New rear shocks. No more floaty-boaty feel!
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
SpeedHunters feature: http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/...t-dtm-tribute/
APEX feature: https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/m...-arc-8-wheels/
Inching towards getting my car back together. Still waiting on my T-stat gasket to arrive before i button up the Cooling System (should be delivered today so fingers crossed). Mounted the Fan to the rad in the meantime, getting excited, Engine bay will be looking nice, Toying with the idea of deleting my windshield washer Reservoir as ive never used them (Nozzles have been plugged for the last 8 years lol).
^^ TFTI lol
Come over tomorrow and help me wire in the Fan and/or put on my BC's
Nice! Sucha great feeling when you have everything needed.
Well i got the Radiator and fan mounted onto the car, with the Coolant Rez mounted to the Fan, then put it all back together and turned her on (yeahhh baby) and ran the system with distilled water, to check for any leaks. None to report! Although the Coolant res didnt seem to be sucking any water down, system definitely lost a good mount of liquid when pulling everything off.. Also added one of those fancy Brass Bleeder screws.
BUT, i still need to wire in the fan. The Mishi kit calls for the relay to be tapped into the Firewall, i dont really dig that but oh well
Does anyone know a 12v Ignition source i can tap into from the Fuse Box? I got one of those Bussman "Add-a-circuit" (pictured Below) to make things simple as i dont like "splicing", But i cant decide on which Fuse to tap into for Ignition power.
I was thinking Radio or something but doesnt Acc run after the car is off for a bit? This would cause my fan to remain on and drain the battery, so i need something that turns off with the ignition.
Any recommendations?!
Thanks Gents.
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 01-18-2018 at 01:42 AM.
A metric shit ton of upgrades were done to the car (+15whp?) this week, and the shop who always does this kind of work for me graciously offered to install a set of double adjustable dampers prior to the alignment that was scheduled today, to use in competition for the year.
Really looking forward to comparing my basic spring & damper setup to the next echelon, a quality, double adjustable, twin tube coilover setup. I was already taking the points for them, might as have the real thing. #recordswillfall
The 3.73 is on the FedEx truck, should be in the car tonight.
Fired it up this morning as I was going to drive it for the first time in a week. Fired right up (yay), but check control warned of low coolant (not yay).
I had topped up when I first started using my heat a couple months ago and didn't really think much of it since I last did coolant work two years ago. But now again this quickly, and after only maybe 1,000 miles. I haven't noticed any leaks, no smells, and I changed the oil right around when I first needed to top up with no signs of it in the oil. And then did the oil filter housing gasket shortly after that, again no signs.
I didn't actually check the level, just took the backup car, so here's hoping it's just the sensor. I have been getting a loud belt squeal right on start-up but it's been in the teens and below for a few weeks so I chalked it up to old belt and really cold. But wouldn't surprise me if coolant was making it's way on to the belt, maybe expansion tank cap is bad.
At least it'll be in the 40s this weekend so I can take a look.
I looked at both of mine, looked at the snow, cried a bit, but then it froze to my face.
#Illinoiswintersuck (I'm a huge fan of winter, but only when there are hills nearbye).
KW v3 w/ Vorshlag camber plates... probably gonna bump the rear to linears once I feel it out this weekend @ SoW
.... and pretty much everything else that was left, except SAP delete & OBD1 conversion.... just need the m52 to last 1 more year so I doubt I will ever do those....
As soon as Zohaibrose finds out how much those V3's are he is gonna have a fit.
Silly question, what does going to OBDI do that allows you to make more power?
Some people swear by the simplicity of the OBD1 systems and computers. I don't believe they do actually make any more power over OBD2. This may just be legacy or now dated talking points before OBD2 tuning was fully understood, and no one has bothered to correct these misconceptions in a clear and concise way. I have found this to be the case with many things inside the BMW community, and the e36 platform.
