I'm wondering in particular how the steering shaft is going to fit in there.
You have 4 options for headers/steering shaft:
1. A 3-joint steering shaft should clear most headers easily
2. Turn headers around to dump forward
3. Use two passenger side headers
4. Redrill motor mounts, shift engine to passenger side, use 351w swap headers & Vorshlag steering shaft (Ebay DVD method)
Hows it coming along? I ran into the kit's website and was interested on how it would come out. Good luck man.
Ok the V8 kit showed up today good quality on the mounts and extremly detailed manual ..If you were considering this swap i higly recommend you buy the manual it is well worth the cost alone and is very very detailed (good job Matt).. I ordered the urethane mounts at a cost of $90 plus shipping from Ireland Engineering... when i get the bill ill update the running cost tally....here is the kit as it arrived..remember i opted for 1/4 inch aluminium motor mounts ..im the first test subject for these as i wanted to keep the weight down ..
Seems like those would be be gusseted, but then again, I can't figure out the orientation of them anyways. It almost looks tooooo simple, if there was such a thing.
ok, now im subscribed, i wasnt sure if this was going to happen
-Andrew Mensah
^^^ +1 Having owned a couple of fox body Mustangs, these mounts look a little flimsy compared with the stock ones. I'm especially concerned about the bolt holes elongating.
I'm not an engineer, though, so I'd appreciate an engineer's take on this one because I know that looks mean nothing when it comes to strength.
Last edited by dj06482; 07-16-2009 at 06:16 AM. Reason: grammar
I was really nervous about the mounts being made out of aluminum, but aussiebj intends to weld reinforcements/gussets.
You guys are right, they do need some sort of gusset/reinforcing. I've been really having trouble with these mounts, trying to keep the cost as low as possible by trying to design them without requiring any welding. I originally had some made out of 1/4 steel, but had problems with cracking along the bends (and they were very heavy).
I was thinking about something like this:
Matt, I would never used aluminum for a motor mount, it will crack no matter how many gussets you put on it. Also, you probably used 5052 alloy? It's pretty soft, or even 6061, that's pretty "springy".
I would go with the steel plate and weld along the brake, that's what I've done with bridge connections plates. You could put some lightning holes in the brackets, and I would put a stiffener or two in there. The hard part is done already...
I'm a welder by trade so I have a pretty good knowledge of what works, you're doing a great job on this project, just a few kinks to work out. The amount of time you're saving just using your mounts to locate the motor, is worth the price, even if I had to fab up my own brackets!!!
My project is a year off, but I will buy your mounts when I'm ready!!!
Chris R.
yeah, now that's what i'm talkin about!
i just E'd Matt but i figured i'd ask here too,
i realize that the 1.9 front springs will probably need upgrading for sure, and ~maybe~ some work on the convertible brace...
will this work in a 96 Z3?
I'm the second guy with Matt's mounts.
I'm starting with a JY 302 Long Block and should have it torn down and ready for the machine shop this week.
Stock Rebuild 302
Explorer Iron Heads
Explorer Intake
AFM Valvesprings
AFM Cam
12lb Aluminum Flywheel
Stage 2 Clutch
270-290rwhp
300-330rwtq
All for under $1200 . . .
Last edited by PJ325i; 07-19-2009 at 08:17 PM.
-=PJ
Strike Zero's Garage
==================================================
2006 SCR-SCCA Street Mod Champion
1982 Toyota Corolla
1988 Volvo 780
1993 BMW 318is: Gas Sipper
1993 BMW 325is => 350is: Track Rat
1994 BMW 530i + 5spd
1997 BMW 740i: Hwy Killah!!
1998 Honda VFR800FI: Gear Driven Cam Goodness
2000 Dodge Dakota: V8 + 5spd = Smokey Fun
2000 Lincoln LS V6 5spd
2004 Pontiac GTO - RIP
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
==================================================
"If not under warranty, live with it, or bend over and grab ankles."
Ok the project has met with an abrupt end..my chassis is badly bent...so i am selling my kit if anyone wants it .. i payed $312 for the kit $104 for the poly motor mounts from IE..$165 for the hydraulic clutch kit..Thats $581.00 total ill sell it for $500 shipped its a little discount but every bit helps...Sorry
FYI i am parting out the shell if you need any thing let me know
Ah dammit Aussie. Sorry about the chassis.
-=PJ
Strike Zero's Garage
==================================================
2006 SCR-SCCA Street Mod Champion
1982 Toyota Corolla
1988 Volvo 780
1993 BMW 318is: Gas Sipper
1993 BMW 325is => 350is: Track Rat
1994 BMW 530i + 5spd
1997 BMW 740i: Hwy Killah!!
1998 Honda VFR800FI: Gear Driven Cam Goodness
2000 Dodge Dakota: V8 + 5spd = Smokey Fun
2000 Lincoln LS V6 5spd
2004 Pontiac GTO - RIP
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
==================================================
"If not under warranty, live with it, or bend over and grab ankles."
me too i had just finished cleaning up and removing all the brackets in the engine bay and completly gutted the interior getting ready for the roll cage when i found the shoddy repair ....ill take a pic of it so youll see why i am parting the car out, looks like it was T boned and they just slapped a qtr on it... they did not even prep the used qtr they just painted over the shiny paint ....so sad
Last edited by aussiebj; 07-22-2009 at 12:39 AM.
Are you selling any of the 5.0 parts?
Are you selling the passenger front door panel off the 318?
yes $20
Ohhh damn, I was so looking forward to see your finished project. Oh well sorry it didn't work out for ya.
It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog.
Ugh, bummer. Sorta explains the shiny paint and $300 price tag.
I too was excited to see the results of this project. Definately post up the pic though.
What are your thoughts on these reinforced mounts? They have a channel welded to the bottom, creating a box to reduce bending and twisting. The channel is welded on the end near the engine to reduce/eliminate 'unbending'. And they are still slim enough to fit a 3" exhaust under the mount and above the subframe, which is required to use front-dump Mustang shorty headers and keep the stock steering shaft.
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