thrust (control) arm bushing replacement on 2003 530 question

[jasper7821]

I read the DIY although it's for a 540 and it looks quite involved.
I just changed my front hub-bearing today and what a pain.
Anyways, the first thing I did was remove the splash guard and the plastic cover that covers the bushing with 2 10mm bolts, then I removed a bunch of the wheel well plastic and had to bend an air intake plastic box looking thing to the bolt would come out from the arm.
After that the arm was free to move around.
Question is, how do I get the bushing out of the control arm, the DIY tells how to replace the whole arm, but I just want to do the bushing.
I need to change the bearing on the other side if I can find a way to get the 4 hub bolts out easier, and if I can then I'll change the bushing too at the same time since it arm needs to be free to change the bearing anyways.
Any help please on how to remove the bushing and install another one.
Thanks

[bimmerfiver]

Here is the DIY from Beisan Systems for the bushing:

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

That said. To be 100% direct, just replace the entire arm:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=884627

Contact EAC TUNING on the forum here. Mark or Jared. The debate to replace the entire arm versus just the bushing is in my opinion nearly unanimous.

[cnn]

1. Replacing ONLY the bushing is OK, but soon or later the balljoint goes.

2. Replacing with a stock Thrust arm (TRW pr Lemforder) is OK but the bushing is oil-filled, so with time (maybe 30-40K miles), the bushing goes again.

3. BEST is to buy TRW or Lemforder Thrust Arm BUT with Meyle HD Bushing installed in it by EACTuning dot com:
http://www.eactuning.com/e39-thrust-...ngs-p-453.html
It is worth the extra money.

[champaign777]

I was always think that oil-filled bushing is better than non oil-filled
I just recently installed new OEM oil-filled engine mounts and can feel the difference
Looks like these HD just give more life for Thrust arms ... maybe i missed something ...

[jasper7821]

OK, made my decision to replace the whole arm, I think that removal of the ball joint will be a lot easier that removing the bushing.
For the extra $150 or so, I don't need to but special tools and take forever to remove the bushings, I can just get a cheap ball joint removal tool.
http://www.eactuning.com/e39-thrust-...ngs-p-453.html
So, is this non-fluid one really better?

And what's the difference between these 2 arms besides the Lemforder being $40.00 more
Lemforder or TRW

[bimmerfiver]

OK, made my decision to replace the whole arm, I think that removal of the ball joint will be a lot easier that removing the bushing.
For the extra $150 or so, I don't need to but special tools and take forever to remove the bushings, I can just get a cheap ball joint removal tool.
http://www.eactuning.com/e39-thrust-...ngs-p-453.html
So, is this non-fluid one really better?

And what's the difference between these 2 arms besides the Lemforder being $40.00 more
Lemforder or TRW

Exactamundo!

Lemforder is OEM (original equipment replacement). It's pure Belgian Ale. TRW is a local homebrewer's version of Belgian Ale. Very good, but not OEM.

People are pumped about EAC's Myle HD Bushings. They are pure Belgian Ale control arms made by Lemforder...and the Myle HD bushings make them 9.0% alc instead of 6.0%.

Cool?

Here:
e39dream

mark@EAC Tuning


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[jasper7821]

Thanks, says require extra time, how mush extra time is needed to make a set up?

[bimmerfiver]

Thanks, says require extra time, how mush extra time is needed to make a set up?

I dunno, but Mark will. He's asleep right now, dreaming of M5's. Or he could be wide awake. Drop him a PM (private message). They actually press-in the Meyle HD bushings @ EAC, so they'll know what they have in stock and how fast they can get you rolling.

How old is your car and your under-car suspension parts? I ask cause if you're getting your hands dirty and did a nice job on wheel bearings, upper (aka thrust arms), please examine your tie rods and lower control arms. Consider them as well. Your car will drive like new.

[jasper7821]

Thank you,
I bought my car 4 months ago on Ebay from Chicago and had it trucked to California, it had 63,000 and I now have 76,000
I drive to Arizona every few weeks is where all the miles came from.
I will look and all the arms and links when I do the thrust arms as long as I can figure an easier way to remove the 4 bolts for the bearing and hub.
Any ideas on an easier way, air tools will not fit unless I remove the whole wheel carrier.

[bimmerfiver]

Thank you,
I bought my car 4 months ago on Ebay from Chicago and had it trucked to California, it had 63,000 and I now have 76,000
I drive to Arizona every few weeks is where all the miles came from.
I will look and all the arms and links when I do the thrust arms as long as I can figure an easier way to remove the 4 bolts for the bearing and hub.
Any ideas on an easier way, air tools will not fit unless I remove the whole wheel carrier.

Mark or Jared of EAC Tuning can either sell you the tool, recommend the tool or maybe someone can lend you the tool.

