Lifter Tick Solution? - Perhaps...

[EvilTwin]

Alright, I've had some bad lifter tap. I've been running 10w-40 amsoil in my car. My engine is an m52 with ~170k miles now. Whenever I run my car hard I'll get lifter tap, and it's just been getting worse. From a few times running it hard, to just driving it on the highway at around 3k rpms. I decided to try a couple of things and try to solve this lifter tap situation without having to replace the lifters. I added an extra quart of oil to see if maybe I was just getting air bubbles in my lifters. It didn't solve the problem, so I put a bit of ATF in my engine, to help clean up some of that gunk. It helped a bit, but the lifter tap would still come back. People were telling me that I should run a thicker weight engine oil (15w-50). I just don't like the idea knowing that I would pretty much be running the same weight engine oil as desiel cars...

So today I ran an engine flush. I put Amsoil Engine Flush in my car. The directions say to drain some out, and fill whatever was drained out back with how much of the engine flush fluid you need. I didn't drain any out. The directions then state to run the car at high idle for about 20-30mins. I ran the car at 1500rpms for 20mins. Pulled the car back into the garage, jacked it up and drained my engine oil. The oil was VERY thin coming out since the flushing fluid was in it and because the engine oil was hot. I completely drained the oil, replaced the filter, and added 9 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40. Checked the dip stick, and went out for a drive.

I drove the car hard. Trying to drive it as hard as I could pretty much with the space that I had to work with. No lifter tick. yet. I'm going to be gone for the weekend so when I get back I will drive the car again and keep updating this post until I finally find a fix for my lifter tick without having to replace the lifters.

Thanks for letting me waste your time

[328 Power 04]

by the book you're supposed to be running 15w 40 or around that thickness.

[McKinneyWhiteM3]

You're welcome!

[Headnsouth]

www.auto-rx.com

[Meatball546]

Lol. That's not a waste of our time. Apparently, it's a valid solution to a problem many of us face. Thanks for the info!

[amcink]

How about the Royal Purple 5w 40 european specs - I'm trying this on my MB C230 kompressor and the E36

[NissanTTZ]

Try adding tranny fluid in the oil, to free up the lifters

[visible]

www.auto-rx.com

I finished my fist bottle. No improvement yet.

About to do second treatment in 2K or so miles.

[EvilTwin]

Try adding tranny fluid in the oil, to free up the lifters

Yah, ATF is a detergent. Just don't run ATF in there too long.

www.auto-rx.com

I remember hearing about that website. There was a reason I didn't want to do it. lol. But if worst comes to worst, that's what I will have to get to eventually.

by the book you're supposed to be running 15w 40 or around that thickness.

In all climates? I like being able to drive my car in the cold. I hate having to warm it up for as long as it needs to be.

[328 Power 04]

Here is page 126 of the E36 manual. Taken from pdf.

Make sure you see it full size.

[Meatball546]

In all climates? I like being able to drive my car in the cold. I hate having to warm it up for as long as it needs to be.

Well, considering that all engines run at the same temperature, yes. If you're on synthetic, 0W-40 is optimal.

[kgvickers]

. . . and added 9 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 . . .

Have you added a high capacity oil pan? I thought our engines held only 6.9 quarts . . .

Too much oil can be almost as bad as not enough. If the oil level is too high, the crankshaft whips air into it and the oil becomes frothy.

[Headnsouth]

I finished my fist bottle. No improvement yet.

About to do second treatment in 2K or so miles.

If you have over 150k miles it requires a second treatment. Just remember to use to recommended oil (cheap stuff) during the cleaning and rinse phase.

[EvilTwin]

Here is page 126 of the E36 manual. Taken from pdf.

Make sure you see it full size.

Nice! Thanks a bunch for that.

Well, considering that all engines run at the same temperature, yes. If you're on synthetic, 0W-40 is optimal.

I'm running a 10w-40 right now. Going to a 0 weight would be pointless for me at start up.

Have you added a high capacity oil pan? I thought our engines held only 6.9 quarts . . .

Too much oil can be almost as bad as not enough. If the oil level is too high, the crankshaft whips air into it and the oil becomes frothy.

I have an E34 oil pan. I'm not sure if that makes a difference in capacity. Ya, too much oil will not just cause the crank to pull in air, but will also cause bad gas mileage.

[Riick]

With my very 1st car, a clunker, we drained the old oil, and ran fresh 50-50 mix of oil & kerosene for 10-15 minutes at idle.
Very Very thin mixture, and though no "detergents", dissolves all sorts of buildup.
Drained that out, added fresh oil & new filter, ran that for 15 minutes - at idle.
Drained out for 3rd time, then new oil again, finished.
Amazing how much junk came out of that engine, and how well it ran afterward.

[kevinqjhps]

Have you added a high capacity oil pan? I thought our engines held only 6.9 quarts . . .

I was wondering the same thing!

[Headnsouth]

Using kerosene is an old and risky trick. I'm not saying it won't help but there are better, safer and much more effecient methods.
www.auto-rx.com

[Meatball546]

I'm running a 10w-40 right now. Going to a 0 weight would be pointless for me at start up.

