I dropped mine off at RRT. They dropped the exhaust and unbolted the drive shaft and had it done quickly.
Soooo
Can people describe the problem that replacing the rod joint fixes? Like, what was bad, that was suddenly good again?
Reason I ask...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...4#post19231354
thanks for any assistance, sorry for minor threadjack.
try the rod joint... not very expensive and VERY easy to replace. It will definitely tighten things up as that foam goes bad and creates slop
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
My shifter was sloppy as hell due to the sponge in my selector shaft joint dissolving from my selector shaft seal leaking.
I found that plus the carrier bushing were where 95% of my slop was coming from.
I had the same trouble. I fought with it for about an hour and it finally gave out. It came out in pieces until I got down to the spring. Once I got the spring partially out it gave way. Def requires a ton a patience.
Last edited by alanilil; 04-19-2010 at 09:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I did mine (joint) 3 years ago. Took the last bit of slop the SSK+DSSR didn't take out. That damn little sponge does make a good amount of difference with before and after feel.
----Dave----
Can you elaborate specifically on what kind of slop replacing the rod joint removed? Forward-back, side-side, rotational (clockwise/counterclockwise rotation of the shifter)?
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...8&postcount=46
The 4th and 5th videos specifically I'd be interested in knowing how much play your setups have... i.e. how much they move once the gear is fully engaged, and how much you can rotate the shift lever with the shift knob removed.
thanks
john
just for my reference...plus the banter is soooo good. lol...
Just a note, BMW changed the design of the joint. You will not need the two spacer/washers. They incorporated them into the joint. When I installed the 6 speed, I had to grind off the protruding material so that the DSSR would fit over the new joint. If you don't have a DSSR, than just ignore the washers.
Yes it was a new BMW part.
No matter where you go, there you are...
You don't have to buy a whole new selector joint, you can buy the little foam sponge separately..
If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
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1998 Alpine White & 1998 Arctic Silver ///m3/4/5
JC Intake - ASC Delete - Dinan TB - Flow Matched 21.5# Injectors - JC Tune - SS Euro Reps (modified to retain SAP) - z3m ssk - Eisenmann Race 76mm - Yokohama Advan S2 - Squared LTW's - FK Silverline +X - Rogue FCAB/ RTAB/ RSM/ TM - X-Brace - CDV Delete -Racing Dynamics F&R Strut Braces - NGK BKR6E- German Castrol 0w-40
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
I'm currently stuck trying to get the seal out. Like the other guy who was having trouble, mine has come out mostly in pieces but is definitely still in there. I've been using a pick and small screwdrivers but everything only seems to push it in further.
Was thinking of trying to punch through it using a straight pick and pulling out the pieces. Any better ideas?
@M3AMI
96 BG/Magma Lux
Mods. Lots of Mods.
small craftsman flat head... stick between selector rod and seal, and push it in... then PRY it out with edge... I'll have to make a video next weekend. I have a car in the garage on jackstands with the exhaust/driveshaft out for a major overhaul.
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
I did it with that and an assortment of picks to no avail. Ran out of light so I'm done for the night. In searching though I did find that plenty of people including Randy Forbes have simply installed the new seal on top of the old one, pushing the old one back further in the bore. Being that I'm wary of damaging the bore itself at this point that's the route I was planning on taking.
Edit: I'm happy to report that I was able to get the old one out. After getting the new seal in my hands and seeing the backside as well as looking at other pics in another one of Calvin's threads I was able to pry the old one out using a 90° pick.
Last edited by Foda420; 04-23-2015 at 01:57 PM.
@M3AMI
96 BG/Magma Lux
Mods. Lots of Mods.
Never too old to update - great write up BTW - best photos ever
BMW rod joint is now around $70 from dealer, $50 elsewhere - think they combined it with another version
Foam insert inside the joint is $3.50 - trying that first.
Working on this part trying to tighten up a Bimmerworld race shifter and AKG dssr - both came in the 98 m3 I recently bought and it just seems waaaay to sloppy.
heres a video showing the slop in the BW shifter........seems excessive to me.
linky no worky.
No matter where you go, there you are...
This is an old post. I did want to bring up that I did do all of the shift bushings and the selector seal without removing the exhaust. I did have the guibo put as I was replacing that and the car was on a 2 post lift which was probably the main reason it was possible.
I removed the seal by carefully screwing a wood screw into the seal and pulling out with a strange array of vice grips and cheater pipes to get leverage. The remainder of the shift bushings were not too bad, had to move the drive shaft around but that wasn't hard considering the guibo was out.
I wished I'd used the screw method. I've been struggling with this for days. My transfer case was leaking so I replaced all of the seals in that. While I had out the exhaust and drive shafts I saw the selector rod seal was leaking. Of everything I've done this is the one that just sucks on ramps. I'm down to the spring. I'm sure I'll get it next try.
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