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Thread: Transmission Swap Thread

  1. #151
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    5,356
    My Cars
    1995 325i
    Suspension settled. Looks pretty good, I'm quite happy with it. I gotta say though, I can see why people try and make their cars as low as possible....they look so damn good slammed.

    Transmission runs perfectly, I absolutely LOVE the car now. I've finally gotten the car to the EXACT point that I've wanted it ever since I got it (minus the headliner).

    On a side note, my ABS light came on today. Brake fluid is fine, all ABS fuses are fine, I don't know how to test the relays, my battery is only pushing about 7 amps, and I have to check the wheels speed sensors tomorrow. Anyone have any other ideas? I would really hate to have to replace the ABS module. Does anyone know how to get to Fuse #47 on a '95 E36? The Bentley says it's in the splice panel under the left dash, but I can't get the splice panel to detach from the car, so I have no idea how to find the fuse.


  2. #152
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    9
    My Cars
    BMW 3251
    Do you still have this? I would be interested in it. Please email me at mwill0416@comcast.net

  3. #153
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    5,356
    My Cars
    1995 325i
    Bump.
    Last edited by espguitarist; 08-31-2009 at 08:42 PM.


  4. #154
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    fgjh
    Posts
    126
    My Cars
    none.
    Quote Originally Posted by espguitarist View Post
    Alright so it turns out that E36s with a production date of 1990 actually had different output flanges. I talked to a parts manager about it and he looked it up. I don't recall 100%, but I'm pretty sure the car I got this stuff from was a 1992, which makes perfect sense. SO...don't get your swap kit from a '92.

    I worked on the wiring today...it's REALLY easy. I was really intimidated by the wiring since I have zero experience with anything like that, but I've got it all figured out and I'll have it done tomorrow. The only reason I didn't finish is because I ran out of connectors.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Here we go with the wiring.

    Day 8-9 - A few hours.
    Work done: Wiring!

    So basically the wiring is really really easy for this. If you know how to use wire strippers/cutters, a lighter, and understand a simple electrical circuit, that's all you need.

    On a side note, to remove and install the brake switches you have to pull the plunger out about half an inch and then pull the red sleeve up so that the tabs can be pushed in to remove the switch. It took me some time to figure this out as I've never seen anything like that before.

    The reverse lights are easy and a good DIY can be found on E36-tech.com, there's no need for me to post a reverse lights DIY. The reverse lights are wired in through pins 2 and 3 on the AT shifter plug.

    The clutch switch - for those who want the car to start only when the clutch is engaged and want cruise control to deactivate with the clutch.

    Yes, you can short pins 5 and 7 from the AT shifter plug and clip pin 25 on the cruise control module and be done with it. This DIY is for those who want their car to be closer to stock form.

    1) Start by clipping pins 5 and 7 from the AT shifter plug. It's the green/grey wire and the brown/black wire. Set those aside.

    2) Get the brake switch from your old pedal assembly and use a dremel to sand down the little tab that sticks out from the side. By doing this, the switch will now fit into the clutch switch hole on the pedal switch bracket.

    3) Connect pins 1 and 2 of the brake switch to one wire each. I used 16 gauge white wire that I found at autozone. I'm not a wiring expert so the best way I could figure out how to do this was to use the old plug from the clutch switch I got from the new pedal assembly. I sanded down a corner on that plug and cut off one of the clips so that it would fit down into the brake switch.

    4) I then spliced the two wires coming out of the clutch plug into the two 16 gauge white wires. To splice them together I used weatherproof heatshrinking butt connectors from Autozone. You just put the end of the wire into the connector and then put a lighter to it and it shrinks around the wire.



    5) You now have your clutch switch ready to be installed. I wrapped mine in electrical tape to make it less conspicuous and for extra insulation.

    6) Snap the brake switch into the clutch switch hole on the pedal bracket.



    7) I ran the wire to the right and zip-tied it to another set of wires to keep it up and out of the way.





    8) There's a slot that a bunch of wires go through on the side of the center console that I fed the wires through to get them to the shifter area.



    9) With my white wires in place I stripped the green/grey and brown/black wires from pins 5 and 7 and prepared them to be connected to the white wires.


    10) I clipped the extra white wire, stripped them and then used the red butt connectors to connect them to the ignition wires. I also wrapped these connections in black tape as well, just for safety.

    And that's it. Simple as pie. This is for OBD1 cars of course, I don't know how to do it otherwise. It may or may not be the same.