It wouldn't be pointless. The 0W-40 is thinner than 10W-40 when it's cold it thins out to the same viscosity at operating temperature. The advantage is that it takes less time for the oil to thin out and it can begin lubricating properly sooner.

[328 Power 04]

I always have bad lifter tap after taking hard turns on Autocross tracks.. It will fix itself within 30 seconds or so. Unfortunately that is a VERY common issue with all 3 series without a dual pump, dry sump, or a baffled oil pan.

So was the lifter tick after taking hard turns? Cuz if it was, then that's fairly normal and common.

[exodus454]

My M50 has BAD lifter tick as well, and from what I can tell with a mechanic's stethoscope it's coming from 4-5 different lifters. I've tried experimenting with different oil weights, I tried a Liqui-Moly engine flush which helped a little, but it's still very much present. As the engine warms up it seems to get worse.

My engine has ~172kmi on it, so maybe it's just time to do 24 new lifters.. ugh, $420.

If anyone could find an easier solution than replacing them, i'd give it a try in a heartbeat.

[EvilTwin]

My M50 has BAD lifter tick as well, and from what I can tell with a mechanic's stethoscope it's coming from 4-5 different lifters. I've tried experimenting with different oil weights, I tried a Liqui-Moly engine flush which helped a little, but it's still very much present. As the engine warms up it seems to get worse.

My engine has ~172kmi on it, so maybe it's just time to do 24 new lifters.. ugh, $420.

If anyone could find an easier solution than replacing them, i'd give it a try in a heartbeat.

Have you read the entire post?

I always have bad lifter tap after taking hard turns on Autocross tracks.. It will fix itself within 30 seconds or so. Unfortunately that is a VERY common issue with all 3 series without a dual pump, dry sump, or a baffled oil pan.

So was the lifter tick after taking hard turns? Cuz if it was, then that's fairly normal and common.

That's a different issue than I have. I've tried adding an extra 1/2 to full quart. It doesn't do anything. Originally I thought that it was the reason because it first happened when I was on the track, but it just got worse and worse.

It wouldn't be pointless. The 0W-40 is thinner than 10W-40 when it's cold it thins out to the same viscosity at operating temperature. The advantage is that it takes less time for the oil to thin out and it can begin lubricating properly sooner.

I don't live in an area that is usually cold. Our winters consist of only a few weeks below freezing if anything lol.

With my very 1st car, a clunker, we drained the old oil, and ran fresh 50-50 mix of oil & kerosene for 10-15 minutes at idle.
Very Very thin mixture, and though no "detergents", dissolves all sorts of buildup.
Drained that out, added fresh oil & new filter, ran that for 15 minutes - at idle.
Drained out for 3rd time, then new oil again, finished.
Amazing how much junk came out of that engine, and how well it ran afterward.

The Amsoil smells like kerosene actually.

[Meatball546]

I always have bad lifter tap after taking hard turns on Autocross tracks.. It will fix itself within 30 seconds or so. Unfortunately that is a VERY common issue with all 3 series without a dual pump, dry sump, or a baffled oil pan.

So was the lifter tick after taking hard turns? Cuz if it was, then that's fairly normal and common.

That sounds like oil starvation. As long as you fill the oil up to the maximum oil level, this shouldn't be a problem, even while racing. Make sure your oil level is up.

[328 Power 04]

That sounds like oil starvation. As long as you fill the oil up to the maximum oil level, this shouldn't be a problem, even while racing. Make sure your oil level is up.

Of course it's oil starvation, every time I go autocrossing I put an extra quart in, but depending on how hard you take the car, you will get a bit of starvation. Its quite common, that's why turner and VAC motorsports have baffles for the oil pan, but even those cannot do the job as well. I was going to do it when I did my oil pan and oil pump nut, but I've read it wasn't too helpful.

[ublemaschine]

Have you added a high capacity oil pan? I thought our engines held only 6.9 quarts . . .

Too much oil can be almost as bad as not enough. If the oil level is too high, the crankshaft whips air into it and the oil becomes frothy.

+1 too much oil will cause the oil to get airrated and then compress in the lifters, which will cause a lifter tick. If you are running a stock oil pan and no add on oil cooler then you should put ~6.9 quarts in and see what happens. Too much oil is worse than being a little low.

[Kraut.Burner]

shoot. ever wondered if its just time to replace them?

They dont last forever, collapse, and just get so full of gunk that you've gotta take them out to clean them.
Look, i've got 166xxx miles on my car, and several of my lifters are ticking. Trust me, i've tried everything, from changing different oils, using detergents, and just running the piss out of it to see if maybe there was just a little crap gummed up inside..... Nothing, i get the same ticktickticktick every day. So, maybe its just time to get new ones. Our engines weren't designed to tick, at all. but i'll give credit to those that use a different oil, or clean out their engines, and are able to get rid of the tick.
But theres only so much you can do, after a while, its like putting a bandaid on a wound, it only covers the problem, doesn't fix it. sorry for being the bummer in this conversation, and i do wish the best of luck.
But these are just the joys of owning a BMW