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That's the first time I hear a fan clutch can leak if laid flat!!! I find that very hard to believe as the clutch gets shipped and stored in any orientation. Also, if it's going to leak when flat on the ground, then it shouldn't it leak even more when under pressure spinning on the motor?!
Very good write up. I started doing my maintenance last night and forgot to order the fan clutch tool. For anyone else out there that's interested, if you remove your intake filter box, you have lots of room for access to the fan clutch nut. I had a 1 1/4" wrench handy and with a light bump with a hammer, it loosened. Having the box off also gave me lots of room to get my hand in there and easily remove the fan. I can't imagine that the fan clutch must be stored vertically (sounds like an old wives tale). But, i went ahead and did it anyway so as not to tempt fate.
is there a DIY on moving hydrolic tensioner pulleys? or how they remove?
I've done the fan clutch removal a number of times on both my e36 and e46 and use a piece of nylon cord or a shoe lace wrapped around the fan nut to remove and replace the fan once the tension is released. If you just loop it underneath the nut you can spin the fan off with a shoe shine motion. When re-installing wrap it around the nut and when the threads are started you can pull the cord to spin it back on. If the clutch is older the nut will spin easily so you can hold the fan by the blade and spin the nut on with the cord. New clutches turn harder but it still works. I'm planning on doing the water pump and thermostat tomorrow.
Just wanted to thank you for this DIY. Worked like a charm for my 2004 E46 convertible , automatic of course. I used this to access my thermostat. I ran into a snag I was wondering if someone could help with. The blue radiator plug under the expansion tank leaks... It's tightened snug but not crazy. The leak actually seems to be coming from the black nut which the radiator plug is sitting in. When I put a crescent wrench on the nut to try and snug that part, it leaks more. Is that bit something people are meant to tighten ? Anyone else run into this issue when changing a thermostat ?
The articles and DIY instructions are awesome. I recently changed the belts (serpentine and AC) upper rad hose, air filter, and alternator on a 2002 BMW 330CI (E46) Everything in this write up is perfect. However, things don't always go as planned. For instance, the tensioner (centre pulley with the T50 bolt) stipped completely while trying to loosen tension to place the serpentine belt back on the new alternator. At this point, I was unable to even slip the belt onto the alternator with the alternator pulley remove (top bolt) Thankfully, I didn't give up and found that you can use the socket as a lever to help move the tensioner just enough to put the belt onto the alternator. Then, take the top pulley and push down into the top of the belt while manoeuvring the top bolt of the alternator back into the groove. It's a tight fit, which you want and saved me from having to figure out how to remove a stripped bolt. So there's a "work-around," to getting everything to fit back together. At this point, I need to get the mechanical fan back into the car (yes, I overheated after driving for about 45 minutes) It seems like it should be easy to thread the bolt, but proved to be very difficult. Will try one more time before going to a pro. Hope this helps someone who feels like giving up.
*update* the fan wasn't as difficult as I thought. It threaded back on and the fan shroud helped guide the path. Last step, clean the engine.
Last edited by p.a.r.t.y; 06-28-2019 at 04:17 AM.
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