DIY- Subframe bushing removal/Install tool.... easy to use, for uber cheap!

[cushjbc]

I finished the IE RSFB install today using the tool prescribed in this thread. The only things I disconnected were the rear brake line brackets, parking brake line from clip, lower sway bar links which also disconnects a brake line bracket, lower shock bolts, 2 x rear exhaust hangers (rear most mount was broken - no idea how long) and I completely removed the wheel well liners because I got sick of fighting them.

I really struggled with the right side bushing because my washer setup was poor. As @PbFut suggests, a very strong washer almost the size of the bushing is what works best. I cut some scrap steel and ground out a pulling disc that completely covered the inner metal sleeve of the OE bushing. I ground relief notches in it to allow passage by the dimples. The target diameter for such a disc is 56mm. The steel was 1/8" thick and it still deformed a little getting the right side out after I pulled the center out with ordinary washers. When I moved to the left side, I flipped the pulling disc over and all went well.

I used 1/2" all thread and a rod connector at the pulling end with the standard two nut lock setup at the top. I really struggled with keeping the pipe straight - I tried pry bars, hex sockets and use of the subframe channels too stop the upward creep of the pipe to no avail. As a result, my all thread rod bent several times so I rotated the assembly to counteract this. I used a large rubber mallet to strike the free side of the pipe cap when it was under extreme tension to coerce the initial few millimeters of movement; applied several minutes of heat just prior to doing this. Many have described the very slow movement at the first part of the pull. I will attest to that and noted that as soon as you pass the upper dimple, you will be cranking the rod coupler non stop to the point where the bushing drops into the pipe and the whole thing drops to the floor - watch your feet if doing this on a lift.

Alignment of the subframe for the new bushings is a bit of a challenge. I used three floor jacks, two additional jack stands and a loading strap to pull the subframe back into alignment. I think the driveshaft is what causes the subframe to move forward as the whole assembly arcs downward when you drop it. I read in a previous recent post here to elevate the differential to a point that is 3" below the differential mount. I will elaborate here and suggest that the 3" is from mount hole to differential bushing hole (YMMV).

As with any major project, I found some items that need further attention:

1. Rear exhaust hanger bracket broken
2. Aft right rocker seal plug rotted out
3. Missing hardware on both sides of wheel well liners - solved with BMW spare parts I have on hand

I worked alone on this project and did a lot of cleaning so it took 3 days for me - much of that was wasted time until I decided to fabricate a pulling disc in lieu of washers. You can see in the pictures below that I pulled the center of my right side RSFB out. I completely trashed my all thread, rod coupler and 3" pipe. I'm keeping my home made pulling disc as a souvenir. The pipe cap is in good shape and free to anyone who needs one and is willing to pay shipping via PayPal. I'm guessing shipping is one third the cost of a new cap and I've already drilled the 1/2" hole in the center. PM if interested.

IE RSFB Install (4).jpg IE RSFB Install (6).jpg IE RSFB Install (9).jpg IE RSFB Install (13).jpg IE RSFB Install (12).jpg

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread and the RSFB replacement process.

[saneesh8]

Good that you were able to do it like this..

I pulled the the whole rear assembly out to replace it. Used the Powerflex bushings. Also replaced the trailing arm bushings (used OEM, not poly). It took more time.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...he-outer-shell

[yinzerinmass]

Is anyone out there renting the proper tool? I struck out on one lead, and do not really feel right asking a local shop if they are willing to loan out or rent the tool. All the tool posts that I have found are very old, with members not active for several years.

Im a little surprised these or even knock offs aren't on ebay
Making the tool is well within my ability, which I'm prepared to do, but giving it one last shot

send me a pm

[zellamay]

I'm one of those that made a tool per this thread and sold it. You might want to check out this thread, post #13 and after.
.https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...shing-Question
.

[yinzerinmass]

Well I completed the job over the course of the weekend. Due to the apparent scarcity of finding the exact tool, Used the 2 jaw puller and modified pittman arm puller to get the subframe bushings out. If things seemed like they were going to act up or this wasn't working I would have resorted to something else, or taken it in, but it was fine for me.

No real big fuss with that method, takes some patience to pull slow and not tear up the lip.

