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Thread: The Heater Core Removal!

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Virginia Beach, VA
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    99 M3, 01 F350
    you have another option, if you car is OBDII and you dont have the OBDI coolant adapter piece.

    AKG makes a M50 coolant block off plate as well, but it comes with a PLUG to plug the "blue X" hose.

    no further modifications are necessary when removing the heater core
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  2. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Sacramento, CA
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    95 m3
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
    As long as that hose from the back of the head connects into the T fitting, it'll return the water to the radiator. Where there has been discussion on problems is when you connect the hose from the back of the head to the hose running into the back of the T-stat. That will cause water to recirculate into the head without running back to the radiator.

    The alternate method shown above will work fine, but leaves a couple of unnecesary hoses in play. Simpler is better. Block off the port at the back of the head and connect the T-stat hose to the radiator return using the existing inline coonector.
    Sorry for the uber bump.

    Is there a picture or a diagram out there with the above hoses connected? I cannot image such connection possible as the two hoses are of a different diameter.

    Please correct me if I'm wrong.


    Mods: obd1 s52, SS replica headers, SS race mid-section, SS exhaust, euro intake, 3.5" hfm, turner tune, 24lb injectors, uuc flywheel, m5 clutch.

  3. #28
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    95 m3
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
    Simpler is better. Block off the port at the back of the head and connect the T-stat hose to the radiator return using the existing inline coonector.
    Pardon my question that has been answered a bunch in the thread, but is there a picture floating around, a diagram perhaps, that gives a visual of the above description. I'm currently in the middle of this and would like to see exactly how this hose connects to the t-stat.

    Thanks


    Mods: obd1 s52, SS replica headers, SS race mid-section, SS exhaust, euro intake, 3.5" hfm, turner tune, 24lb injectors, uuc flywheel, m5 clutch.

  4. #29
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    99 M3, 01 F350
    Quote Originally Posted by 95s52 View Post
    Sorry for the uber bump.

    Is there a picture or a diagram out there with the above hoses connected? I cannot image such connection possible as the two hoses are of a different diameter.

    Please correct me if I'm wrong.
    same diameter... obd1 coolant hoses use an inline male to male fitting from factory... use that... easy
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Marshall, VA
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    19
    My Cars
    1998 323is
    Resurrecting this thread because I have a later model 98 323is and the configuration of the hoses is slightly different. I believe this diagram is what I have or close to it.

    In mine, there is a metal pipe (#5 red in the pic below). I have removed the hose #9 blue and used the M50 block off plate at the head. And I've removed the #8 green hose from the heater core at the firewall. But the other end if this hose connected to the steel pipe. Can I just use a short piece of this hose to block that off? I'm assuming I can then keep the small hose #13 orange that runs up to the throttle body.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Richmond, VA
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    E82 128i, E36 M3
    Remove the steel pipe and install this where the pipe used to be
    http://store.bimmerworld.com/obd-i-c...pipe-p959.aspx

    Then get a piece of 1" heater hose from your local auto parts store and connect it to hose #7 using one of these adapters
    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=2938

    Where hose #14 connects to the head is a great spot to install a water temp sending unit (or just a plug if you don't want that). I used this Bimmerworld adapter for my sending unit.
    http://store.bimmerworld.com/extende...ter-p1402.aspx

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Marshall, VA
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    1998 323is
    Quote Originally Posted by hoki06 View Post
    Remove the steel pipe and install this where the pipe used to be
    http://store.bimmerworld.com/obd-i-c...pipe-p959.aspx

    Then get a piece of 1" heater hose from your local auto parts store and connect it to hose #7 using one of these adapters
    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=2938

    Where hose #14 connects to the head is a great spot to install a water temp sending unit (or just a plug if you don't want that). I used this Bimmerworld adapter for my sending unit.
    http://store.bimmerworld.com/extende...ter-p1402.aspx
    Thanks. How should I go about removing the steel pipe? It's not obvious whether it's threaded in there or what. I see that the adapter comes with epoxy so it looks like it is just jammed in the hole with epoxy. But how is the OEM pipe attached?


    Also, CAN I do as I said and just plug the one end of the OEM pipe.
    Last edited by jimgood; 01-27-2015 at 12:35 PM. Reason: punctuation

  8. #33
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    Apr 2011
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    E82 128i, E36 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by jimgood View Post
    Thanks. How should I go about removing the steel pipe? It's not obvious whether it's threaded in there or what. I see that the adapter comes with epoxy so it looks like it is just jammed in the hole with epoxy. But how is the OEM pipe attached?


    Also, CAN I do as I said and just plug the one end of the OEM pipe.
    The steel pipe is held in place by a metal tab with a bolt. Once you remove the bolt, you have to wiggle and pull back towards the firewall to remove it. Mine was a pain to remove and took a good bit of wiggling and pulling. Watch your knuckles for when it does finally pop loose. There is an o-ring on the one end you'll see after removing.

