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Thread: Buying tips/guides

  1. #1
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    Buying tips/guides

    Hi everyone

    I'm looking to get a 2001-2003 e39 540i. Do you guys have tips on things I should look out for? So I've been through a bit of digging but I still have some questions...
    Correct me if I'm wrong but:
    -the 540i's tend to have a radiator problem (even 01-03) and that it may be better to get me a higher mileage car than a lower mileage car because the higher mileage car may have had the problem already fixed? (i.e 44k 02 540i vs 97k 02 540i?)
    -blown shocks around 40-70k
    -valve gasket around 50-70k
    -thermostat around 40-70k?

    I'm going to look at a 02 540i over the weekend with 44k miles...the owner says they've got all the service records, but this doesn't prevent the dreaded radiator problem does it? (because it eventually will fail?)

    Quote Originally Posted by Lscman View Post

    Experiences vary, but one thing is for sure...540i doorhandles, cupholders, valve cover gaskets, door seals, catalytic converters, oil separators (crankcase ventilation), clutches, ABS units, pixels, water pumps, wheel bearings, thrust arm bushings, expansion tank, radiators, oil pump mounting bolts will continue to fail at an alarming rate. These failures are not limited to my car (lol).
    Quote Originally Posted by Wiseguy ON View Post
    A few cooling issues that are very crucial on the V8s and somewhat crucial on the M52TUs and M54s.

    These are things that can cost you a fortune if you don't catch them quickly.

    1) Water Pumps. REPLACE BY 80,000 MILES! On a V8, we've now seen TWO cars come into our shop where the water pump bearings failed almost suddenly.. this caused shaft play to the point where the impeller of the water pump started to machine the engine's timing cover. I don't think that I need to mention what a huge expense/job it is to change a timing cover on a V8.

    2) Thermostats. If your car has an electronically controlled thermostat, it too must be changed by 70-80k miles. We've seen a couple of cars (Thankfully none of our customers!) where the electronic connector has started to leak coolant into the plug. The coolant then runs up the harness and into the DME. If you have an EWS3 car, this means you now need the following:

    New DME from the dealer (EWS3 DMEs cannot be reused from a parts car)
    New engine wiring harness ($$ and oodles of labor)
    New Thermostat.

    People, this is another potential tremendous expense, please be wary of this!
    http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?...d=27&Itemid=55


    I guess the big question is, is it better to get a lower mileage 01-03 540(44k, considering I may have to replace a bunch of stuff) or a higher mileage 540 (70k+, where stuff may have been already replaced)?

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by brucelee; 11-13-2009 at 07:58 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Have you even looked at the Please read before posting!!! E39 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)/ Links/ Autoparts thread at the top of the main page?
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    Have you even looked at the Please read before posting!!! E39 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)/ Links/ Autoparts thread at the top of the main page?

    Yea I have...but I'm still wondering if its better to get the lower mileage or the higher mileage. I would like to know which opportunity cost you guys think the least.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    High vs low miles doesnt matter. What matters is that either car has full service records and always get a PPI before you pull the trigger.

    Good Luck

  5. #5
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    It looks like you may have already read these.
    E39 Buyer's Guide

    Common problems and fixes

    Quote Originally Posted by larinah View Post
    High vs low miles doesnt matter. What matters is that either car has full service records and always get a PPI before you pull the trigger.

    Good Luck
    To some extent this is true, however, if it is an auto tranny car, the OP might want to get a car with lower mileage.
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 11-13-2009 at 08:11 PM.

  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone
    Quote Originally Posted by jamesdc4 View Post
    It looks like you may have already read these.
    E39 Buyer's Guide

    Common problems and fixes


    To some extent this is true, however, if it is an auto tranny car, the OP might want to get a car with lower mileage.
    I did read the common problems and fixes, but I seem to have no found the e39 buyers guide you just posted. thanks.

    And if it is an auto tranny car, isn't it true that even if i do get a car with lower mileage, I may have to repair the AT down the road? Would it recommended to pick a higher mileage car that has had a recent AT repair over the lower mileage car? (some AT are hit/miss though right?)

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by brucelee View Post
    I did read the common problems and fixes, but I seem to have no found the e39 buyers guide you just posted. thanks.
    The link I posted is to a .pdf file at Bimmerboard and for some reason is very slow to load. The download stops at around 10 megs for me and then after a pause, loads the rest of the way. Until I can find a work around, you'll just have to click on the link and be patient.

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