What did you do to your e36 today?

[Team Neverlift]

Thrifty, going with a low or ultra low temp cure powder for the centers?

[Thrifty S50]

Thrifty, going with a low or ultra low temp cure powder for the centers?

You know what, im not sure. Im not too knowledgeable in the paint department and dont even know what the differance would be. I asked the guy who im sending my hardware to about powdering the centers and he seemed expensive so idk. Still looking for coverage on that i guess. I can work wonders w/ a rattle can but i wanted to do the faces right.

Anyhoo, hit everything that i should need to break free for the rear-sub with a healthy dose of PB Blaster, and dropped the exhaust. Couldnt help getting some quick revs in without the muffler.

https://youtu.be/KRQkPJ9nItc

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Really need to fix my odo lol

[tiMASTER]

Got the Gurney strip on...
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[mslevin]

Got my euro Bosch headlights installed!

Umnitza PnP adapters. Pretty nice, wish they weren't $30something though.

Untitled by Michael Slevin, on Flickr

Old vs. New

Untitled by Michael Slevin, on Flickr

Done.

Untitled by Michael Slevin, on Flickr

I wired my city lights to my fog light switch. It works well but I'd like to find a way of wiring it without having to turn on my side markers.

Still bummed that the headlights didn't come with adapters or bulbs (which ended up costing $120 on top of the $250 for the headlights), but I really love the way they look. Wish I had done this months ago.

[tiMASTER]

I went with the non projector Euro lights. The light behind the front glass is larger diameter. They look mean. Same bulbs so no adapters needed.

I also have city lights and aim control. I plan to wire city lights to side markers and set the motors full low and aim the lights properly. Then when I'm on back roads I can dial up the high and low beams to reach further out.

[NSBFTW]

Front control arms, front control arm busings, tie rods and sway bar end links all done. Now I just need to get the car aligned because it's a little out to lunch. When driving straight, the wheel is to the left a bit.

New problem: Squeaking coming from the rear when I blip on the accelerator. When I do the push-down test on the rear, the drivers side there's a squeaking noise. Any ideas? Maybe the rear shock mount? I might be doing the rear bushings and the rest of the suspension soon as well.

[mslevin]

I went with the non projector Euro lights. The light behind the front glass is larger diameter. They look mean. Same bulbs so no adapters needed.

I also have city lights and aim control. I plan to wire city lights to side markers and set the motors full low and aim the lights properly. Then when I'm on back roads I can dial up the high and low beams to reach further out.

Mine came with aim control too, but I'm not going to hook it up.

Just finished wiring my city lights so I can turn them on without having the car on at all. Originally wired to the fog light switch, I just ran 12v to the switch from the cigarette lighter (easiest place). Normally, you have to turn the light switch so at least your side markers are on for any power to go to the fog light switch.

[tiMASTER]

I (hopefully) fixed a power steering leak. The banjo bolt was leaking, but tight. I pulled the bolt, lapped the seal washers and put it back together with fresh Mobil-1 synthetic ATF... let's see what happens.

[yeaseth]

Mounted AMB transponder, add 50 lbs ballast in the rear, put go fast decals on for Hawk and Winding Road Contingencies (+5 hp).

[Thrifty S50]

Working on dropping the rear end, and have a quick question regarding pulling the e brake cables.

They are loosened at the e brake lever, and the rubber sheath + metal tip pulled out fairly easy from the back of the arm. But the cable itself is still going into the back of the TA and wont come out.

Do i have to take off the rotor to get to the e brake stuff and actually unhook it from somwthing in there? I was under the impression that they just pulled straight out. Was hoping to drop the sub-frame without them attached so i can just leave them in place..

[LockDots]

I pulled my rear end out with the cables still attached to the trailing arms. Not sure how to remove them from there. I'd assume you have to remove the parking brake hardware.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[MParallel]

I went with the non projector Euro lights. The light behind the front glass is larger diameter. They look mean. Same bulbs so no adapters needed.