1). The wheel bearing replacement is really easy. I (really) think you're doing something wacky (see other thread) which is making it seem much harder than it is. The strut only needs to move a few inches (or the wheel carrier needs to slide down, however you perceive it). And this occurs by loosening the pinch bolt, prying the carrier open a little, removing a little, tiny sway bar link and bam, that's it! The all four wheel bearing bolts are easily accessible. Trust me, when you do the wheel bearing on the other side of the car, it'll take you under an hour.

2). Since you are 'there' and at 76K miles, it's 'the' time to hit those arms imo. Since you got three barrels into em', you ought to hang out there a while longer and blow up the shark; replace your upper (aka thrust arms) for sure. Strongly consider your lower control arms as well as tie rods.

Once you get the balljoint-separator-tool, they pop out and you're all set.

None of this is beyond you. If you've made it this far, you can finish the job! Mark and Jared are BMW pitcrew-pros. Mark could talk you through it etc.

[jasper7821]

Any assistance on removing the 4 bolts, they took 30 minutes each with a breaker bar, impact wrench would fit behind the wheel carrier, and the air ratchet wouldn't budge the bolts.

[jnyost]

Did you get all your questions answered?

Jared

[jasper7821]

Pretty much, unless there's an easier way to get the 4 hub bolts off. like I said, it took 30 minutes on each bolt.
Also, do I need not to take the thrust arm off of the chassis side like the DIY says to do. Someone said the carrier will move without taking it off, buy the DIY says to, although the DIY is for a 540

[e39dream]

the wheel bearing bolts can be a PITA- that's just how it is. If you put a universal joint and or extension in your impact setup you may be able to get at them.

[bimmerfiver]

Pretty much, unless there's an easier way to get the 4 hub bolts off. like I said, it took 30 minutes on each bolt.
Also, do I need not to take the thrust arm off of the chassis side like the DIY says to do. Someone said the carrier will move without taking it off, buy the DIY says to, although the DIY is for a 540

If I have to answer this for the fifth time, I will charge you $0.25 and it'll be via Paypal.

I am Obi Wanfiver on the front ends of these cars. Not by choice, by my own stupidity. I turned to the Dark Side on planet Slammage; I had too many aggressive suspensions which destroyed tie rods, sway bar links every few months and control arms every 5-6 months. So when I say you don't need to remove any control arm bushing on a 530 e39 in order to get the wheel carrier to fall, you do not.

The DIY you adhere to is for a 540. Your car is an X-wing, the 540 is a Y-wing. Remove a control arm bushing for a wheel bearing on your 530 is not necessary at all, but saying it nine times in a row won't make it any more correct.

However, you've removed the one arm and it'll be good practice for you as your goal is to replace both of your upper/aka front/aka thrust arms.

[champaign777]

Thank you,
I bought my car 4 months ago on Ebay from Chicago and had it trucked to California, it had 63,000 and I now have 76,000
I drive to Arizona every few weeks is where all the miles came from.
I will look and all the arms and links when I do the thrust arms as long as I can figure an easier way to remove the 4 bolts for the bearing and hub.
Any ideas on an easier way, air tools will not fit unless I remove the whole wheel carrier.

1. First time see that somebody bought car from Chicago to California .. mdaa ... I still struggle with my Chicago land suspension hehe
THE ROADS IN IL ARE EVIL - THEY ARE Washboard
2. Checked you steering rack / struts as well .
I guess after you will done with all arms you will be surprised
that you car still need attention .
Do you have any clicks in your steering ? check

If I have to answer this for the fifth time, I will charge you $0.25 and it'll be via Paypal.

I am Obi Wanfiver on the front ends of these cars. Not by choice, by my own stupidity. I turned to the Dark Side on planet Slammage; I had too many aggressive suspensions which destroyed tie rods, sway bar links every few months and control arms every 5-6 months. So when I say you don't need to remove any control arm bushing on a 530 e39 in order to get the wheel carrier to fall, you do not.

The DIY you adhere to is for a 540. Your car is an X-wing, the 540 is a Y-wing. Remove a control arm bushing for a wheel bearing on your 530 is not necessary at all, but saying it nine times in a row won't make it any more correct.

However, you've removed the one arm and it'll be good practice for you as your goal is to replace both of your upper/aka front/aka thrust arms.

this is impressive man ! tell us what we DON"T need to do with our suspension - do not make mistakes like you already passed .
We all will appreciate this ( me for sure ) ! thanks !

[bimmerfiver]

this is impressive man ! tell us what we DON"T need to do with our suspension - do not make mistakes like you already passed . We all will appreciate this ( me for sure ) ! thanks !

Fortunately it's all documented with anecdotes from Star Wars etc.

[champaign777]

Fortunately it's all documented with anecdotes from Star Wars etc.

"aggressive suspensions" - sport components - sport struts, brakes, etc ... ??