Thread: What did you do to your e36 today?

  1. #14776
    mslevin's Avatar
    mslevin is offline Have you checked RealOEM? BMW CCA Member
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    Rebuilt my gauge pod setup using an OEM stereo delete panel. Probably the cheapest LTW part you can buy, only $5 each.

    Also installed the correct temp sensor in the head, ordered the wrong one before so the gauge wasn't reading properly.

    And yes, the gauge is clocked to the right. I like normal operating temp to be right around vertical.


  2. #14777
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    1998 E36 323is
    Any experience with ST struts? Not the coilovers, but I'm looking at the ST SUSPENSIONS 47021 as they seem affordable and are meant for lowering springs. The pricing is much more affordable than Konis in Canada.

  3. #14778
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    1995 BMW M3 Boston Green
    Currently fighting an E46 M3 front control arm swap onto my E36 M3, so I did a mild brake upgrade instead. Hawk pads and Stoptech slotted rotors. Haven't driven on them yet, but I'm excited to!

  4. #14779
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    Quote Originally Posted by King Hax View Post
    Currently fighting an E46 M3 front control arm swap onto my E36 M3, so I did a mild brake upgrade instead. Hawk pads and Stoptech slotted rotors. Haven't driven on them yet, but I'm excited to!
    Aren't you supposed to use non-M arms?

  5. #14780
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockDots View Post

    Aren't you supposed to use non-M arms?
    Thats what i was thinking... im assuming its for extra angle on your drift machine?

  6. #14781
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    Turbo E36, V8 E39
    Finally finished my wheel refinish. I found a set of z3 style 19 fronts 17x7.5 et 41 for $100, then a couple months later found a set of e39 style 5s, 17x8 et 20 with 2 wheels bandly bent for $100. So i decided to make a staggered set. At first i was going to use the style 5 faces, but decided to do style 19s instead. Style 5s are everywhere.

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  7. #14782
    MINIz guy's Avatar
    MINIz guy is offline #buttstuff2k14 BMW CCA Member
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    rolls coal


    This is how a GC camber plate fits a Stance coilover. Not the greatest but it does work


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  8. #14783
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    Finished putting her back together and got her on the ground. Just need to bring it to a shop now for some exhaust work and an alignment.

    Loving the Koni/Eiback drop. About a half inch of wheel gap all around. This is also mostly unsettled. Wasn't able to pull it out of the garage just yet. Only rolled it back and forth a few feet a few times.

    Your move MINIz


  9. #14784
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  10. #14785
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thrifty S50 View Post
    Finally throwing this on
    Didnt get to finish. Couple things interupted install. Was going over my gasket list and noticed i only had 5 intake manifold gaskets, but the order from FCP confirmed 6. Not sure if i lost it or they only packed 5, but 17$ later and an hour round trip to bmw mckenna, i had the 6th. Throttle body removal wad easy, injectors/rail came out easy. Noticed that all my injectors were pink top EXCEPT the one closest to the firewall? Not sure what that means.. the 7th intake manifold nut was a complete pita to reach. Luckily i had some swivel extensions. I was progressing slowly but i was pretty much going into this blind, just refering to the "rmeuropean" diy here and there and making sure everything was properly organized for when it all goes back together.
    I did tear one hose while trying to pull tje manifold, the one that goes to this :



    But it was pretty brittle and already deteriorating. Anyone know what that line would be? Its the one that goes to that nipple in the picture above and has a T-Junction on the other end.

    I didnt realize it was plugged into the bottom of the manifold here (hose to the right of the red positive cable) This is another line that goes to that T - Junction



    This is where i stopped as the hose is on there pretty good, 20 years of grime will do that i suppose, and i didnt want to break anything else. Also figured it was better to leave the manifold seated so i didnt leave anything exposed.

    It was getting dark so i decided to pack up. The ICV and oil separator are all un bolted so once i can pull this hose i can then just pull the manifold and bolt on the m50 manifold. Im thinking i should order all new vaccuum lines as they have all aged, and it shows. So far i dont think this swap is that "difficult" but its tedious and time-consuming; for me at least.

    Snapped a pic of where the manifold/injectors meet the valves or whatever and i will definately have some cleaning to do



    Also reading further down the DIY it says i will need a modified m50 manifold support bracket? I wasn't aware of this, i thought that other than the vaccuum line-adapter this was basically a straight "bolt on". Can anyone shed some light on this??? Thanks!!!

  11. #14786
    MINIz guy's Avatar
    MINIz guy is offline #buttstuff2k14 BMW CCA Member
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    Went for a drive. Needs an alignment though


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  12. #14787
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    [IMG][/IMG]

    Wish FCP Euros cowl replacement kit had included the wide black press ons, which cost ame a few days getting this on, but man, what a difference. Today is getting the exhaust manifold studs out, cooking them in the crock pot with Simple Green, then running the over the brass wire wheel to get as much crud as possible off. Only two left in the block, so I'll have to double nut those and hit them with the torch and hope they will come free.
    Last edited by Bill837; 05-28-2017 at 02:24 PM.

