (I think). The check engine light comes on everytime I drive the car and there are some aformentioned horrific noises coming from either the A/C compressor, secondary pump, the fan clutch, or the alternator or all of the above. It is tough to pinpoint where it is coming from so I will continue to drive it until something breaks.
I am getting the following codes from the CE light:
4F - After cat oxygen sensor heater cyl # 1-3
FC - EVAP incorrect purge flow
FE - EVAP Large leak detected
F6 - Sec Air Flow system too low cyl #4-6
If I am reading 4F correctly I need either a new o2 sensor or a catalytic converter.
F6 may mean I need a new secondary pump.
FC & FE only occured a couple times and I am having no driveability issues so I am not going to worry about these codes.
What are other OBDII racer's doing to avoid a CE light when they remove the Catalytic Converter and the Secondary Air Pump? Is there software I need to buy?
i feel like a troll for this build, but i'm local and i like the idea of SE36, just a few pennies shy of being able to get in on the fun.
for the cat delete, there's a writeup on here, but basically either AA o2 sims for $120
or spark plug antifoulers for about $15. you basically screw one antifouler into the other, then the o2 sensor into that, and screw that whole assembly into your midpipe for the post cat sensors)
what that does is pull the sensors out of the direct flow of the exhaust so the ecu "thinks" its seeingthe restriction from the cats but really isnt.
-Mike-
BUY MY FORGELINE WHEELS!
Welcome to the class! If you haven't already, you should join the spece36 yahoo mailing list.
Brian
SE36 #206
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