Front Control Arm Questions

[mipktb]

Alright guys, so a few days ago I started to notice a shimmy when decelerating from highway speeds. The more braking pressure applied, the worse it gets.

As of now I am not driving the car until the problem is fixed.

Now, the entire braking system was refreshed less than 11,000 miles ago, so I doubt it's the rotors.

So, as far as my knowledge goes, this narrows it down to the front control arm assembly. The car has also, in the last week or so, been exhibiting some of the other symptoms of FCAB issues; a little sloppy through hard corners, little slower steering response, etc., etc. I figured she just needed an alignment until the brake shimmy.

How can I tell if it's just the FCAB or the control arm/ball joint? Is it better to just replace the entire control arm/ball joint assembly or just change the bushings out?

KOPerformance sells OE bushings for $38.00, so I'm not that worried. But if it is the control arm, where is the best place to find a good price on it? I usually go OEM BMW, but are there any non-OE brands worth their weight? (I remember with my 540i thrust arms, Lemforder was great...)

I know it goes without being said, but this car is my pride and joy. Keeping her tip-top is my biggest priority. Any input would be awesome. As soon as I figure out if it's just the bushing of the entire assembly, she's going to the family Euro tech (I don't have a ball-joint popper ).

Thanks as always guys,

-M

[bmwpowere36m3]

That's a classic case of a worn FCAB. The determine if the LCA ball joints are worn, you squeeze them with a large set of channel pliers, any play/movement, then their worn. Also depending on your milage, it might be worthwhile to replace them anyways along with tie-rods, freshening up the front-end. Lemforder is the OE brand for LCA's.

[e21speed]

While these symptoms may be classic for the FCABs, it is worth noting that a sticking caliper will also produce these same symptoms slowing from highway speeds. IE. shimmy while braking for exit ramp, more pronounced with more pedal pressure. My car had the exact same symptoms. The shimmy was only noticed decelerating from high speeds. Check these by pulling the calipers for inspection. Look at the dust boots for tears/cracking. Push the caliper pistons back into the bore. A stuck piston or hard to move piston is what you are looking for. The solution is to rebuild or replace the problem caliper. Now would be a good time to bleed the brakes as well.

[mmyohe]

Have you checked the wheel bearing for play? Not saying that is the culprit, but just another idea of something to check for!

[3twenty3is]

Do not buy anything from KO Performance!

Tischer has the best deal around on LCA's and LCAB's packaged under their specials for the e36 at getbmwpwarts.com.

[Ron97M3]

That's a classic case of a worn FCAB. The determine if the LCA ball joints are worn, you squeeze them with a large set of channel pliers, any play/movement, then their worn. Also depending on your milage, it might be worthwhile to replace them anyways along with tie-rods, freshening up the front-end. Lemforder is the OE brand for LCA's.

Good post!

[esp42089]

I would strongly consider replacing your tierods too, my car did the same thing, so i did the shotgun thing and replaced LCABS LCA and tie rods. Problem is now gone.

Lemforder or bust! Don't get anything else if you want it to last and remain tight for any amount of time.

+1 on brake calipers, i checked mine over before changing out the front suspension stuff to make sure they weren't the culprit.

Does the car pull at all under braking? If so then brake calipers really need to be looked at. If the steering wheel just vibrates, but the car remains straight and true, then you may wanna check your wheel bearings.

[langley]

Do not buy anything from KO Performance!

Tischer has the best deal around on LCA's and LCAB's packaged under their specials for the e36 at getbmwpwarts.com.

I got a both control arms and bushings for something like 360 bucks. They say they do free shipping but I cant vouch for that because I'm local and just picked them up from the dealership.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...egoryID=103472

If you are going to do your control arms I would do my tie rods as well. I just did control arms and bushings 2 weeks ago and will be doing drop links, motor mounts, and tie rods very soon.

[510e36]

I just updated my whole front suspension my car would jerk to the right. bc everything was shot. poor maintenance from the last owner. you should always check your ball joints and busshings. they play a huge part in handling.