  13. #14788
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockDots View Post
    Finished putting her back together and got her on the ground. Just need to bring it to a shop now for some exhaust work and an alignment.

    Loving the Koni/Eiback drop. About a half inch of wheel gap all around. This is also mostly unsettled. Wasn't able to pull it out of the garage just yet. Only rolled it back and forth a few feet a few times.

    Your move MINIz

    I need to do the eibach and koni suspension upgrade. I'm currently on tein springs and Sachs super touring struts/shocks, my suspension handles like complete dog crap.


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  14. #14789
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    Quote Originally Posted by NSBFTW View Post
    So I looked under the car today and noticed some tears in the front sway bar end links. Could this be causing the creaking noises?

    Also, any Canadians have experience ordering from ECS or Pelican? I've only ordered from Turner in the past and was absolutely slaughtered on brokerage fees ($300) and am looking to avoid that with the other vendors.
    Just order from fcpeuro, I live in Edmonton and order from them all the time.

    Use UPS world wide expedited and they wave the brokerage fee, all you pay is duties. It's also 3 day shipping which is great. Also fcp UPS shipping rate is the best I've found money wise.

    Once I used there usps option and it took 3 weeks to arrive and I payed duties as well.




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  15. #14790
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill837 View Post
    [/URL][/IMG]

    Wish FCP Euros cowl replacement kit had included the wide black press ons, which cost ame a few days getting this on, but man, what a difference. Today is getting the exhaust manifold studs out, cooking them in the crock pot with Simple Green, then running the over the brass wire wheel to get as much crud as possible off. Only two left in the block, so I'll have to double nut those and hit them with the torch and hope they will come free.
    Nice, ive been wanting to replace my windshield cowl forever! Makes such a big difference visually. Anyway, picking up where i left off on my manifold swap..

  16. #14791
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitch500 View Post
    I need to do the eibach and koni suspension upgrade. I'm currently on tein springs and Sachs super touring struts/shocks, my suspension handles like complete dog crap.


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    I have yet to really get on it due to needing an alignment, bt so far at the softest setting it feels just like new OE suspension with a moderate drop.


  17. #14792
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    Started a color change on my wheels, I polished the lip and painted the rest black on my one piece style 42s a few years ago. I decided it was too much black and went with the Rustoleum graphite. My attempt at using stripper on the first one was just short of a disaster, no proper way to apply it and it didn't come off very well. I blasted it till I ran out of sand and hoped primer and wet sanding would help. It did to a certain extent, if you stay far enough away. The second one I just cleaned and painted, a few fish eyes but much better than the first one. BeforeWIN_20170526_094752.JPG

    First one in primer.
    WIN_20170526_121437.JPG
    Painted and on the car
    WIN_20170527_105758.JPG
    Second one.
    WIN_20170527_143800.JPG
    And on.
    WIN_20170528_111841.JPG
    Last edited by jmo69; 05-28-2017 at 10:37 PM.

    Gave away my BMWs, driving a VW and an Audi now.

  18. #14793
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    Swapped 3.38 LSD in for 2.93. What a difference! Overlooking the desire for 6th gear for highway cruising this swap was well worth it. Much more pep for city driving, revs up quick to put you in power band and complements aftermarket exhaust, M50 intake, and of course SC extremely well.
    Last edited by verobeach97; 05-28-2017 at 08:58 PM.
    m50 mani / AA c38-81 stage 2 / 12psi / AEM progressive w/m kit / stg3 SB endurance clutch + SS / 3.38 LSD / cdv + asc delete / stromung catback + cat delete / ebay coilovers + GC RSMs / square CSL wheels / ski-pass 8" sub


  19. #14794
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    2011 335xi
    Did an overhaul on the cooling system. Replaced the radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat, housing (to an aluminum), and water pump. Didn't bother with the expansion tank, as I came to the conclusion over the weekend I want to sell this thing and just get an M3. If it cracks before then I'll replace it at that point.

  20. #14795
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    Why do an overhaul then instead of replacing just what's needed?

  21. #14796
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    1998 318i
    Installed some smoked fog lights. Cant seem to figure out why one fog light is dimmer than the other







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  22. #14797
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    finally replaced aux fan so the A/C can cool a little better when in heavy traffic.

    i honestly never been in a car that gets hotter in the sun than a black e36 coupe. i sometimes want to throw out the leather seats. and it's not even really summer yet.

  23. #14798
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    Double nutting not working, just keeps working the double off that end. Maybe a washer between them?

  24. #14799
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    why should a washer help

    just align them both so you can get a long nut over both then both have to turn and it will be more likely for the bolt to come out

  25. #14800
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    Flanged, so no way to get a socket over both, unless I maybe grind the flange off of one. No idea why a washer might help, grasping at straws here. Never seen this technique not work. Cranked them together pretty tight, but backing it out using the "top" nut, both are moving. Thinking the soft copper might not be up to these loads.

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