DIY- Subframe bushing removal/Install tool.... easy to use, for uber cheap!

[Gibber66]

PM sent your way.

Expect it to be on it's way tomorrow!

[Gibber66]

Okay, it's sent. Boarider will soon be the "new possessor" of the mighty DIY subframe bushing tool. Shared the following with him in PM, but thought I should share with the group for anyone who will join the ranks of the DIY tool graduates:


"When you try to use it, don't just use the tool by itself. I tried and it just wouldn't hold on the edge of the cylinder of the subframe that the bushing sits in...kept slipping over it every time (ADDED NOTE: in previous posts, you'll see people using screwdrivers to jam it...didn't work either...hence my solution). Thought it was a lost cause, then came up with a very simple and perfect solution. The subframe (right where it connects with the cylinder that the bushing sits in) has two open flanges on each side of the cylinder. I took two prying forks (ADDED NOTE: AKA tie-rod separators) and jammed one end in the flange opening and the other end was right at the bottom lip of the cylinder preventing the tool from riding up over the cylinder. Worked like a charm. Here's a picture of what that looked like.

Didn't have to heat it up or anything. Just sprayed the "bolt" with some liquid wrench before hand, "locked" the two bolts on the top side against each other, propped a crescent wrench at the top for reverse pressure and used a ratchet socket wrench on the bottom. Didn't really have to force it. Just gave it a good number of tight turns and let it sit a couple of minutes to allow the rubber bushing to slide, then tighten it up a bit more, and so on. The first bit was probably the hardest, but I didn't want to overtorque it (heard of others snapping the bolt shaft...there's two spares in the box...but that's where the liquid wrench spray came into play when I did it and patience to let the bushing slide under pressure little by little).

As you've probably read, removing or pulling away the wheel well liner helped a lot as far as access. I didn't remove it completely just pulled it away in that area and then repositioned it and screwed it back in (only took the first 2-3 liner screws out on each side).

Don't know what bushings you're going with (I went with IE), but when you put them in, there is a top part and a bottom part. Also, they're tight so you might need a good c-clamp to press them in (could do it by hand, but the c-clamp was easier) and then use some painter's/masking tape to hold the top and bottom tight together and in place until you can slip the whole thing in the subframe over the two mounting bolts...otherwise, the moment you try to align them and push them up the mounting bolts, one will be slightly out of alignment and will pop right back out of the subframe...ask me how I know. (ADDED NOTE: think this was mentioned in a previous post as well)."

Hope this helps the next DIY tool "possessor"!

Cheers,
Gibber

[Boarider]

For the record I have the tool from Gibber.
I'll post up when I'm done with it.

[crashgordan]

thanks for posting... learning a ton

[Jkolala74]

PM sent your way.

Hi Guys,

I am in need of the tool. Is it still out there to borrow? Please if you have it e-mail me jkolala@cox.net.

Thanks,

[Boarider]

Yep, I have it.
I'll email you this afternoon on shipping.

[PbFut]

Looking at the picture a few posts down, using a rod connector in stead of a standard nut provides much more thread contact, reducing possible damage to the rod threads. Lubing the rod thread is also a good idea. Heat helps, but not needed if you use the previous trick. The PbFut tool works well and there are many who have used. The commercial tool is obviously better if you can find one.

[Swaybars]

I replaced by OEM subframe bushings this weekend using the tool described in this thread. Everything worked beautifully!
Here are my observations and notes:

- I got the pipe pieces from a local plumbing supply store and the hardware from Home Depot
- Used non-hardened threaded rod with a rod connector and lubed the rod with motor oil, as suggested. The rod and the connector were not damaged at all.
- Did NOT have to use heat, the bushings came right out!
- I disconnected the drive shaft from the diff, but found out I didn't have to. Lower the subframe just enough so that it comes off the mounting studs. That is good enough to get the tool on.
- New AKG bushings went in easy. The hardest part was aligning the subframe so that the aluminum sleeves in the bushings went onto the studs. I used 2 jacks to position the subframe at the correct angle so that the sleeves did not bind on the studs, one on the rear of the diff close to the diff cover and one on the front, closer to the input flange.

Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread!

I also replaced the RTABs at the same time. The OEM ones that came out looked worn on the narrower side of the bushing. It would have been much easier to do the RTABs if I removed the subframe from the car. There is very little room to work. I used AKG replacement bushings and their RTAB tool. The tool works, but it was not as easy as the subframe bushing tool. Some of the threads got damaged in the process of cranking in the new bushings. The AKG instructions recommend to trim away the bushing end so that you can pull the bushing out. I did this on the first one, but it was hard to keep the bolt from spinning when I cranked on the nut. So I only trimmed a little bit off the next bushing, this kept the bolt from spinning and the bushing still came out. Putting in the new ones requires much more force than the subframe bushings and you have to use the RTAB tool again.

