Originally Posted by
espguitarist
Alright so it turns out that E36s with a production date of 1990 actually had different output flanges. I talked to a parts manager about it and he looked it up. I don't recall 100%, but I'm pretty sure the car I got this stuff from was a 1992, which makes perfect sense. SO...don't get your swap kit from a '92.
I worked on the wiring today...it's REALLY easy. I was really intimidated by the wiring since I have zero experience with anything like that, but I've got it all figured out and I'll have it done tomorrow. The only reason I didn't finish is because I ran out of connectors.
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Here we go with the wiring.
Day 8-9 - A few hours.
Work done: Wiring!
So basically the wiring is really really easy for this. If you know how to use wire strippers/cutters, a lighter, and understand a simple electrical circuit, that's all you need.
On a side note, to remove and install the brake switches you have to pull the plunger out about half an inch and then pull the red sleeve up so that the tabs can be pushed in to remove the switch. It took me some time to figure this out as I've never seen anything like that before.
The reverse lights are easy and a good DIY can be found on E36-tech.com, there's no need for me to post a reverse lights DIY. The reverse lights are wired in through pins 2 and 3 on the AT shifter plug.
The clutch switch - for those who want the car to start only when the clutch is engaged and want cruise control to deactivate with the clutch.
Yes, you can short pins 5 and 7 from the AT shifter plug and clip pin 25 on the cruise control module and be done with it. This DIY is for those who want their car to be closer to stock form.
1) Start by clipping pins 5 and 7 from the AT shifter plug. It's the green/grey wire and the brown/black wire. Set those aside.
2) Get the brake switch from your old pedal assembly and use a dremel to sand down the little tab that sticks out from the side. By doing this, the switch will now fit into the clutch switch hole on the pedal switch bracket.
3) Connect pins 1 and 2 of the brake switch to one wire each. I used 16 gauge white wire that I found at autozone. I'm not a wiring expert so the best way I could figure out how to do this was to use the old plug from the clutch switch I got from the new pedal assembly. I sanded down a corner on that plug and cut off one of the clips so that it would fit down into the brake switch.
4) I then spliced the two wires coming out of the clutch plug into the two 16 gauge white wires. To splice them together I used weatherproof heatshrinking butt connectors from Autozone. You just put the end of the wire into the connector and then put a lighter to it and it shrinks around the wire.
5) You now have your clutch switch ready to be installed. I wrapped mine in electrical tape to make it less conspicuous and for extra insulation.
6) Snap the brake switch into the clutch switch hole on the pedal bracket.
7) I ran the wire to the right and zip-tied it to another set of wires to keep it up and out of the way.
8) There's a slot that a bunch of wires go through on the side of the center console that I fed the wires through to get them to the shifter area.
9) With my white wires in place I stripped the green/grey and brown/black wires from pins 5 and 7 and prepared them to be connected to the white wires.
10) I clipped the extra white wire, stripped them and then used the red butt connectors to connect them to the ignition wires. I also wrapped these connections in black tape as well, just for safety.
And that's it. Simple as pie. This is for OBD1 cars of course, I don't know how to do it otherwise. It may or may not be the same.
Once you have your ignition wired up you can push the clutch in and start up your car. This should also allow cruise control to work and have it cancel out when the clutch is pushed in, but I'm not sure because the car still doesn't have a diff. We'll find out soon enough though.
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