Head Bolts: Afraid of Breaking One on the Last Torque

[fun2drive]

I recall taking the head bolts off. They were not that tightly torqued.
Applied the first 22 ft lb torque, everything feels normal
Applied the first 90 degree rotation, a lot of effort

I am concerned that I may break one of these bolts doing the final 90 degree torque.

I have done everything by the book but want advice before attempting the final torque tomorrow.

By the way the temp like 90 F so I really don't need to wait to do the last torque but wanted feedback if this is normal.

[Mad Dog 20/20]

The first 90 should not be THAT tough to do.

You did oil the bolts right? And you did clean-out (chase is best) the bolt holes prior to installing the bolts?

Remember, the bolts are designed to stretch . . . so it may feel a bit different that what you may be used to.

[fun2drive]

Yes to both, bolts are oiled, holes were cleaned and dryed to be spotless.
Using an 18" extension I would guess I am applying a 40 pound torque.
First 22 ft pounds was effortless, first 90 was hard enough to concern me doing the last 90 and yes I know a great deal about TTY bolts but feel very uncomfortable given the torque I am applying to get that 90 degrees.
Ugh!
I am curious if doing one right after the other may make the first 90 torque cause this feeling of more torque then I expected?

[E36BMW3series]

Wait. . . . you bought new bolts and aren't re-using the old ones right?

Maybe you don't have enough leverage. I just did this a couple weeks ago with a Snap-On AngleTech 1/2 drive wrench. Wrench is probably about 24" long and I had no problems at all.

IIRC they were all close to 100 ft/lb when tightened.

[Vonbimmer]

We just did the head on my brothers s50 and he felt the same way about the second 90 degree, but it turned out ok. Not sure if that's helpful

[ScotcH]

Yeah, it just feels like you'll break stuff! Now try it with an aluminum block, and see how fun THAT is Just do it ... it's spec, and unless there is a problem with the thread or hole, it'll be fine.

You should wait between torque stages btw ... about 30 min or so

[savage217]

Use a torque wrench you know is accurate and then an angle gauge to get the exact 90 degrees and their will be no reason to strip any threads. I actually managed to strip one I think because of the torque wrench I was using as I tested it compared to a few others. I then decided to use a angle gauge and a known accurate torque wrench.

[vertius]

I was nervous when I did my head bolts too. I did the first torque sequence at 22ft-lbs. I knew you had to wait a few minutes for the next sequence. However, I ended up going home for the night.

The next day, I was curious about the bolts and I rechecked them with the torque wrench. I went 22ft-lbs again and they all needed a good turn to get back to 22ft-lbs. They actually loosened quite a bit. I did some errands and did the 90 degree turn. The bolts under the rain tray sucked, because I had to use a shorter rachet for those two bolts. I couldn't use my longer rachet with the angle torque gauge. I had to "wing" it to make the 90 degree turn.

[Balthazarr]

If using a head extension on the torque wrench (offset), make sure you calculate the torque before using.

[99MPower]

just helped install a TT Stg2 kit this past weekend, and I was doing the second 90 on the ARP 2000 studs... yes it felt tough, but that's what's required, and we even broke a 11mm socket in the process (pretty common from what the turbo guys said)

don't worry about it like everyone else has said, and just make sure you are using the proper tools... I was using a 18"ish ratchet wrench with a angle gauge on it

[fun2drive]

Well I feel better now.
I can easily put enough torque on most any small bolt like this to snap it off so given it was not an issue with effort but just "hey this really feels awkward like too much torque".

You can imagine how much of a PITA it would be to snap one off if I could not get it out without pulling the head again.

I have given this 24 hours and will give it a go. I didn't think ARP's would be needed for a stock application.

Again thanks for the help. I don't mind exerting a 100 ft pounds of torque unless that snaps a bolt off.

I also got the VANOS rebuild kit and plan to just take my time doing that as well as cam timing. Not in a real hurry to get this done for a month of so as Florida and a convertible are not a good mix until it cools some.

[tedt]

My understanding is that aluminum bolts should NOT be lubricated prior to installing and torqueing, the threads should be dry, and if you do lubricate them, you will overtorque the bolt and quite possibly break it or strip the threads.

[Braymond141]

My understanding is that aluminum bolts should NOT be lubricated prior to installing and torqueing, the threads should be dry, and if you do lubricate them, you will overtorque the bolt and quite possibly break it or strip the threads.

Who the hell is using aluminum bolts. LOL.

[cashmancab]

I just did mine and the Ehrling kit had the oil can symbol with the can crossed out on the thread section. I took that as no oil on the threads. Plan on firing it up Sunday so I hope all is good. If it was meant to be oiled why is everyone so concerned to make sure the threads are dry before they start?

[digger]

Who the hell is using aluminum bolts. LOL.

bmw on the N52 lol

[Braymond141]

bmw on the N52 lol

As far as I am seeing, you're referring to the pack of 4 alu bolts for the external "head mounting", not the 14 steel bolts for the combustion chambers.

Either way, if the parts pictures are wrong, the S50 and S52 are not using alu bolts.