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Thread: Locking and Key Fob Problems, GM3 location?

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Locking and Key Fob Problems, GM3 location?

    I'm having some trouble with both of the keys coded to my vehicle.

    Originally, the first key was only working intermittently, it was able to operate the locking mechanisms on the door and the trunk sporadically. With or without the key in the ignition, if the remote unlock feature failed to work, the center console door control also failed to work. I found this unusual but I thought I may just as well try re-initializing the key anyway. Upon re-initializing the key was able to work for two cycles and failed once more. I once again paired the key and it worked for a single cycle and then failed. It will no longer re-initialize with the vehicle and neither will the second key. Both keys are the later diamond shaped model.

    All fuses related to the locking module have been checked, I believe they are 6,27,29, and 53 if I remember correctly. I haven't located the relays yet but I believe they are mounted on the control module itself(General Module 3 or Basic Module 3)

    I believe the trouble to be with GM3 (responsible for Central Locking) but I don't have a diagram with its location. My nearest guess is somewhere behind the glovebox or dash but I want some direction before I start breaking it down. Any other suggestions that would result in a failure of the central locking system? I do not believe this is an EWS problem even though some other posts seem to point in that direction. If the EWS was the culprit then ignition would not be possible. All the functions of the vehicle are normal except for the central locking in the console and the remote fobs. I appreciate any responses and hope I have provided sufficient information related to my problem.

    -Jack

  2. #2
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    Did you just check fuse #53 or did you replace it?

  3. #3
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    I checked it for continuity and ran a test light. I did not replace it.

  4. #4
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    BTW, welcome to the forums.

    Usually that fuse is the culprit with these symptoms.

  5. #5
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    When locked is your fuel door also locked? If not could be problem with the fuel door lock actuator.

    HTH

    John
    2001 540i/6 - 144k

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfmjr442 View Post
    When locked is your fuel door also locked? If not could be problem with the fuel door lock actuator.

    HTH

    John
    Ditto...that's what I was going to ask.

    Try locking the car with the key (manually) in the driver's door lock since the remote functions aren't working...then walk around to the fuel filler door and try to open it.

    If it OPENS...the the problem is your fuel filler door actuator. If its locked...UH OH!

    Don't try this using the central lock/unlock button on the center console...that button is designed NOT to lock the fuel filler door...this is so the driver can remain safely within the confines of the secure cabin, while a gas jockey can still have access to refuel the car.

    BTW...I believe the GM is located with the electronic components on the cabin side of the firewall behind the glovebox.
    Last edited by Qsilver7; 06-10-2009 at 03:53 PM.
    (if my grammar, spelling, or sentence structure is screwed up....don't blame me...it's my dang bluetooth keyboard...I try to catch & correct the mistakes...but I may not catch all of them.)

    Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
    1997 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date <<~>> 2006 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date
    (SOLD)
    1999 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 1995 525iT (Alpine White)
    1991 735iL (Schwarz) <<~>> 1985 325e (Bronzit)

  7. #7
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    The fuel filler door actuator housing has been broken out for some time. The actuator is visible and I am able to see it actuate but it is not mounted properly to catch the latch on the door. How would the fuel filler door functionality effect the remotes?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eire View Post
    ...How would the fuel filler door functionality effect the remotes?
    Disconnect the fuel filler door actuator's electrical connection...then try locking/unlocking your car with the keyless entry buttons on the key. Hopefully you'll see how it affects it...you may not "understand" how...but you may "see" how....especially if things start working correctly
    Last edited by Qsilver7; 06-10-2009 at 05:49 PM.
    (if my grammar, spelling, or sentence structure is screwed up....don't blame me...it's my dang bluetooth keyboard...I try to catch & correct the mistakes...but I may not catch all of them.)

    Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
    1997 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date <<~>> 2006 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date
    (SOLD)
    1999 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 1995 525iT (Alpine White)
    1991 735iL (Schwarz) <<~>> 1985 325e (Bronzit)

  9. #9
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    I appreciate the responses. I re-sleeved the actuator and it's now properly mounted. The electrical connector is disconnected. I have tested it an am still having trouble. Any other guesses? Also, fuse #53 has been replaced with another OEM one.

