you have another option, if you car is OBDII and you dont have the OBDI coolant adapter piece.
AKG makes a M50 coolant block off plate as well, but it comes with a PLUG to plug the "blue X" hose.
no further modifications are necessary when removing the heater core
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Mods: obd1 s52, SS replica headers, SS race mid-section, SS exhaust, euro intake, 3.5" hfm, turner tune, 24lb injectors, uuc flywheel, m5 clutch.
Pardon my question that has been answered a bunch in the thread, but is there a picture floating around, a diagram perhaps, that gives a visual of the above description. I'm currently in the middle of this and would like to see exactly how this hose connects to the t-stat.
Thanks
Mods: obd1 s52, SS replica headers, SS race mid-section, SS exhaust, euro intake, 3.5" hfm, turner tune, 24lb injectors, uuc flywheel, m5 clutch.
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Resurrecting this thread because I have a later model 98 323is and the configuration of the hoses is slightly different. I believe this diagram is what I have or close to it.
In mine, there is a metal pipe (#5 red in the pic below). I have removed the hose #9 blue and used the M50 block off plate at the head. And I've removed the #8 green hose from the heater core at the firewall. But the other end if this hose connected to the steel pipe. Can I just use a short piece of this hose to block that off? I'm assuming I can then keep the small hose #13 orange that runs up to the throttle body.
Remove the steel pipe and install this where the pipe used to be
http://store.bimmerworld.com/obd-i-c...pipe-p959.aspx
Then get a piece of 1" heater hose from your local auto parts store and connect it to hose #7 using one of these adapters
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=2938
Where hose #14 connects to the head is a great spot to install a water temp sending unit (or just a plug if you don't want that). I used this Bimmerworld adapter for my sending unit.
http://store.bimmerworld.com/extende...ter-p1402.aspx
Thanks. How should I go about removing the steel pipe? It's not obvious whether it's threaded in there or what. I see that the adapter comes with epoxy so it looks like it is just jammed in the hole with epoxy. But how is the OEM pipe attached?
Also, CAN I do as I said and just plug the one end of the OEM pipe.
Last edited by jimgood; 01-27-2015 at 12:35 PM. Reason: punctuation
The steel pipe is held in place by a metal tab with a bolt. Once you remove the bolt, you have to wiggle and pull back towards the firewall to remove it. Mine was a pain to remove and took a good bit of wiggling and pulling. Watch your knuckles for when it does finally pop loose. There is an o-ring on the one end you'll see after removing.
Yes, you can modify the steel pipe by plugging the ends you do not need. Some people have caps welded in place, others pinch the dead ends and weld them shut. I didn't like that idea because it creates dead legs where coolant and air pockets could potentially sit. IMO it's much cleaner and easier to use the Bimmerworld adapter like I described.
I appreciate the info. The only reason I'm hesitating to use the adapter is because I have a mechanic doing the R & R on the intake (I'm a wuss). He's scheduled to put it all back together tomorrow and I can't get the adapter in time. I've got a cage install scheduled and I still have a lot of other stuff to do before then. But, at least I know what my options are now. Thanks a million!
Last edited by jimgood; 01-28-2015 at 05:59 AM.
I know your pain, I went through the exact same thing right before Christmas. I had a shop do the intake since I didn't have the time and even with the little buffer time built into my schedule it was tight. If you do order the adapters, keep in mind that Bimmerworld is essentially next day shipping with UPS ground here in VA and Pegasus was very helpful making sure I got the adapter in 2 days.
Who is doing your work? What group/class are you building for?
The engine work is being done by a local mobile mechanic named Ryan Bascom. The cage install is scheduled with Piper Motorsports.
As for group/class, initially this is a track day build then maybe GTS1 (?) with NASA. Down the road it will probably be STU as I want the flexibility to do a non-BMW transplant.
This is probably a long shot but has anyone done this on an S62. There are two hoses coming off the back which I believe need to be re-circulated then the third port from the water pump I believe goes back to the coolant expansion tank.
I am still trying to wrap my head around this... So hopefully I am right in thinking:
Block off plate at hose #5 at back of head
Remove hose #5
Plug at hose #14 at head
Remove #11
Remove Hose #14 and #15
Make hose or cut and plug hose #6 from back of thermostat housing to lower expansion tank.
Thank you! Do you know the size of the male to male connector for hose 6 to 7 connection? I would like to buy the connector and have all the stuff so I can just knock it out without having to run out to the store in the middle of the job.
You can reuse the connector!
There's already a connector that connects #6 and #7. The hose diameter on the portion of #6 that connects to #7 is a bit larger than the diameter of the #6 coming off of the thermostat housing but I reused it. Just spray it with some lube and it slides on easily.
Thank you for the help I finally got around to doing it over the weekend. However after I buttoned everything up and started bleeding the system, the gasket sent with the block off plate didn’t do it’s job and started leaking out. So now I hope I can squeeze my arm and hand in there to take it off and use some rtv silicone to seal it up without taking the intake manifold back off
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