Went to the bone yard with Kevin -looking for e21 parts. Could not find one.
went to the VW area found a mk3 with two BBS RA rims, on the rear.
Walked a few cars down and found something on a car's roof. I turned it over and PRESTO - a mint BBS RM center cap and ring. Scored one! What are the chances of that happening. Now I just have to order 3 more...
My camera is down right now but it looks like this one....
Last edited by jjgbmw323; 02-13-2010 at 09:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
a quick mock up...with the junkyard centercap
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
To the BBS gurus in the haus: I found some RM's in need of some work and have some questions. On a euro 323 very lowered on coilovers, Will 1" or 1.5" lips create interference with the fenders (rolled), especially in the rear?
The "offset" of a wheel - what distance does this number actually define? I just can't visualize it or what the effect using spacers has.
Thanks for your wisdom - I love these wheels and I'm excited to get to cracking on them!
-Chad
Here are the offsets for a BBS RS, just subtract 1 from the et's to get the RM's:
1.0” = 15x7 et 27.65
1.5” = 15x7.5 et 21.3
2.0” = 15x8 et14.95
2.5” = 15x8.5 et 8.6
3.0” =15x9 et2.25
So if you put a 1.5" lip your ET will be +20 so you will be fine even without the rolled fenders and running 205/55 tires.
Just a reminder this guide suggests using 100% silicone sealant, this is in fact not the best idea. Silicone shrinks as it cures if you are not careful with your bead when assembling you could end up with leaks in the final product. There a few manufacturers that make specific wheel sealants that do not shrink while curing or under heat stress.
Follow these instructions from R3vlimited.
Sealing Wheel Shells:
1. Clean the mating surfaces with laquer thinner and let dry.
2. Bolt the two shells together "DRY" and torque to spec.
3. Lay thin bead of silicone in the crack between the mating surfaces and smooth. Let it dry overnight.
4. Re-apply a bead over the first and smooth out to about a 1.0" bead width and smooth.
If you follow this procedure your wheels will never leak. The reason you don't want silicone between the halves is because all silicone shrinks as it cures. As is shrinks the pressure between the shells changes and your torque changes. BBS use a different system. I wouldnt worry about how the silicone looks. Once you put a tire on you cant see it anyway. The last thing to want is to be driving down the road and get a flat because you didnt use enough sealant. Kodiak suggests to all of their customers that they recheck the torque after you run the wheels for the first time. Just make a few turns each way and quickly recheck (just check don't tighten more).
One recommended product for sealing wheel halves is called Toyota Seal 10* (can't remember the last number) also known as FIPG or as it sounds "Fipige." It is only available at the dealer, 3 oz. cost near 15 dollars, no silicone in it, I believe, but it will seal almost unsealable things. Generally, and good quality RTV silicone sealant will work perfectly, though. Dow Corning 832 Multi Surface Adhesive Sealant was also recommended. Kinesis Motorsports also recommends a sealant called, Shin-Etsu Silicone (1 Component RTV). This is available from Kinesis Motorsports directly.
With the euro at low point I just purchased polished 1/2 caps and brand new 120 chrome/silver bolts to finish the RMs. I am going to have the barrels repainted silver, and I have the valve stems already.
Cant wait to get these items. I got them from Hoffman racing in Germany.
Will update pics when I get them in, and get them assembled.
Question what socket do you all use when you put these together?
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
I have a question:
What is the inner lip (shell?) width on RS 001's? I need to buy two and am not completely sure which ones I should get.
BTW, if any of you guys know of any for sale in good used condition please let me know. New ones are pricey.
TIA,
HarryPR
'81 320/6 Baur (#2569)
BMW CCA # 19290
The RS 001 is a 7 inch wide wheel with a 1" outter. This means that the inner is 5.5". I can check the inners I have at home. I'm thinking mine are 6". If I have a 5.5" or two I might sell them to you.
That would be great if you could, Neek.
I had all four, but somehow "lost" two. Plans are to use them on my 2002 with some 1/2" outer lips I have.
Thanks,
HarryPR
'81 320/6 Baur (#2569)
BMW CCA # 19290
I might be able to use the 6" ones in the back if I can't find 5 1/2" ones. Might need a small spacer. Sort of a "stealth staggered" setup. I might be interested in the outer lips also.
Shoot me a PM or email when you have a chance with how much $$ you need for the stuff you have. My email is harrypr at gmail dot com.
Thanks again!
HarryPR
'81 320/6 Baur (#2569)
BMW CCA # 19290
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
Last edited by jjgbmw323; 08-18-2010 at 01:20 PM.
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
Half caps and chrome bolts are in from germany. I installed one bolt on the rim with the lip on it, and hand tighted it. The lip moved since I was trying to force the center cap on, and now underneath the bolt there is the outline of the back of the bolt on the lip. Did not realize how super careful you have to be! I am sure you will not see this, but was amazed how a mark can be left on these lips easily....
Second observation: Factory RM center caps clip on to the hub of the wheel and can be easily removed. The 1/2 RM caps have a rubber ring that seals itself to the hub of the wheel. Once on I have no idea how to remove the center caps and honeycomb piece under it. It does not screw onto the wheel like the RS. I acutally had to resort to a screw driver and jam in between the honeycomb and the the wheel barrel. I am not sure I will like this when I have the rims mounted and painted and have to change my tire.
Any ideas about this.
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
Get a piece of flat plastic (they sell specialty versions for pulling panels, cheap at harbor freight) and use one on each side to force it up without bending it. The plastic won't scratch the finish like a screwdriver, and a wider surface will spread out the force.
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...set-95832.html
or http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...set-67021.html
would probably be perfect. Good for removing trim inside cars too.
Have ordered #3 of 4 center caps. Will order the last one this week, and then the RMs are going out for Silver paint and assembly. I also got a socket from Germany along with the 1/2 center caps....
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
Lets keep this thread for building the rims please.
"..Horsepower is a measure of work done over time, or the rate at which work is done."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/579694/1
nevermind.
Last edited by TheNeek; 08-18-2010 at 04:14 PM.
JOE!! Make a thread for your wheel build please and update us there!
Good info. Im building a set of magnesium three piece Alpina race wheels for my E9. Ive just ordered all the parts from BBS and finished restoring the centers.
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