  10. #10
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    If you are able to lock and unlock the car through the doors lock and when you open the car and the interior lights don't come on, then it's likely to be the GM3 module... I had this problem

    The GM3 module is located under the glovebox, don't know if you may be as lucky, but I removed my GM3 module, opened it up and cleaned it, left it overnight unplugged and when I reconnected it everything was working again.

  11. #11
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    Allow me to provide a little more detail.

    The remote is certainly initialized with the car and upon disconnecting the electrical connection to the fuel door actuator, I was able to lock and unlock the car a few times. If you put the key back into the ignition and and step outside of the car, close all doors, then it will work again for 4 or 5 cycles, if you walk over to the fuel door and open it after mating the key in the ignition and stepping out again, then you will not have the 4-5 cycles of locking. Why does opening the fuel door interrupt it? And why won't the remote function for more than four or five cycles afterward?

    I don't know if the connection is time sensitive or cycle dependent before it fails to operate.

    I played with this for about half and hour, gathering all the information i could get and now the key will not work regardless(I am not getting the 4-5 cycles I was getting before). Are there any other possible culprits other than the GM3 module?

    As far as the lighting goes LuisGT, the cabin lights do come on after opening the door.
    Qsilver, any ideas?

  12. #12
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    Eire, at this point I can only recommend that you surrender and take it to either a BMW dealer or an Indy that has BMW diagnostic equipment.

    The one thing about BMW DIS is that it can communicate with all the components that are connected on the various communication buses (CAN, Diagnostic, I, K, M, P, etc). By hooking the car up...you should be able to retrieve the fault code(s) for whatever component is causing the problem. At least you'll know what area to concentrate your efforts...and you still may be able to fix it yourself.

    Good luck...sorry that none of our suggestions were able to help you get to the bottom of the situation.

    (if my grammar, spelling, or sentence structure is screwed up....don't blame me...it's my dang bluetooth keyboard...I try to catch & correct the mistakes...but I may not catch all of them.)

    Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
    1997 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date <<~>> 2006 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date
    (SOLD)
    1999 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 1995 525iT (Alpine White)
    1991 735iL (Schwarz) <<~>> 1985 325e (Bronzit)

  13. #13
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    Don't be so hard on yourself, I'm impressed. Where are you getting these diagrams from? I know Alldata and TIS don't have them. I appreciate all the help you and the others have provided.

    I've already ordered a GMIII module, I was able to get one for $90 so I figure it's worth a shot. I can resell it if need be. My dealer charges $120 for the scan tool hookup.
    Last edited by Eire; 06-11-2009 at 09:01 PM.

  14. #14
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    Bump, Any updates?
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ganesht View Post
    Bump, Any updates?
    No updates yet, but...
    Quote Originally Posted by Eire View Post
    I'm impressed. Where are you getting these diagrams from?.
    And in answer to that question...
    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    My 3 cardomain sites (which are open to the public) and the 542 images uploaded to my Bimmerboard account are were most of the images I post are stored....in fact, you will usually see Bimmerboard.com or CarDomain.com tags in just about everything I post...unless I go to ebay or use an image posted by someone else.

    I have 21 pages of images at this site that I use to answer questions with (especially Page 6, Page 12, and Page 16): http://www.cardomain.com/ride/433594

    I have 9 pages of images at this site that I use to answer questions with (mostly Page 2): http://www.cardomain.com/ride/739005

    I have 2 pages of images at this site that I use to answer questions with: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3134093
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 07-29-2009 at 03:15 AM.

  16. #16
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    Ok, I bookmarked those three pages...

    Didn't know Qsilver dedicated his life to answering BMW related questions

  17. #17
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    update on this?

    I"m have the same problems and was wondering if a new module fixed the problem

  18. #18
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    If central locking is not working from the console button it isn't the fuel door actuator or fuse #53 (which is the one the actuator blows). It is almost certainly GM III.
    chiefwej 2003 540i ///m-tech 6-speed Black Sapphire Metallic w/gray
    See: My REGISTRY PICTURES
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  19. #19
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    Exclamation Similar Proble to Eire

    Did you ever get this problem fixed, mine is similar but my central lock button in the center console works all the time and the cabin lights come on. The keys have never worked though. I have tried disconnecting the cable to the fuel door actuator and re-programming the keys but I just don't get the confirmation of the key being programmed. Other than the GM 3 module, could the receiver be damaged and can it be replaced?

