Its sagging pretty bad, in fact the guibo has worn a hole in it where it was resting on the guibo itself about the size of a tennis ball. I tried 3M adhesive spray, didn't work, I tried hot glue...worked to a point, but still not happy with it.
A ton of rubber cement is next and try that? Can't find a part number for it to order a new piece. I don't think dynomat insulates heat so thats kinda out. And I really don't think its a good idea to tear out completely is it?
Where exactly do you trim it at?
Last edited by shogun; 12-16-2015 at 05:10 AM.
I used thin galvanized flatbar and made an upside U shaped support. I had no luck with spray adhesive over the long term. You could make two U supports. A couple of years later, I notice some sagging closer to the tranny. My support is back by the rear of the shifter mount if my memory is right.
i pulled all that shit out. cut it just past the tranny where it becomes part of the engine shield.
havent noticed any difference in heat or sound.
Cheif Senior Hitman Engineer 1st Class
BfcOT Mafia
Yeah, if you search, you'll see that most people just rip it out. That's what I did. I trimmed back as much as I could reach. Mine was rubbing hardcore on my guibo and driveshaft.
Last edited by shogun; 12-16-2015 at 05:11 AM.
There's a part # for it, and it's expensive as hell. Although, IIRC, it's not as expensive as the aluminum heat shield that runs most of the length of the driveshaft. I want to say that sucker was over 300 bucks.
Mine was drooping as well, hitting the DS about 6 inches or so aft of the guibo, and I too just cut it away.
It's premolded and held up by push pins and, I think, a couple screws. Once it loses it's "set", it's toast, nothing short of physical (the U brace mentioned earlier ) restraint is going to keep it in place.
part number: 51488119049 realoem lists it at : $337.12 so ur local dealer might me a bit more, or a bit cheaper depends how greedy the owner is....
part number 12:http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...47&hg=51&fg=70 so not worth it.
Last edited by shogun; 12-16-2015 at 05:12 AM.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
dito. id rather run without it than drilling holes in my car.
Well, I took it out. Shifting console gets pretty hot when the A/C isn't on. In fact the window switches were hot, almost to the point of pain, to the touch. It was also 100 degrees outside and I had been driving for 30 minutes w/ no A/C. Just windows down.
But I'm sure now that it does serve a valuable purpose
Excess heat + electronics? NOT a good thing
a switch and some wires are not going to fail in 100-120 degree heat...
Last edited by shogun; 12-16-2015 at 05:13 AM. Reason: thread clean-up
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
Do you have the foam padding under the shifter surround? (#12 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...14&hg=25&fg=10 )
and there is a rubber piece there too.
Do you still have those? I didn't notice any extra heat when I took my tunnel padding out.
Yup. I have a new foam insert, and retained the rubber "seal"
Last edited by shogun; 12-16-2015 at 05:14 AM. Reason: thread clean-up
^^ That's strange. I wonder if there is any way to insulate it without using the dumb tunnel piece
hmmm i was just about to do this as i noticed mine was sagging really bad when doing my 6 speed swap, but dont know if i want to do it with the increased heat in the center console area....guess i'll just leave it as I dont think it hurts anything laying on the driveshaft, if anything it just polishes it lol
I removed the saggy part at the rear of the tranny... I left most of it intact. I did notice that the console tray gets warmer.. It melts my icy drinks faster now.
My tranny area was always really hot with the ZF tranmission.
Of course I do. Always. With regards to this, It's electronics 101, Junior.
HEAT AND ELECTRONICS
- Heat is one of the biggest enemies of electronics, causing components to fail.
Heres a tutorial. You may want to read up..especially if you plan on removing any more materials that were engineered into your car for a specific reason.
http://www.hobbyprojects.com/general_theory/heat.html
Thanks Grandpa.
I didn't spend a year in an electrical equipment repair specialist school. And I certainly didn't spend the last 6 years of my life applying what I learned in the aforementioned school to fix highly sensitive military electrical equipment either...
Thanks for the laughs
Last edited by Volf; 08-10-2009 at 08:06 PM.
There are several products that you can replace this insulation with for cheap.
Last edited by shogun; 12-16-2015 at 05:21 AM. Reason: thread clean-up
Second skin is top knotch stuff and the owner is a real nice guy (anothony iirc)
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/produ...ic-coating.php
or
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/produ...Insulation.php
If your're looking for an aftermarket solution.....
I just used self tapping screws with large washers. Put in about 6-8, took about 15 minutes, and the console stays cool, and no rubbing. I am guessing it would take longer to trim this stuff and remove it then zip in a half-dozen self tapping screws.
Last edited by shogun; 12-16-2015 at 05:23 AM.
-----------------------------
E36 - M3 - DE Toy
-----------------------------
Bookmarks