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Thread: Intake Distribution Piece I6 (CCV/Vacuum) with Pics/Star Wars

  1. #1
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    Intake Distribution Piece I6 (CCV/Vacuum) with Pics/Star Wars

    Foreward
    Two months ago, while on the constant pursuit to improve my T-16 Speeder's I6 engine performance, I replaced the CCV and all associated hoses. Using the BMW 'Winter Version' (where the CCV and hoses are wrapped with insulation) parts, the parts department at my local BMW Cantina urged me to replace part numbers 5 and 6 here:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...79&hg=11&fg=40

    BMW refers to # 5, the plastic piece as the 'Distribution Piece' and # 6, it's O-rings. Great mystery revolves around this item and not wanting to spend the $65.00, I opted to ignore them during the CCV replacement.

    Lately, I had a sense of regret, penny wise, pound poor they say and I decided to replace these items. I would like to point out that on a scale of 1-10, this is a 2 in terms of difficulty. Also, # 5 comes with o-rings, so there is no reason to order six o-rings. I purchased six o-rings needlessly, I'll find a use for them someday.

    In the meantime, I suggest anyone with 50K miles to replace their CCV, associated hoses, use the BMW Winter Version and to also replace their Distribution Piece. Why?

    The Distribution Piece works in conjunction with your CCV; two CCV hoses attach to it! The Distribution Piece accepts some fumes as the vacuum system forces unburnt fuel, moisture and gases out of the crankcase. The six o-rings on the Distribution Piece dry out, become brittle, allowing space for a vacuum leak. It should also be noted that my Distribution Piece which is six years old and with 98K miles weighed twice as much as the replacement part...due to residue (aka unburnt fuel/moisture and gases) sitting within it.

    The job should take 30 minutes, cost is about $65.00 and the benefit is peace of mind knowing your vacuum system is tight as a drum. It makes all of the sense in the world to replace this part when you are replacing your CCV as all items are connected and accessible.

    I believe my idle is somewhat smoother, but I also notice the engine starts up more quickly. My engine ran like a top prior to this job as I just had my VANOS Seals, full coolant swap, VCG, plugs, air filter, fuel filter and oil replaced, but I sense the car starts up better. I also believe as I drive the car, my rpm's drop more slowly as car's speed decreases.
    ***************
    Here are some items needed:

    Flat head screwdriver (to remove engine screw caps and to assist in removing the CCV hoses from the Distribution Piece)
    10mm socket (for the two screws that hold down the engine cover)
    T25 Torx (for the 4 screws that hold the Distribution Piece in place)
    303 Aerospace Protectant (to moisten the o-rings)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  2. #2
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    Remove Engine Cover.
    Remove 4 Torx T-25 screws on Distribution Piece.
    Remove 2 hoses attached to Distribution Piece.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 06-11-2009 at 09:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  3. #3
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    Note the Oil/Mung/Crap left behind in the CCV hoses and the places where the hoses connect into the Distribution Piece. Muy Disgusto en Panama y Estados Unidos.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 06-11-2009 at 09:06 PM.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  4. #4
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    The o-rings on the original Distribution Piece are smaller and rock hard compared to the new ones. This is due to the massive heat they endure and time as they aged over six years.

    Old versus new.

    Moisten the new o-rings with just a little 303 Aerospace Protectant.

    Install is reverse...connect CCV hoses, install 4 Torx T-25 screws. Then install Engine Cover.*

    * = Before you do, just turn the key and make certain you don't have any vacuum leaks and the car runs smoothy etc.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 06-11-2009 at 09:10 PM.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  5. #5
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    Done!

    I do not lose any oil, burn any etc and yet I have to admit to being surprised by the amount of excess fumes these cars generate.

    After I finished the job, the car ran perfectly, slightly better than before the job. So excited to see the vacuum work, I removed the Oil Filler Cap while the car was running...the rpm's dropped and a Check Engine Light appeared. Hmm. My work was smooth, no issues, why the CEL?

    I drove to my friends shop to use him computer. I reckoned it could've been the 303 Aerospace Protectant getting into the intake? Perhaps it was simply opening the Oil Filler Cap? Was it shock to my engine that now it had perfect vacuum, a change in air pressure within the system? Am I a horrible wrench, focused more on Princess Leia's meow and not what's going on around me? What?

    The Snap-On SOLUS Computer offered P1083 and P1085...rich air mixture which would be a vacuum leak. We cleared the codes. I turned the key, drove around for an hour, the CEL never appeared again. I turned her off and on twenty times, no CEL. Still, I decided to pull it apart and do it again (took seven minutes). I could find no reason for a CEL, all seemed fine and I reassembled.

    The car starts up like a firecracker, runs smooth as glass and is doing fine.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 06-11-2009 at 09:19 PM.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  6. #6
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    That's interesting. In post #2, pic #2 your balancer looks like it connects somewhere. Mine is capped off from the factory.

  7. #7
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    Let me be the first to say, thanks for sharing! thanks for taking the time.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerfiver View Post
    So excited to see the vacuum work, I removed the Oil Filler Cap while the car was running...the rpm's dropped and a Check Engine Light appeared. Hmm. My work was smooth, no issues, why the CEL?