The rear end feels more planted and seems to follow the road surface more precisely. That also means there is less isolation from bumps.

[gbirkemeier]

I too recently did this job with a modified version of the home made removal tool. In the absence of 3" iron pipe I used some reinforced ABS pipe and a metal plate with a hole in it from the framing isle. Works fine, but definitely only a 1 use tool.

2014-05-31 13.35.16.jpg 2014-05-31 14.20.04.jpg

[PuyE36M3]

Price of the 3" cap and nipple must've grown significantly over the years. I bought 1/2" Grade 8 NF rod. I used heavy grease on the rod. My subframe is out of the car. Bushings came out easily, without heat, and without any wear to the rod. For locals, I'm up for renting it out.

Brian

[gmushial]

Even though Grainger tends to be the "high price leader" (my local steel-house tends to be 20-30% less), these are the Grainger prices and links:

3" cap $22.74 http://www.grainger.com/product/Cap-...Code=P2IDP2PCP
6" nipple $19.84 http://www.grainger.com/product/Nipp...Code=P2IDP2PCP
5" nipple $17.52 http://www.grainger.com/product/Nipp...Code=P2IDP2PCP
4" nipple $13.21 http://www.grainger.com/product/Nipp...Code=P2IDP2PCP

Although I used the 6" nipple, I think it was needlessly long, and a 5" would work fine... and strongly suspect (though no personal experience and somebody should try and post their experience - the 4" would work fine also, if one wanted to save a few bucks or was tight on working space). Likewise, since the cap is the most expensive item, suspect one could replace it with some 1/2" steel plate [scrap yard price: under $5]. These prices are from Grainger's online catalog as of this morning (and are up 1-2% from their 2013 deadtree catalog).

[Boarider]

I sold my car and still have this tool sitting in my shed.

I need an address to ship it to.

email me at harleyrider29@yahoo.com

[spacecowboy]

- New AKG bushings went in easy. The hardest part was aligning the subframe so that the aluminum sleeves in the bushings went onto the studs. I used 2 jacks to position the subframe at the correct angle so that the sleeves did not bind on the studs, one on the rear of the diff close to the diff cover and one on the front, closer to the input flange.

What color AKG sub-frame bushings, & did you replace the differential bushing?

I used AKG replacement bushings and their RTAB tool. The tool works, but it was not as easy as the subframe bushing tool. Some of the threads got damaged in the process of cranking in the new bushings.

Those are the black colored bushings.

[mspohn]

I'm about to do this on my E36 m3 to replace the bushings while I am repairing the rear sway bracket mounts with reinforcing plates.

sounds like less disassembly will be required than i thought as I was expecting to have to remove the entire rear. probably should also do RTABs -anything else I should do that won't require a lift and full removal of the rear?

Anyone have the tool I can borrow and send on?

Thanks!

[m34ever]

I am looking for the tool as well, looking to do my subframe on labor day. Thanks!

[pipiyangtw]

Thanks for share.

[boost4boobs]

I sold my car and still have this tool sitting in my shed.

I need an address to ship it to.

email me at harleyrider29@yahoo.com

Is this tool still available ?

[afb]

I might need to borrow the tool as well this spring

[SunzOut]

I got this done this weekend. Was easier than I thought but still took a few hours.

I found I had to disconnect the drive shaft as I could not get the subframe off the either bolt. Used a 12" stainless steel rod with a couple of nuts and a rod connector. No heat was needed. Use a small pry-bar rather than a screw driver to wedge down the side.

One thing I had not seem before was the old bushing had a lip on the bottom, that I had to dremel off before I could get the 3" pipe into position.

[BlackBMWs]

Thanks for the write up! In need to do this on a few of my E36s,

[atopa2002]

Anyone has the tool to borrow, will pay shipping?

[killab18]

I picked up the parts but noticed that the 3" pipe does not fit over my oem bushings.

I am doing this for my 01 m3. Am i setting something up wrong?

[PbFut]

It should fit. If not, you could grind a little of the lip on the OEM bushing. Just be carful not to go so deep as to hit the frame. You sure you got 3" and not 2.5" pipe? There should be plenty room.

[spacecowboy]

I picked up the parts but noticed that the 3" pipe does not fit over my oem bushings.

I am doing this for my 01 m3. Am i setting something up wrong?

It's a different sub-frame.

[killab18]

It's a different sub-frame.

Yea i see that now. Lol i was trying to find in any of the pays to see if anyone said what subframe its for.

I'm gonna return it and see if i can get 3 1/2" pipe