    Yes, you can modify the steel pipe by plugging the ends you do not need. Some people have caps welded in place, others pinch the dead ends and weld them shut. I didn't like that idea because it creates dead legs where coolant and air pockets could potentially sit. IMO it's much cleaner and easier to use the Bimmerworld adapter like I described.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Marshall, VA
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    19
    My Cars
    1998 323is
    I appreciate the info. The only reason I'm hesitating to use the adapter is because I have a mechanic doing the R & R on the intake (I'm a wuss). He's scheduled to put it all back together tomorrow and I can't get the adapter in time. I've got a cage install scheduled and I still have a lot of other stuff to do before then. But, at least I know what my options are now. Thanks a million!
    Last edited by jimgood; 01-28-2015 at 05:59 AM.

  10. #35
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    Apr 2011
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    Richmond, VA
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    E82 128i, E36 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by jimgood View Post
    I appreciate the info. The only reason I'm hesitating to use the adapter is because I have a mechanic doing the R & R on the intake (I'm a wuss). He's scheduled to put it all back together tomorrow and I can't get the adapter in time. I've got a cage install scheduled and I still have a lot of other stuff to do before then. But, at least I know what my options are now. Thanks a million!
    I know your pain, I went through the exact same thing right before Christmas. I had a shop do the intake since I didn't have the time and even with the little buffer time built into my schedule it was tight. If you do order the adapters, keep in mind that Bimmerworld is essentially next day shipping with UPS ground here in VA and Pegasus was very helpful making sure I got the adapter in 2 days.

    Who is doing your work? What group/class are you building for?

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Marshall, VA
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    19
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    1998 323is
    Quote Originally Posted by hoki06 View Post
    I know your pain, I went through the exact same thing right before Christmas. I had a shop do the intake since I didn't have the time and even with the little buffer time built into my schedule it was tight. If you do order the adapters, keep in mind that Bimmerworld is essentially next day shipping with UPS ground here in VA and Pegasus was very helpful making sure I got the adapter in 2 days.

    Who is doing your work? What group/class are you building for?
    The engine work is being done by a local mobile mechanic named Ryan Bascom. The cage install is scheduled with Piper Motorsports.

    As for group/class, initially this is a track day build then maybe GTS1 (?) with NASA. Down the road it will probably be STU as I want the flexibility to do a non-BMW transplant.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Denver, CO.
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    2
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    e46 M3
    This is probably a long shot but has anyone done this on an S62. There are two hoses coming off the back which I believe need to be re-circulated then the third port from the water pump I believe goes back to the coolant expansion tank.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    New York
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    02 M3, 98 Civic
    I am still trying to wrap my head around this... So hopefully I am right in thinking:
    Block off plate at hose #5 at back of head
    Remove hose #5
    Plug at hose #14 at head
    Remove #11
    Remove Hose #14 and #15
    Make hose or cut and plug hose #6 from back of thermostat housing to lower expansion tank.




  14. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Michigan
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    8
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    1995 BMW M3 Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by Spacemonkey391 View Post
    I am still trying to wrap my head around this... So hopefully I am right in thinking:
    Block off plate at hose #5 at back of head - Correct
    Remove hose #5 - Correct
    Plug at hose #14 at head - Correct
    Remove #11 - If you remove, plug the hole in the air box. I left mine in.
    Remove Hose #14 and #15 - Correct
    Plug Hose 15 at throttle body

    Cut hose #6 just forwards of double T section (leave the section that connects to the thermostat housing connected), connect to Hose #7 using male to male connector from hose #6/7 connection
    I've added comments and additional steps. You pretty much had it.
    Last edited by Goallie11; 07-10-2018 at 09:49 AM.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    New York
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    02 M3, 98 Civic
    Thank you! Do you know the size of the male to male connector for hose 6 to 7 connection? I would like to buy the connector and have all the stuff so I can just knock it out without having to run out to the store in the middle of the job.

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Ottawa, ON, Canada
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    e90 M3,X5,e46 racer
    Quote Originally Posted by Spacemonkey391 View Post
    Thank you! Do you know the size of the male to male connector for hose 6 to 7 connection? I would like to buy the connector and have all the stuff so I can just knock it out without having to run out to the store in the middle of the job.
    3/4" or 5/8" ... buy both

    Also, no need to plug the nipples on the TB ... it's just a loop, you can leave them open if you don't care.
    Check out the 8legs Racing page: https://www.facebook.com/8legsRacing/


  17. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Michigan
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    My Cars
    1995 BMW M3 Coupe
    You can reuse the connector!

    There's already a connector that connects #6 and #7. The hose diameter on the portion of #6 that connects to #7 is a bit larger than the diameter of the #6 coming off of the thermostat housing but I reused it. Just spray it with some lube and it slides on easily.

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