Metallic clanging, ringing noise from underneath car

[JRanmann]

Perhaps the wifey ran over a band of Sufi dancers and just forgot to mention it?

[Seeker]

just a WAG.. but doesnt this clutch have springs in the clutch disk? I'm sure it does..

I know, I know.. very unlikely source of the sound, but it was a thought..


do you know exactly how many miles are on the current clutch assy. in your car? including the TO bearing?

if it's high and you are going to all the trouble to lift the car and pull the driveshaft.. THEN would be the time to go ahead and drop the trans. and refresh your clutch assy., trans. mounts, etc since you are about half way there by the time you got the DS off and putting on new guibo bolts that SHOULD be replaced ANYTIME you take them off..


to me it just seems you have covered alot of the "easy fix" areas and by the time you goto all the trouble to change the DS with a high mile clutch.. go ahead and refreshe the clutch while your at it if it is high miles..

but I can completely understand that it's like an extra $350 to go that deep into it


I'm more favored to a bad throw out bearing in your case as others have stated many times.

[M6csi]

The clutch was changed about 2 years and roughly 20,000 miles ago. Definitely not clutch related.

[M6csi]

Problem solved! Installed the rebuilt driveshaft and all the noises are gone. Car is running smoothly with no DS vibration issues.

One tip in removing and tightening of bolts on the differential end, remove and tighten bolts with the rear wheels resting on ground and parking brakes on and transmission in neutral. Otherwise, the diff will just spin when the bolts are being turned. These are pressed in bolts with no hex head to accommodate a wrench or a socket. Jack up the front of the car only and there should be just enough clearance to access the bolts. One can also place some wood in between ground and wheels to gain extra working room.

When installing guibo on the driveshaft and the tranny flange, insert all 6 bolts on the guibo first with 3 bolt facing one direction and with the other 3 bolts facing the opposite end. Insert guibo into the tranny flange first and loosely tighten with self locking nuts then insert DS into tranny centering pin. Finally tighten all the bolts and nuts and torque to 34 ft/lbs. All the various manual instructions stipulate that torquing should not be done on the bolt head end as this will put too much stress on the rubber guibo. But this method is not possible with the nuts facing the tranny as there is no space to use a torque wrench. I just tightened all these 3 bolts by turning the nuts semi-tightly and finally torqued the bolt heads to the stated values. Using this method will minimally turn the bolt heads, thereby avoiding damage to the guibo.

If you don't have any extra long handle metric 17mm and 19mm combination wrenches, get them. Without the extra leverage provided by these long handle wrenches, it would simply be almost impossible to remove and install the DS mounting bolts and nuts.

Now is also a perfect time to renew all the rubber exhaust hangers since the whole exhaust system is out. Even if they still look good, replace them anyway. You don't want to go under the car again and having to change the hangers 6 months down the line.

Without access to a lift, all my work was done with a floor jack and stands. This is dangerous work, so use extra caution when positioning stands underneath car.

[CW6er]

Good write-up!
Just one thing If the guibo has arrows on the edge. The bolts go through in the direction of the arrow, the arrow points to the flange and, as you say, the nut tightens on the flange side.