  20. #20
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    Okay...from the info you've given us...we know that these things work or you've looked at:
    1. central unlock button on console works
    2. disconnected fuel filler door actuator


    What we don't know and info not given is:
    1. did you check the central locking system fuse in the trunk and is it blown or working properly?
    2. does the fuel filler door lock when you lock the car manually from the driver's door?
    3. what instructions or steps did you perform when you tried to initialize your keys (there's lots of incorrect instructions out there)...and did you follow the correct instructions to the "T" (no skipping, fudging, combining steps)?


    For example, to reinitialize the remote keys...you MUST have both or all of them you have with you during the same programming session.

    1. You MUST close all doors
    2. You MUST only insert the 1st key into the ignition...all other remotes you start programming on STEP3
    3. You MUST only turn the ignition to POSITION 1...if you turn it to position 2 or 3 or start the car....programming will fail
    4. You MUST remove the 1st key between STEPS 2 & 3
    5. You MUST start programming any additional keys within 30 seconds of confirmation of the previous key (and DO NOT insert it into the ignition)


    TIP: KL R = ignition position 1

    (if my grammar, spelling, or sentence structure is screwed up....don't blame me...it's my dang bluetooth keyboard...I try to catch & correct the mistakes...but I may not catch all of them.)

    Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
    1997 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date <<~>> 2006 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date
    (SOLD)
    1999 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 1995 525iT (Alpine White)
    1991 735iL (Schwarz) <<~>> 1985 325e (Bronzit)

  21. #21
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    I have a similar problem to RhoanW, My problem has come down to the antenna amplifier on the rear pillar behind the trim. The FZV section is faulty. I tested it with a friends one an my remote started working.

    So my suggestion, find the frequency of yours then purchase one off ebay for $20 an replace it.

    Cheers
    Mat

    Where I found my info:
    http://www.bmwgm5.com/FZV_Antenna_Amp.htm
    Quote Originally Posted by hakhawk
    I know first hand that owning a bmw isnt what made hozy the way he is, its just his charm
    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder
    HoZY is good guy and has proven it many times by being a longtime participant in this community.


  22. #22
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    Just a friendly FYI: All of the FZV receivers in the USA are 315 MHz...433MHz is the other frequency but that is used in Europe and some other BMW markets/regions outside of the USA.
    (if my grammar, spelling, or sentence structure is screwed up....don't blame me...it's my dang bluetooth keyboard...I try to catch & correct the mistakes...but I may not catch all of them.)

    Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
    1997 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date <<~>> 2006 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date
    (SOLD)
    1999 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 1995 525iT (Alpine White)
    1991 735iL (Schwarz) <<~>> 1985 325e (Bronzit)

  23. #23
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    Thanks for the response QSilver. I did check the fuse and it is fully functional. I have tried all instructions I have seen online and just watched a video and realized that I probably released the unlock button too quickly; will try again in a few minutes. My car is a Japanese import so it uses IR (has only two buttons). The fuels filter closes with the key buy I removed the power to the actuator just in case.

    Hozy, what is the exact name of that module or do I have to pull mine and confirm what is there?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RhoanW View Post
    ....My car is a Japanese import so it uses IR (has only two buttons).
    Ah...now that's the kind of information we need. All along we've been "shooting in the dark" assuming that you had a RF (radio frequency) system.

    Below are the instructions for programming the IR (2-button) remote. In the future...always try to provide enough pertinent details so that you don't get incorrect information.

    (if my grammar, spelling, or sentence structure is screwed up....don't blame me...it's my dang bluetooth keyboard...I try to catch & correct the mistakes...but I may not catch all of them.)

    Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
    1997 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date <<~>> 2006 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date
    (SOLD)
    1999 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 1995 525iT (Alpine White)
    1991 735iL (Schwarz) <<~>> 1985 325e (Bronzit)

  25. #25
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    Question

    Still no joy! I just remembered that the previous owner told me he had carried it to the dealership and they couldn't get it to work either. I guess Hozy's solution might work.

    Hozy can you tell me which side of the pillar I should look for the antenna ampilifier?
    Last edited by RhoanW; 02-04-2012 at 08:47 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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