    Once you have your ignition wired up you can push the clutch in and start up your car. This should also allow cruise control to work and have it cancel out when the clutch is pushed in, but I'm not sure because the car still doesn't have a diff. We'll find out soon enough though.

    .

    When you say ignition wired up. Do you mean what was just done in the previous steps to have a clutch switch, or is there something that has to be rewired to the ignition? If so can you tell me how?

  5. #155
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    5,356
    My Cars
    1995 325i
    Quote Originally Posted by smokedbmw View Post
    When you say ignition wired up. Do you mean what was just done in the previous steps to have a clutch switch, or is there something that has to be rewired to the ignition? If so can you tell me how?
    Nope, I was just refering to the clutch switch. The ignition wires are what's going to the clutch switch.


  6. #156
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    San Gabriel, CA
    Posts
    86
    My Cars
    2003 BMW M3
    how did you remove the two tops bolts on the transmisson

  7. #157
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Atlanta
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    5,356
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    1995 325i
    Quote Originally Posted by pops047 View Post
    how did you remove the two tops bolts on the transmisson
    Look at post #26 (top of page 3) in this thread.

    Basically, once you've got the transmission crossmember unbolted, the whole transmission and engine will tilt backwards. I used a 3ft 3/8 drive extension with a breaker bar, and the proper inverted torx socket on the end to break them free. Just get down behind the transmission (behind the flex disc) and go up over the top of it. You can tilt the engine far enough back to see up to where they are located, though it may take an extra set of hands to help you get it onto the bolts.


  8. #158
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    San Gabriel, CA
    Posts
    86
    My Cars
    2003 BMW M3
    i got the bolts know how does the transmisson come out it seems to be stuck can i hit from were i took out the torque converter bolts,

  9. #159
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    5,356
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    1995 325i
    Quote Originally Posted by pops047 View Post
    i got the bolts know how does the transmisson come out it seems to be stuck can i hit from were i took out the torque converter bolts,
    Once you've got the three torque converter bolts out, you have to push the torque converter back into the bell housing. I don't remember exactly how it was attached, but basically the torque converter is wedged into the flywheel, so you have to push it away from the flywheel in order to completely detach the transmission from the engine. Use a long ass pry bar.


  10. #160
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    San Gabriel, CA
    Posts
    86
    My Cars
    2003 BMW M3
    why does my clutch pedal snap back and the gets stuck then i have to pull it in order to get back to its normal position

  11. #161
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    1,418
    My Cars
    '95 Hardbody
    Quote Originally Posted by pops047 View Post
    why does my clutch pedal snap back and the gets stuck then i have to pull it in order to get back to its normal position
    You have not bled it properly.

  12. #162
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    6,242
    My Cars
    e28, e30, e36
    to mate the zf tranny to the m50 motor. which trans to motor bolts did you use?
    Realoem lists different bolts for the m3 verses the 325i.
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=23&fg=10

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=23&fg=10

    thanks

  13. #163
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    washington dc
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    8,679
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    Avus Cosmos Calypso!
    bumping this thread. Looking for the info on e36-tech dot com but that site is down indefinitely. Can anyone fill in the gaps of knowledge on wiring the reverse lights, clutch/brake switch, interlock cable, and what to do with the auto trans computer? I've read that the auto trans computer manages the abs and asc. Thanks!

  14. #164
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Mississauga, ON, Canada
    Posts
    306
    My Cars
    1994 Alpina B3 3.0
    @scooper - The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread at the top of this section covers those topics:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...on-Swap-Thread

    Unfortunately it's 900 pages long so I'd suggest you start at the end and read backwards.

  15. #165
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    washington dc
    Posts
    8,679
    My Cars
    Avus Cosmos Calypso!
    Hi,

    I'm doing a s50 manual swap into a 325i auto. If I pull the battery when the trans is in PARK then switch to 1st gear to remove the assembly, will the interlock cable prevent the car from starting after the swap?

    Separately, if I use the s50 engine harness and wires for the reverse light switch (plug in as normal), will the reverse lights work without splicing pins 2 and 3 from the black auto selector connector?

    Lastly, what's the correct method to remove the kick-down switch beneath the gas pedal? There is a wire attached and I don't want to break it!

    I think the official auto to manual swap thread is 102 pages or so. I've read the majority of it but I will go through the rest of it...

    Thanks!
    Last edited by scooper; 11-12-2013 at 08:30 PM.

  16. #166
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    31,073
    My Cars
    2004 330 vert 2004 X5
    Answered ^^^^ this in the swap thread

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