DIY- Subframe bushing removal/Install tool.... easy to use, for uber cheap!

[Hellrot99M3]

FYI, I found this set on sale at Harbor Freight a few years back and it handled pretty much every bushing on an E36. I don't know if it will work on the Z3/E30 rear subframe bushings, but I'm getting ready to do my bushings soon. I guess I'll find out.

[couchflyer]

I am going to replace my bushings this spring. Is the tool still available?

[Krohn27]

I made my own tool this past week. The cost of the pipe and cap has gone up (or at least locally). I was into the pipe nipple and cap $53...

[JustinHalverson]

I made my own tool this past week. The cost of the pipe and cap has gone up (or at least locally). I was into the pipe nipple and cap $53...

I paid more than that two years ago. I think it depends on competition. In my small city there aren't many options for specialty plumbing materials. Those that are here can pretty much get whatever they ask.

[kungfooren]

I wanted to build this tool but I think here is cheaper and just as effective option:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...bushing-puller

sorry if it's a repost.

[PbFut]

I wanted to build this tool but I think here is cheaper and just as effective option:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...bushing-puller

sorry if it's a repost.

Though an option, you risk the lip of the bushing giving up and the puller slipping off unless heat is applied to the cup releasing the rubber. The pipe and cap is probably the only home made tool strong enough to avoid applying heat to the carrier and damaging the coating. Remember, the plastic gas tank is inches away from the right side bushing so you have that little detail to consider when heating as well.

[Swaybars]

Though an option, you risk the lip of the bushing giving up and the puller slipping off unless heat is applied to the cup releasing the rubber. The pipe and cap is probably the only home made tool strong enough to avoid applying heat to the carrier and damaging the coating. Remember, the plastic gas tank is inches away from the right side bushing so you have that little detail to consider when heating as well.

I second this. There is a tremendous amount of force needed to pull the bushing out without heat. I don't think there is enough engagement area on the lip of the bushing to support the force coming through the 3 jaws.
I used the pipe version of the tool when I did my bushings and the washers in that tool bent from the force.

[Muzz258]

Hi

I use this system. Purchased a steering wheel puller kit to get the bridge. Bolts on the bridge grip the edge of the cup, have filed groves in the bolt heads to assist with this. Large washers and long bolt all the way through to provide the pulling pressure.

Requires the removal of the whole sub-frame and diff from the car in order to get the long bolt through the bush to the bridge.

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[ProductUser]

Here's what I used to remove my subframe bushings. The cost of making this was around $15. I did apply just enough heat, using a propane torch, to free up the bushing from the its housing. Removing the bushing using this method took about 5 minutes/side.

Let me add...you're just heating those dimples so they can pass through the bushing as it's being pushed out.

I gave the tool to one of our members.

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[Randy Forbes]

Hi

I use this system. Purchased a steering wheel puller kit to get the bridge. Bolts on the bridge grip the edge of the cup, have filed groves in the bolt heads to assist with this. Large washers and long bolt all the way through to provide the pulling pressure.

Requires the removal of the whole sub-frame and diff from the car in order to get the long bolt through the bush to the bridge. Still need to heat the cup. Used it 3 times now without issues. Repaint the cup where there is minor heat damage on the outside.

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Pretty clever!

One tip: greasing the bolt where the nut passes during the pull will increase the tool's life tremendously; I got well over a hundred (>100) s/f bushes pulled before replacing the bolt on my SIR tool (relatively fine threads, as you'll find on most store-bought types).
I know a group of guys that had the bolt fail on them with SIR's similar tool on the third bush__halfway into the second of several cars they had planned to do that day. The difference? They used a dry bolt.

[pauliescff]

Can anyone tell me if this setup will work on an e34 5 series?

[couchflyer]

Does anyone have a tool they would be willing to let me borrow if I pay shipping?
Thanks

[pauliescff]

Anyone???

[kungfooren]

Bumping this up. I'm finally doing my RSBs and would like to rent a tool if available.

[s8ilver]

I have a tool I can loan...I imagine a USPS flat rate is the way to go, but not sure which size fits the tool.

