Locking and Key Fob Problems, GM3 location?

[RhoanW]

Hozy can you tell me if this is the part I should be looking to get a replacement for? The part number is 6906082-02. I found it on the rear, left pillar.

[Qsilver7]

The amp that also receives the FZV signal (for keyless entry) is #1 in the diagram below...it looks like you are looking at the FM amp that is in the left C-pillar (#2 in the diagram below). The FZV amp will either have 315 MHz or 433 MHz info on it because those are the 2 frequencies BMW uses for keyless entry.

You found the last 7 digits of that components part nbr (6 906 082). Since you've found the BMW part nbr (sometimes its 11 digits & sometimes its only the last 7 digits)...you can use the online part databases like this one below (copy & paste or type the part nbr into the part nbr search box)...and you will not only be able to find out what the part is...but you'll also have access to the diagram and part nbr index. Check it out...type the part nbr above into the part nbr search box at this link: http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/


For example...I already entered the number in the search...and this is what it is (you can click any of the other links...like under USAGE... to go further into the part database. If you click the "E39" link under USAGE...you will see a list of e39 models...pick yours and continue clicking your way over to the diagram & part nbr index: http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/65256906082/

You'll eventually wind up here...(note since I don't have the last 7 digits of your VIN...nor the build date of your car, nor the market for which it was built...I couldn't actually go to the correct diagram and part nbr index for your car...you'll have to click the info that is correct for your car to go to the right diagram/part nbr index):

(the part nbr you gave is #2 in the diagram below...if you click your way over to this diagram for your car...you will also get the part nbr index below the diagram that will tell you exactly what the part is that you are looking at)

[RhoanW]

Thanks Qsilver! Firstly it is a 2002 530i Ex-Japan. The last 7 digits of the chassis numbers are CK17580. I did pull the other pillar and found the part # 65258352499. I couldn't make out anything with a frequency but the module is totally plastic and shows signs of heat distortion. I hope this will be the problem and I can get the remote entry thing sorted out and move on to something else to fix!

[HoZy]

Qsilver7, What went faulty in mine was actually #2 in your diagram, The FZV section of the antenna amplifier.

Cheers
Mat

[Qsilver7]

Thanks Qsilver! Firstly it is a 2002 530i Ex-Japan. The last 7 digits of the chassis numbers are CK17580. I did pull the other pillar and found the part # 65258352499. I couldn't make out anything with a frequency but the module is totally plastic and shows signs of heat distortion. I hope this will be the problem and I can get the remote entry thing sorted out and move on to something else to fix!

Uh Oh! RhoanW...we may have a slight problem. Thanks for posting your VIN...because that allows one to pull up the part database specific for your car...and when you enter your car's VIN...the part nbr index you get for the diagram posted...lists the break down for item #1...and the part number you list (65 25 8 352 499) happens to be the amp/trap circuit component that DOES NOT have the "radio remote" feature...which means that module does not receive the RF signal.

And that refers back to your post & statement that you have the Infrared 2-button remote key. Did you try programming your key using the instructions that were posted previously for the 2-button IR key?

Installing an amp/trap circuit that has the ability to receive the RF (radio frequency signal) won't help you because your remote key (and your car) is set-up for INFRARED REMOTE.

For example...here's a link that shows the list of BMW part nbrs for item #1 (in the diagram) when you enter your car's VIN. There are 4 part nbrs listed for #1...(you indicate that the 1st number is the one you found mounted in your C-pillar)...and that is the one that doesn't have capabilities of receiving RF signals...and the other 3 nbrs listed below it are the RF (radio frequency) types that BMW uses for when the car is equipped with RF 3-button remotes: http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...A0352%C2%A0499

[RhoanW]

I did try the IR re-initialization procedure even to the point of watching some videos. I still don't get the confirmation. QSilver where is the receiver for the IR circuitry?

Considering my remote is IR and I have tried, to the best of my ability, all of the troubleshooting procedures so far; what can I do next?

QSilver I just re-read your procedure and at this point I am willing to start over quite frankly. Here I go from the basics:-
1. How do I know which is position 1, is that where the lights such as airbag come on in the cluster and the radio starts to play?

[rastayute]

keeping my eye on this thread. I'm also having this problem.

[Qsilver7]

1. How do I know which is position 1, is that where the lights such as airbag come on in the cluster and the radio starts to play?

Ignition position 0 is OFF (no explanation needed)

Ignition position 1 (aka KL R) is the first position past OFF. It is sometimes referred to as the RUN position (hence the "R" in KL R)...some accessories turn on but not all.

Ignition position 2 is the second position past OFF (aka KL 15) also referred to as the ACCESSORY position since ALL components are up and running.

Ignition position 3 is START (aka KL 50)...this is the position you turn the key to engage the starter.