If your puller is well used, make sure as someone else said, sharpen the jaws and I filed a couple shallow grooves for a little more bite.

In the pittman arm bolt, when you cut that off cutting it square and drilling a "detent" deep enough to accept the tip of the puller is a must, otherwise the tool will kick over and loud swears will ensue. here's a couple pics...
IMG_1739.jpg
NBGF7636.jpg
This car is a 2000 M roadster, 91000 miles. That's how I found the old bushings, I'd like to know how normal that is for it to be sagged and separated like that. I definitely was feeling the rear wheel steering sensation at autocross which is what prompted this job. I wanted to get it done with 2 events left on the season to try out with urethane bushings.


IMG_1744.jpg
The trophy of the weekend

IMG_1754.jpg
AKG Bushing in place. Went in with hand pressure.

IMG_1752.jpg
Proof that it went back together

To the previous posters, thanks for the help, the links and tips here are really valuable.

[zellamay]

I'm unable to see your pics.

[yinzerinmass]

Can you see them now?

[ProductUser]

That's a nasty looking bushing. Mine didn't look that bad.

[solimans]

Can you see them now?

They are showing for me. Nice work sir


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BETO]

Has anyone experience any issues with the green IE bushings? Mine pretty much fell apart, the bottom lip crumbled like old bread20191019_134743.jpg20191019_135011.jpg

[Zoupe6]

IE had a bad batch that crumbled over time. Contact IE and see if they will replace them.

[BETO]

I already got the AKG 85 set to be installed this weekend

[Randy Forbes]

Nice setup. Looks like the type of flanged bolts that I supply, if so, thanks!

[PbFut]

Looking at that cover, does it cause heat issues? The OEM M cover has some very good cooling fins that appear to me well designed. The OEM M cover must pull a lot of heat out of the diff fluid. Whats the fluid look like coming out of these diffs missing those fins?

[yinzerinmass]

[QUOTE=Randy Forbes;30351941]Nice setup. Looks like the type of flanged bolts that I supply, if so, thanks!

Randy,
Good eye, and you're welcome. Your kit was installed by Jake Wile at Wile Motorsport last winter. My car is the Oxford Green roadster he posted a few pics of to FB. Excellent shop, I try to do what I can myself, but he's one of my first calls if I need some help.

PBFut, I think I will ask your same question in a separate post. I personally don't have the experience to say if the diff cover makes a difference.

[afb]

Finally got around to installing SFBs, RTABs and FLCABs. Here’s a series on replacing the first two using a simple tool off Amazon. No modification of tools, no burning bushings, no bleeding brake lines, no removal of e-brake cables, no disconnecting drive shaft, no fussing w/ trying to reinstall the subframe. Easy to do it solo w/ 1 jack. Hope this helps!

Part 1 - Prep & Disassembly https://youtu.be/XJmcdVpCSP8

Part 2 - RTABs
https://youtu.be/MftRRShmDiA

Part 3 - Subframe Bushings
https://youtu.be/FAwhU2zq8QM

[sjfuqua]

I know this is an old thread -- but clearing out my garage and came across the DIY tool featured in the first post.

Worked well on my 2000 Z3, applying heat with a HF heat gun to help it along.

Picture attached.

Glad to pass it on for the cost of shipping (about $16.10 USPS) for someone preparing to replace their subframe bushings.

PM me if interested.IMG_3502.jpeg

[s8ilver]

Nice of you. I also have one available for free rental in the Denver area. No deposit required; I'll just bash you online if you never return it.

20151106_171615.jpg

[Hoyt Clagwell]

No deposit required; I'll just bash you online if you never return it.

I can live with that.

[Z3eattle]

Hats off to member "afb" 4 posts above. The two jaw puller referenced is THE diy z3 subframe bushing tool.

I bought mine for $90 at HF but it came with a bunch of other front end service tools. I think you can buy the single tool itself for ~$50 online.

I used a carriage bolt, pyramid of progressively larger washers with largest being 50mm diameter, some 1" flat bar wedged in subframe slots, and the two jaw tool.

Took me less then 20 minutes to remove subframe bushings and RTABs.
IMG_1781.jpg IMG_1782.jpg IMG_1783.jpg IMG_1784.jpg