    The Snap-On SOLUS Computer offered P1083 and P1085...rich air mixture which would be a vacuum leak. We cleared the codes. I turned the key, drove around for an hour, the CEL never appeared again. I turned her off and on twenty times, no CEL. Still, I decided to pull it apart and do it again (took seven minutes). I could find no reason for a CEL, all seemed fine and I reassembled.
    Nice write up!

    How long was the cap off for? I have had mine off for 10-15 seconds to check the vacuum and the check engine light did not come on.

    I think you have a type: P1083 and P1085 are LEAN codes

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaxVQ View Post
    Nice write up!

    How long was the cap off for? I have had mine off for 10-15 seconds to check the vacuum and the check engine light did not come on.

    I think you have a type: P1083 and P1085 are LEAN codes
    Yes, I mean lean, not rich.

    Which was all very odd, seeing any CEL in my car with the P1083/P1085 Codes. When I remove my Oil Filler Cap there is fairly strong suction to be felt and audible change in idle. If I remove my dipstick while the car idles, same thing.

    I recall this thread last year:

    http://74.125.47.132/search?q=cache:...&ct=clnk&gl=us

    And Jim Levie setting straight what should occur when the oil filler cap is removed:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ighlight=P1083

    And looking at my original Intake Distribution and feeling it's overall weight, I have to believe a failed CCV allowed the fumes/moisture/waste in the wrong direction (instead of down to the CCV).

    Since I replaced the CCV several months ago and all hoses, I am curious to currently find the bit of oil in the horizontal hose that runs from the upper CCV hose to the back of the Distribution Piece.

    When I replaced the CCV/hoses, we didn't replace the dipstick tube/gasket (which BMW now recommends).

    I don't believe I have any intake boot leak, my fuel filter is 1 year old and my pre-cat O2 sensors are 2 years old. The car runs like a top. We cleared the CEL today and it hasn't returned.

    While I am happy to have replaced the Distribution Piece today, I will keep my eye on things over the next few weeks. The throttle body was removed during the CCV, but I didn't replace it's gasket...I believe the throttle body boot is fine (but will replace this week as it's cheap and easy) the MAF is fine (I'll clean it) and the gaskets at the ICV and DISA Valve are fine. So today's CEL was a mystery, but the car runs perfect...
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 06-12-2009 at 12:05 AM.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  10. #10
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    Thanks. This had been placed on my to do list.

  11. #11
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    Excelent write up ,,,on my todo list aswell..

  12. #12
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    Please add this thread to the DIY section!

    Thanks!
    Jason

  13. #13
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    I am at 96,000, while I dont have the distribution piece anymore, the CCV should definitely be done....now on my honeydo list.

    P.S.....Nice writeup :-)
    2002 530IS 5 speed, Sapphire Black/Sand, M-Tech sport package, premium package, ESS Twin Screw supercharger, Southbend high performance clutch, Performance Gearing 3.15 LSD.....1999 M3 Cosmos Black/Black, Active Autowerks intercooled supercharger, H&R suspension and a bunch of other stuff....

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by thetinpusher View Post
    I am at 96,000, while I dont have the distribution piece anymore, the CCV should definitely be done....now on my honeydo list.

    P.S.....Nice writeup :-)
    o ya, ess gives you an entirely new intake mani huh, gotta love ess and the twin screw.
    Quote Originally Posted by volodka1985 View Post
    I have a manual I6 e39 and it's a great car but sometimes when i need to accelerate fast and it doesn't( cause it can't) i just wanna slow down, pull over, open the hood and shoot the poor bastard in it's inline 6 heart....

  15. #15
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    On the subject of oil going through the system--I just replaced my dipstick guide with a new OEM part--still have oil going through. I can stop the oil from going through by using the vac port on the cvv being hooked to a vac port on the back of the intake--when I do this though--it opens the cvv to direct vacuum at full power into the crankcase. In this mode I don't use any oil---if Igo back to letting the ccv work as it is supposed to and I use oil--what a conundrum--Bmw says to replace the distribution unit--I didn't do that--just removed it and cleaned it out with brake cleaner---There is a new dipstick guide out now--but it's over 200 bucks while I just paid 40 for the OEM type that came with the car--I bet the new one has somekind of check valve on it--I'm thinking about doing away with this system and going to an oil catch can instead. This will do away with any problems that would arise from broken hoses around the cvv--and vac leaks as well.

  16. #16
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    Update: Car runs amazing. The moments I notice an improved change since replacing the Intake Distribution Piece are at start-up and when the automobile is coming to a stop (the rpms drop more gently below 2K).

    Also: I have given a lot of thought about the CCV system over these past three years. When I open the hood of a car, besides looking at the oil first and peeking inside the valve cover, one of the things I am drawn to are vacuum hoses. Are they dry, brittle and cracking?

    So when I bought my car I was intriqued by the CCV.