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I used a heat gun on high and it was at most 5 minutes a side. Specifically, this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-H...rch_detailpage

[PbFut]

Looks like an older version of the tool. The group has concluded that if you use the softer, non hardened rod, which is much easier to obtain, you should use rod connectors over simple nuts. You have more threads on the rod with a connector. Also, it is very important to lubricate the rod. If it is an older tool, this one looks pretty clean.

[s8ilver]

J just bought the car last October and made the tool a couple months later. The rod was whatever 1/2" stuff they carry at Home Depot these days, and yes, I lubed as I turned a ratcheting wrench. The old bushings came out like warm butter, and they looked so good that my buddy actually kept them.

[couchflyer]

s8ilver is sending me his bushing tool, thank you Nathan.

[kungfooren]

I'm attempting this now but cannot get the darn 22mm rear subframe nut loose on either side. Tried soaking in PB overnight, 2ft breaker bar, and even some propane torch heat. Even my electric (~240ft/lbs) impact wrench couldn't get them loose. Do people find that they have to use air impact wrenches to loosen this nut?
Thanks

[Muzz258]

Wow that's a lot of force you are applying. Sure you are turning it to loosen it? I have done two set to sub-frame bushings and never had an issue getting the 22mm nuts free. Its a crush nut, so it will put up some fight all the way along the tread, but they have all come free with a standard breaker bar and long reach 22 mm socket.

[kungfooren]

Wow that's a lot of force you are applying. Sure you are turning it to loosen it? I have done two set to sub-frame bushings and never had an issue getting the 22mm nuts free. Its a crush nut, so it will put up some fight all the way along the tread, but they have all come free with a standard breaker bar and long reach 22 mm socket.

yah. it's surprising. Does it help if I remove the 2 hex (M8) bolts? Maybe jack up the subframe slightly to take weight off the nut?

[Randy Forbes]

yah. it's surprising. Does it help if I remove the 2 hex (M8) bolts? Maybe jack up the subframe slightly to take weight off the nut?

WHile they eventually have to come out, loosening them now/jacking, etc., isn't going to make any difference getting those nuts loose.

Looking at the fastener from the bottom, it's counter-clockwise to remove, so just get a cheater-pipe over the end of the breaker bar and cross your fingers (that the stud doesn't come unscrewed from the body before the nut breaks loose__then it gets real fun...).

[kungfooren]

Thanks for the suggestions. Will try again next weekend when I will have a cheater bar and maybe even an Aircat 1150 impact wrench. Randy, is it a big concern if the stud comes unscrewed from the body? Maybe the stud just comes out with the subframe? I'm just really hoping nothing snaps.

[Randy Forbes]

Thanks for the suggestions. Will try again next weekend when I will have a cheater bar and maybe even an Aircat 1150 impact wrench. Randy, is it a big concern if the stud comes unscrewed from the body? Maybe the stud just comes out with the subframe? I'm just really hoping nothing snaps.

No, not a permanent problem, once all is said and done, you can screw it back into the body and torque it down__assuming that you have deep enough sockets (plural)...

However, if the stud unscrews from the body while the compressive force of the nut clamped to the subframe bushing remains, then you will fight unscrewing the stud the entire time until that L O N G threaded stud is free of the body (while simultaneously lowering the opposite side, attempting to keep it from binding).

I modified a 27mm deep socked to be turned with a second deep (1-1/8") socket to properly torque the studs to the body.

[kungfooren]

Finally got my subframe out over the weekend--Air impact wrench took it off in 5 seconds... I've been living without one for so long!

I built a few adaptations to the subframe tool. Used a bridge from Autozone Loan-a-tool timing puller.

2 configurations: A. bolt through the hole, and B. jaw puller. B came in handy when A ended up tearing the bushings instead of pulling it out as seen in picture.

Photo Apr 30, 11 57 28 AM.jpgPhoto Apr 30, 12 46 59 PM.jpg
Note that the subframe in the pics are from an E30, not my Z3M. Same idea.