This illustration below is from my e38 owners manual...but the ignition cylinder positions are the same:

QSilver where is the receiver for the IR circuitry?

Since we don't have the IR keyless entry system here in the US...I had to do a little digging around in the BMW WDS...and I found these wiring diagrams for the IR system. It appears that the interior rearview mirror receives the signal and sends that info to the GM (general module)...the wiring pin in the harness for the IR signal is #2: http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E39_PA22C.htm

Click this link...then click on the link at the far right for Infrared Remote Control info...and the acronym for the keyless entry system is FBZV: http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/e39...emote_control/

BTW...RhoanW...I was in a place that I could get "my BMW contact" to pull up the build sheet for your car (got really lucky that paths crossed)...not sure if you have this info or not...but you can see it attached below. And you indeed have the S875A Infrared Remote Control.

[Aussie528iT]

You might find this link useful.
http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/
You will have to do a bit of searching but it will give you the location of modules in both RH and LH drive cars as well as descriptions of some systems along with the wiring diagrams using Euro standards.

Edit: Qsilver7, looks like you beat me to it. There sometimes seems to be a time delay across the Pacific where IT is concerned.

RonR

[RhoanW]

Thanks Aussie and Qsilver I will be checking through this. I was checking on the motor in the front, passenger seat and found a document like the one your have up Qsilver and it had all those equipment and options your list mentions. I will update as soon as possible. Qsilver I think I keep going to key position 2 so I will try using the steering wheel lock release as a guide.

[Chbimmer]

Subscribed....I have issues with central locking, alarm, windows, trunk release, ect... I am down to a GM3 module, but I cant even read codes through the OBD2 because my tool isn't getting power from the port on the car. Any ideas would be great.

[overwerked1]

This worked for me once for about 24 hours, I tried to re-do the process and it hasn't worked again. :? help!

[Pam375]

[QUOTE=RhoanW;23702192]Thanks Aussie and Qsilver I will be checking through this. I was checking on the motor in the front, passenger seat and found a document like the one your have up Qsilver and it had all those equipment and options your list mentions. I will update as soon as possible. Qsilver I think I keep going to key position 2 so I will try using the steering wheel lock release as a guide.[/QUOTE I am having the exact problems but did not see this thread until after I already changed the Diversity antenna amplifier with no change. Can not access with infrared remote. Dealer wants
to change the rearview mirror do 800 dollars so I will be using my key to enter my car.

[Qsilver7]

Thanks Aussie and Qsilver I will be checking through this. I was checking on the motor in the front, passenger seat and found a document like the one your have up Qsilver and it had all those equipment and options your list mentions. I will update as soon as possible. Qsilver I think I keep going to key position 2 so I will try using the steering wheel lock release as a guide.

I am having the exact problems but did not see this thread until after I already changed the Diversity antenna amplifier with no change. Can not access with infrared remote. Dealer wants
to change the rearview mirror do 800 dollars so I will be using my key to enter my car.

Have you tried:

1. checking the operation of the red LED below the rear view mirror?
2. checking any/all fuses that may be related to remote keyless entry & the rear view mirror?
3. reinitializing your IR (infrared) remote(s)?

The reinitializing procedure is slightly different for the IR remote than it is for the RF (radio frequency) remotes that you see posted on the forums that are USA based. We've had RF keyless entry systems here since around 1994-up.

[Pam375]

Have you tried:

1. checking the operation of the red LED below the rear view mirror?
2. checking any/all fuses that may be related to remote keyless entry & the rear view mirror?
3. reinitializing your IR (infrared) remote(s)?

The reinitializing procedure is slightly different for the IR remote than it is for the RF (radio frequency) remotes that you see posted on the forums that are USA based. We've had RF keyless entry systems here since around 1994-up.

Qsilver7 thanks for responding: I have checked the fuses, but I did not know about the no more than 15 cm distance limit from the mirror.
I also noticed that when the dealers tried to reprogram the had the key out side the 15 cm. I also noticed that if I leave the door open and the key is in the ignition there is no beeping. Not sure if that is a related problem.

[Pam375]

Can I just change from IR to RF by system upgrade using factory parts?

[andyburm]

Can I just change from IR to RF by system upgrade using factory parts?

I am also investigating that at the moment...let me know if you find anything out.

The key initialization procedure for my IR keyfob goes like this:

1) turn key to position 2 (ignition), then switch off within 5 sec
2) pull out key and hold down the unlock button while tapping the roundel/BMW button 3 times, then release all buttons
3) LED should start flashing slowly
4) While flashing hold key close to interior mirror (pointed at clown nose) within a distance of about 6-10 inches
5) press the unlock button
6) lock will engage and immediately released again - you're done!