    Anyway, the little itty bit of oil/residue I saw in the old Intake Distribution Piece (what BMW also refers to as the Air Equalizer) and the hoses leading up/into it is this...nothing is 100%. The CCV Valve/System does it's BEST to remove fumes/moisture/waste. However, it cannot be 100% at this task so SOME fumes/moisture/waste WILL find it's way into the Intake Distribution Piece and the hoses leading up/into it.

    I am curious if E39'ers would go outside, remove their engine cover and simply remove the two vacuum hoses attached to the Air Intake Distribution Piece...I believe you'll find, even on the best-running automobile, some residue/waste/crap.

    In fact, we know this to be factual. Have you ever removed an intake plenum? Inside you'll find /crap/waste. When you remove your DISA Valve, you'll see a little. When you remove your ICV Valve, you find some.

    My Dad had a used 1981 Plymouth Trailduster. His was blue, looked like this:

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3269/...66222c2fd4.jpg

    I was watched him install a Rancho lift kit, suspension. However, the car was used and the previous owner ran crappy gas and never tuned the car. The main issue with the car was that it needed a new Holley carb and also vacuum leaks (and it was a b*tch locating all of them).

    Anyway, after that he had a FORD pickup. It had fuel injection and ran very poorly. We removed the Plenum Intake and it looked like a scene from Pluto; frozen carbon lava everywhere.

    So my thrust is this...don't freak out if you see oil residue/waste/crap in your Air Intake Distribution Piece or it's hoses. The CCV cannot remove everything!

    Poolman - I bought a new rubber boot intake. I also bought a new Throttle Body gasket (backorder) and oil dipstick gasket, number 12:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...87&hg=11&fg=10

    (it's a rubber o-ring). I even ordered a new oil dipstick!

    I even ordered # 15 and 17 here:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...79&hg=11&fg=40

    I will replace the Intake Manifold Gaskets next summer!

    I will replace the oil dipstick o-ring when my oil gets another 4K miles as it's nearly new.

    And I'd like to replace the fuel injectors' o-rings next summer, too.

    The car runs MINT. I suggest anyone with the I6 and over 75K miles to replace not just their CCV/hoses, but also this Air Intake Distribution Piece (aka Air Equalizer).
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 06-13-2009 at 12:11 PM.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  17. #17
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    Thumbs up

    Moved to the DIY section this thread should be.
    Nice work, Keith.

  18. #18
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    Bimmerfiver--from you inquiry from your email--I removed this distribution unit--instead of replacing it though--I cleaned it out with brake fluid and compressed air.
    It did weigh less afterwards and a lot of crude came out of it--then with new 0 rings the part was reinstalled. I'm not sure if a new one is needed or if the old one just needs to be cleaned--but in either case--new 0 rings will help keep the vacuum seal thats needed.

  19. #19
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    ccv change but car will not start own 2003 530i

    Hey bimmerfiver your write up was on point I change my ccv today. Instead of removing intake manifold I unscrew throttle body and moved it out of way so I can remove and replace ccv. I then connect all hoses and wires. Job went great. After complete task I went to start vehicle. car only crank over and wont start up. Any suggestion I check and recheck everything. Why i did not remove intake is because I did not have new intake gasket.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by routeg35 View Post
    Hey bimmerfiver your write up was on point I change my ccv today. Instead of removing intake manifold I unscrew throttle body and moved it out of way so I can remove and replace ccv. I then connect all hoses and wires. Job went great. After complete task I went to start vehicle. car only crank over and wont start up. Any suggestion I check and recheck everything. Why i did not remove intake is because I did not have new intake gasket.
    Human error. Re-check your work and possibly do-over. Make certain all cables, connections are tight, wires plugged together etc. You removed your throttle body? I'd consider this step in your process of deduction...
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  21. #21
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    Excellent diy!
    Deej


  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by routeg35 View Post
    Hey bimmerfiver your write up was on point I change my ccv today. Instead of removing intake manifold I unscrew throttle body and moved it out of way so I can remove and replace ccv. I then connect all hoses and wires. Job went great. After complete task I went to start vehicle. car only crank over and wont start up. Any suggestion I check and recheck everything. Why i did not remove intake is because I did not have new intake gasket.
    Did you ever resolve this and determine what went wrong? I'm having precisely the same issue after buttoning up my CCV replacement job. The car hiccups but will not start at all. I probably forgot to plug something in but I wish I had a starting point for when I go take everything apart again. Thanks in advance.
    BTW> This was a great DIY and very helpful.

  23. #23
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    Bimmerfiver. I took my screws off but it seems stuck on. How hard did you have to pull to get it off? Did you pull evenly at ends, one end first, front to back, or back to front? I just seems to be in there good after the screws (4) were taken out.

    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerfiver View Post
    The o-rings on the original Distribution Piece are smaller and rock hard compared to the new ones. This is due to the massive heat they endure and time as they aged over six years.

    Old versus new.

    Moisten the new o-rings with just a little 303 Aerospace Protectant.

    Install is reverse...connect CCV hoses, install 4 Torx T-25 screws. Then install Engine Cover.*

    * = Before you do, just turn the key and make certain you don't have any vacuum leaks and the car runs smoothy etc.

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