I also have city lights and aim control. I plan to wire city lights to side markers and set the motors full low and aim the lights properly. Then when I'm on back roads I can dial up the high and low beams to reach further out.

FYI: Euro non-projector units (which are the later, better ones) use H7 bulbs instead of the older H1 bulbs.

If you say you have non-projectors, but take the same H1 bulb, then you have some aftermarket unit.

Euro non-projectors, either ZKW or Bosch, both use H7 bulbs.

[Thrifty S50]

I pulled my rear end out with the cables still attached to the trailing arms. Not sure how to remove them from there. I'd assume you have to remove the parking brake hardware.

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Hmmmm. I guess i will just disassemble it before proceeding...

Anyways, i completely WRECKED my driver side rear brake hard-line; the S shaped one. Luckily, went to the junkyard today and grabbed 4 replacements, (2 left, and 2 right).



Also, saw this there.

[Bill837]

Finally did the sons 99 323ci up with the flat bungee fix. Tried to drop my motor into my 98 328ci, only to discover that I'm too close to the garage to get the lift height/angle so I'll need to take it off the stands and roll it back a foot or so.

[E36328Coupe]

Not quite today................more holes

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[E36328Coupe]

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[E36328Coupe]

£88 for new clamps ($112) - not paying that!

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[E36328Coupe]

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[MParallel]

...
Old vs. New

.

Brand new or new to you?

But what a formidable POS this DOT lights are. And they say "Made in USA" stands for something. Well yes, but...

NAL, just looked that up. Never heard of them before.

[LockDots]

And they say "Made in USA" stands for something. Well yes, but...

It used to mean quality. Now it means "make it cheaper!"

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[tiMASTER]

FYI: Euro non-projector units (which are the later, better ones) use H7 bulbs instead of the older H1 bulbs.

If you say you have non-projectors, but take the same H1 bulb, then you have some aftermarket unit.

Euro non-projectors, either ZKW or Bosch, both use H7 bulbs.

Incorrect. Very few models got these lights. I believe it was 318is and 318ti in Europe only. Six-cylinder models got the H1 bulb projector lights. These use 9006 and 9007 bulbs, same as the plastic US lights. They are BMW and even have the DOT sign cast into the glass, making them "street legal" for the USA.

[NSBFTW]

If I were to refresh my rear suspension, what do I want and what can I skip? Alternatively, what are things I should take care of while I'm in there? I was thinking of buying the ECS rear refresh kit, but do I really need to do the diff bushings? Also when I install new front and rear struts and shocks, what should I replace while in there?

Edit: What is more pertinent to do reinforce, the front or the rear on a DD? I figure while doing the rear I may as well drop it and have the plates welded in, but if I'm only DDing should I really go back and do the front as well?

[Thrifty S50]

If I were to refresh my rear suspension, what do I want and what can I skip? Alternatively, what are things I should take care of while I'm in there? I was thinking of buying the ECS rear refresh kit, but do I really need to do the diff bushings? Also when I install new front and rear struts and shocks, what should I replace while in there?

Edit: What is more pertinent to do reinforce, the front or the rear on a DD? I figure while doing the rear I may as well drop it and have the plates welded in, but if I'm only DDing should I really go back and do the front as well?

You would ideally want to do your shocks / struts and all bushings at once. But that can get costly. Most important items would be bushings; so for the rear: inner, outter, upper and lower bushings / ball joints, rear trailing arm bushings, subframe and diff bushings, and top it off with some rear shock mounts.

You would want to do, also sway bar bushings but i think thats a little lower on the totem pole. Then on to reinforcement stuff and upgraded camber arms, new shocks etc...

[tiMASTER]

I'd add the cheap and easy rear shock mount reinforcement plates as well as the strut mount reinforcement plates. For well under $50 for all of them, it's cheap insurance. Assuming you didn't already install them.

[mslevin]

Brand new or new to you?

But what a formidable POS this DOT lights are. And they say "Made in USA" stands for something. Well yes, but...

NAL, just looked that up. Never heard of them before.

New to me, but they look almost perfect unless you're up close. Minimal pitting and no scratches.