[jl01152]

Can I just change from IR to RF by system upgrade using factory parts?

Reviving an old thread here but I'm also interested in doing the IR to RF retrofit on my e38. Did you ever find any info on this?

[Sroor9001]

Sorry for old thread
but my car centerlock acting weired
when press lock it's unlock by itself
when lock manuelly it's unlocked by itself
what is the solution to solve this problem my car is 523 2001 auto Europe version
can I change center lock to after market edition and use same wires and it'll lock cause I think problem is in the brain
of the module

[Sroor9001]

Still it's unlocked the car is not entering sleep mode after 16 minute until I disconnect window door module switch on driver side I mean the power so now no centerlock also no window able to be used but car is not draining
Great to pin point the fault but I've replaced the window door switch and it's not solving checked all fuses no problem
Changed door lock and actuater and still not working mean same weired issue when I lock by key mechanical it's unlocked again until maximum 10-12 times then it's locked and it's not going to sleep mode
So I have to disconnect window door switch so it can go to sleep
Will. This be solved by gm3
I've ordered that but still waiting for it to arrive
Any suggestion will be appreciated want to run car normally without any issue

- - - Updated - - -

I've just removed fuse number 12 and everything is fine when I lock it's not unlock it's normal
But this is immobilizer mean the car will not work if I removed it is there a way I can connect a relay in such a way that when I need it it'll work mean when car is switched on only like the fuel pump ??

[RhoanW]

I've just removed fuse number 12 and everything is fine when I lock it's not unlock it's normal
But this is immobilizer mean the car will not work if I removed it is there a way I can connect a relay in such a way that when I need it it'll work mean when car is switched on only like the fuel pump ??[/QUOTE]


I was reading recently that it is actually possible and has been done that which is converting from IR to RF. It however is a long process and requires all the parts and also some modifications to be done.

With my car and had forgotten about trying to get it to work anymore, however over the Christmas holidays my brother and I tried getting remote unlocking to work on his 3 series ( has the RF setup) and we finally got it! It turned out that a fuse for the immobilizer was missing and after putting it in the re-initialization immediately worked. It also seemed like the programming was being done but just couldn't function. The reason for saying that is that we did two keys before discovering the missing fuse. After doing one key with the fuse that key worked. Then we wondered about the other key and tried it with initializing it again and it worked; my theory is therefore the procedure was being completed but the mechanism to acknowledge the key remote was not working due to the missing fuse.

I will now be using the circuit diagram supplied by Aussie and QSilver to check the parts one at a time. I went and checked every single fuse in my car and none seem to be missing or damaged. I suspect a open circuit somewhere though. I really don't believe the IR module in the rearview mirror is faulty but I think there is some break down in the communication circuitry. Rastayute any update with your car?

[DanyB1904]

Has anyone been able to solve the problem of the door locks intermittently not working? I have this problem with my e39 and having trouble finding a actual solution online.

[rswapp]

Still no joy! I just remembered that the previous owner told me he had carried it to the dealership and they couldn't get it to work either. I guess Hozy's solution might work.

Hozy can you tell me which side of the pillar I should look for the antenna ampilifier?

Antenna amp is on the passenger rear pillar

With regards to the GMIII problems in the original thread.

I was experiencing the same problem that everyone is complaining about in the original thread and everyone and I mean everyone is missing what feeds the GMIII.
Check the fuses in the glove box in particular F6, F11 and F27.
You may find F27 has opened, this is the high current feed to the GMIII as well as F11.
My case all fuses in the trunk or boot were good.
Central locking didn't function with the key remote only when the key was inserted in the door or trunk lock.
Remote didn't work, rear windows didn't function, interior trunk release didn't work.
The front windows functioned and front door locks functioned.
The Front windows and door locks are not controlled by the GMIII.
The rear windows, rear door locks, fuel door, Alarm, Remote Central Locking, trunk locks are controlled by the GMIII.
If the fuse continues to open I would disconnect all consumables to the GM3, rear window motors, rear door lock motors, trunk lock motor, fuel door motor.
Replace the fuse and systematically start inserting the consumables.
Seeing that in this process you will be removing the rear door cards you will definitely want to reseal the vapor barrier otherwise you will have rear floor boards filling up with water.

Seeing that this is a 30amp fuse, you won't be able to use a meter to check the current because most meters at most are only rated at 10amps.
You can how ever with a bit of work put a 10ohm 100W resistor in series with the fuse and put a scope across the resistor and measure the voltage drop across the resistor.
A little ohms law will tell you what the current is, E/IR.
As you start to plug in various loads and operate the windows or door locks watch the voltage drop across the resistor.
If you get one that is drawing excessive current you've most likely found your culprit.
Our case was a faulty window regulator, and someone kept trying to lower the window stalling the motor.