Woohoo Got the Fan wired up! This thing BLOWS. It was pretty easy, I used the ground under the Intake by the Cruise Control
Then used the Positive Jump terminal near the Secondary Air pump
Tapped into Fuse 14 for the "Window Lift Front"
Used the "Add a circuit" so it was pretty easy. I tried to get it into some other Ports but Fuse 14 had the best location.
Bottom Fuse is the 30 amp for the actual Fuse 14, the Fuse on top is a 25 amp ( i believe) for the Fan circuit.
Routed it out of the side and drilled a small hole into the Fuse Box to route it out
Going to go back tomorrow and try to clean up the wiring, and solder the connections as i dont like the Butt connectors (too loose).
The fan controller is set up at the lowest temp, 150F, and goes up to 240F, not sure what is optimal but ill mess with it. It kicks on when hot and turns off when cooled down so im stoked. My one quarrel is that the Temp "probe" that is supposed to sit between the radiator fins, doesnt really seat properly. I pulled it out a few times and had to try and find a better spot without luck. I dont think it will be very secure while driving unless i use something to adhere it a bit.
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 01-19-2018 at 01:54 AM.
Where did you buy that Bussman "Add a circuit" adapter, local or online? And I think that the fan being able to run for a short time after the car is turned off is probably a good thing.
I got the NPT sensor instead of the probe and the Mishi inline NPT adapter, I did some digging on the probe VS. NPT and it appeared that the NPT was the best option.
I got the "add a circuit" at my local autozone, it was like 6 bucks! Its made by Bussman so should be available almost anywhere that had a fuse selection.
----- EDIT -----
You will need both Fuses in place for the fan to get power. Again the Bottom Fuse will complete the Circuit for whatever Fuse port your tapping into, and the Top Fuse will complete the Circuit for the Fan. Got kind of hung up on this for a bit wondering why the fan wasnt getting power, so hopefully that saves ya'll some time. The fan cannot exceed 25 amps.
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 01-19-2018 at 10:36 AM.
Drove it to work and opened the door and my door panel fell flat on its face, the upper part is still connected at the top and it was hanging by speaker wire. I think I'm just gonna pull the panels off, throw away the junk speakers and run MKAH panels with no cut outs.
How does buytl tape sound for a moisture barrier?
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Reinstalled OEM brake cooling ducts after running without them for the past 4 years along with reinstalling my fog light deletes after the passenger side delete flew off a month ago.
Last edited by AdrianE36; 01-19-2018 at 02:49 PM.
E36 328iS- Sold :(
E92 328i 6MT- Work In Progress
"If you have to fight the urge to look back at your car as you walk away, you bought the right car."
///
3.5 mil plastic and Aluminum Air Duct tape from Home Depot works well for a replacement moisture barrier.
- - - Updated - - -
Thanks Thrifty, not sure I will go with that particular circuit, but your posts will definitely help. I wonder if they make a plastic nipple type pass through that you could install in the fuse box wall that wire conduit could be attached to?
Well I think I found the leak. Not much but there's that little bead of coolant by the t-stat housing. Pretty ironic because I've made multiple posts about the aluminum housing not needing any rtv help the last couple weeks.
I'll double check the torque tomorrow. Then probably just keep topping up until spring. I'm due for a coolant flush so was planning on replacing some coolant parts while I was at it.
Sent from the dark side of the Moon
No worries! Thats why were all here right?
I was wondering about the same thing, but i just decided to drill the Hole a size smaller than the wire gauge, it is pretty taught now so i am not too worried, additionally the Fuse box overhangs a bit (downwards) so it applies some additional pressure on the wire.
If i could add one more thing about the whole mishi set up, i am not too pleased with the "loose Fitting-ness" of using the Stock Reservoir mounted to the fan. There is some definite play, and under heavy driving the res WILL shake. I plan on RTV'ing a rubber grommet or something between the Rez and fan "shroud" to counter the shake, But you can see in the below picture i tried to offset the fitting with some additional PTFE tape to secure the Bleeder screw into its Fitting.
38856844385_ab2e67327f_c.jpg
This system does not allow the use of the OEM Plastic piece that would typically surround the Bleeder screw, keeping the whole reservoir "secure".
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