Turn the bottom nut closest to the head, not both otherwise it's acting as one long nut which does nothing.
Exactly, although we are flipping bottom and top. I am using my wrench on the one nearest the head, the one farther away is supposed to be the locker, the jam nut. Not my engine, but this pic shows what I'm doing. The one to the left is what I'm turning counterclockwise. But no matter how hard I jam them up, I just end up turning both nuts, not the stud.
why do you even need to get them out
i wouldn't risk snapping the bolt. it's a bad place for a snapped off bolt.
Installed my new steering wheel.
Untitled by Chris West, on Flickr
Untitled by Chris West, on Flickr
That's not a bad idea.
It was all original, and from a past E36 experience, I didn't want to be stranded on the side of a road here. A tow truck is insanely expensive, and if you dare leave your car parked overnight on some of these roads...it'll be set on fire. I know that seems like an exaggeration, but it happens a lot. Maui is an interesting place.
And because I really enjoy working on this thing. A "well while I'm in there I might as well..." type of situation.
Found out my front end needs a major overhaul. Took it to the local shop and what I thought was just sway bar end links turned out to be control arms, links, bushings, tie rods, etc. Obviously, I'll be having the work done asap. My only questions if anyone has any ideas for OEM plus upgrades during this overhaul? That and if poly Powerflex bushings are worth it, or too harsh for a spirited daily driver? I'll probably do the struts springs while I'm at it.
I assume you are speaking about the Front Control Arm Bushings (FCAB)? Yes, poly FCAB bushings are quite nice & add necessary feedback for the driver, but anything will be an upgrade over the Non-M OE bushings, even M3 solid or offset bushings. Offset bushings add positive caster for Non-M cars, which strengthens the on center feel, and weight to the steering wheel.
Ready for bodywork repair...
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Yes, I am, and no, i didn't know that before. I've been searching for a good DIY on this, and I've found *some* material to work with, but nothing super concrete. So it's been a process of trial and error lol
I've made it to E46 330i ZHP arms (?), all I need is a bushing solution. I've been looking at AKG's offerings, they should work perfectly. I would kinda prefer something more OEM, though, just for availability and simplicity. But oh well lol
BMW 1995 E36 M3 Luxury Pkg. (Bostongruen Metallic 275)
BMW 1999 E36 323is Sport Pkg. (Orientblau Metallic 317)
iSociety
Any input as far as 235/40/17 vs 225/45/17 on a 17x8 Et40 Rim? I've ran 235/45/17 supersports before and enjoyed it, but I can save quite a substantial amount of money if I go 225/45/17 instead of 235/40/17. I'm talking savings of $225- 445. Any thoughts for a spirited daily driver that will be aligned to the street specs in "The Definitive Suspension Guide for your E36 M3" thread. As of now I have stock suspension, but may run coil overs or Eibach springs in the future. I can make a thread, but I've found tons of info about going either way.
205 is more than enough tire for cornering @ 120+mph in an e36 (spece36 do it). I track my car on 225s now, & have never said I need more tire. 225 will be fine, much better option than 235.
Now as for the theory behind it all, the wheel width determines the width of the tires contact patch with the pavement, not the tire width. More tire width + same size wheel = less responsive & sloppier sidewall, less lateral grip.
Left 205/50/15 x 7.0"
Middle 205/50/18 x 8"
Right 205/50/15 x 6.5"
Excellent, thank you for the quick response and picture! You feel that the 225/45 is a good match for a 17x8 on a daily driver? Obviously running a thinner tire will have less sidewall flex, as you stated, but I'm not looking to compromise comfort. I'm looking for the perfect match of performance, comfort and looks. I realize the three are mutually exclusive, but I'd like to see what options I have if I'll be aligning the car with the following specifications for daily and occasional spirited driving:
Front
- Camber: -2.0 to 2.5 deg (per side)
- Toe: 0.10 total toe (or 0.10 to 0.20 deg total toe in for mostly highway driving)
Rear
- Camber: -1.5 to -2 deg (per side)
- Toe: 0.20 total toe in (IIRC this is 1/8" total toe in)
My only concern is if I'm not driving the car hard, all the time, can I really take advantage of those camber settings as a daily driver or will I just shorten the life of my tires? Those specifications were recommended for the street, and he did specify that toe causes premature wear more than camber. Maybe, I can go for the more conservative -2.0 front and -1.5 rear?
Sources:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-your-E36-M3
Look at it this way, simple math states 205mm is 8". 225 will hit all 3 marks for you, or as close as you can get to all 3. Less is more in this instance. More is not only heavier, but costs more. Lose / lose situation.
Camber will not cause nearly as much tire wear as toe will. There is no reason to have any toe.
I ran -2.5 front & -2.0 rear for a long time, had no issues with tire wear. Your -2f, -1.5r will be good.
0.10°
Thanks again for your patience! I was just taken back, because everything I've read up tot his point had lead me to believe that 205/50 on a 17x8 was a stance set up, and stanced cars are not known for their performance handling abilities or comfort. Looks like I'll be getting something in the 205-225 range and saving some change.
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